maybe368

I asked this question once before, but I cannot seem to find it so here goes again. Has anyone had FIRSTHAND knowledge of anyone having problems with running 100% antifreeze. I don't want what your cousin told you, just FIRSTHAND. The last time I asked this, the only member that said they had was a member in Alaska that had a customer with heater problems in 60 below temps. So, have at it, let's hear about all these catastrophic failures...Mark

93flatbed

Give it up mark. If it works for you then great, but don't try to start bull chips over nothing. I've done it, no ill effects, it was 100% by mistake, only reason I went back to a 50/50 mix was cost. Good luck with your war.

maybe368

Thanks, but that is your opinion, I have attacked nobody in this, so I will not be blamed for others attacking me. I find that most commonly accepted facts are not facts they are just commonly accepted. So if you are tired of it, I would suggest that you ignore it...Mark

patdaly

The ONLY thing I am aware of is the temperature protection actually goes down after 70-30 mix if I remember correctly. I believe it runs to about -84 at 70/30.

Other than that, I don't know of anything.

Buddy Stewert

I was told it will be like insulation
at 100 percent and not pull the heat out.
What are you wanting to prove with doing that.

maybe368

That the temp is a non-factor in my experience and that the water is what causes all the problems. Also the question of this thread is ACTUAL, PERSONAL experience of failure caused by not adding water...Mark

1972RedNeck

I would like to know also. The reason I run 50/50 is because water is free.

user name

Well your previous posts got me curious so I did a some research. I have never posted in any of the other threads you've made comments in. I have never run pure antifreeze because it seems like a waste of money to me. The short answer pure water cools better but freezes and doesn't have corrosion protection.

Tap water does have minerals that are damaging. If you can't get quality water maybe 100% antifreeze is a decent way to go.

The other thing that can affect cooling is flow rate. Thicker mixtures flow slower and will spend longer in each place, this can allow for better heat transfer/cooling. Take the thermostat out of a small block chevy in a car (smaller rad) and it will overheat, put a restrictor with a hole the same size as the thermostat opening and it slows the fluid down and it doesn't ever really warm up. Slow it down to much and you overheat again. It's all about balance. The fluid system in these trucks looks pretty wide open to me maybe the thicker antifreeze does a better job.





As the concentration of glycol in the solution increases, the thermal performance of the heat transfer fluid decreases. Therefore, it is best to use the lowest possible concentration of inhibited glycol necessary to meet your corrosion and freeze protection needs. Dow Chemical recommends a minimum concentration of 25-30% EGW4. At this minimum concentration, the ethylene glycol also serves as a bacteriacide and fungicide. With recirculating chillers, a solution of 30% ethylene glycol will result in only about a 3% drop in thermal performance over using water alone but will provide corrosion protection as well as freeze protection down to -15°C (5°F).

From this source http://www.lytron.com/Tools-and-Tech...Liquid-Cooling

Tips for Proper Operation
• Use purified water (distilled, de-ionized) for
dilution
• Install and maintain “correct” glycol concentration
– Over-dilution  causes corrosion & bio-fouling
– Too concentrated  causes poor heat transfer
• Operate within recommended temperature ranges
– Over-heating  compromises fluid life
• Test your fluid regularly
– Good fluid maintenance helps prolong the life of your
system

and this is decent on the subject from respectable source. http://www.dow.com/heattrans/pdfs/Di...ngTheMyths.pdf


If it works for you great. Other than cost it shouldn't really cause much in the way of issues unless your overheating. But why invite people to try to disprove you?

maybe368

Because everyone that reacts to this has some google information or msds or something and they do not have any EXPERIENCE with it. I personally like the truth, regardless whether it is against me or not. I am not going to change and I don't expect others to, but I think we should have facts, not hearsay or speculation. I guess if one is going to attack what I say, I expect them to have facts. Maybe it's a character flaw...Mark

crazzywolfie

i have read that over time coolant becomes acidic and can start eating away at your coolant system. i would guess the water would help dilute that acidic effects and prevent you from having to change the coolant as often.

maybe368

Again, that is great, but is not personal experience...Mark PS the coolant in my truck was put in there in around 2007...

crazzywolfie

sounds like someone needs to get some coolant tested.

maybe368

Still working fine, I am also running some 7 year old diesel, without problems and my 15000 mile Mobile 1 is also from around 2007...but I digress, still looking for experience...Mark

NJTman

Mark,

Are you actually using test strips to determine acidity ? If so, which ones, and what range are you finding your coolant to be in ?

dieselJon

You make it seem like MSDS are wrong, untested, and un-informative.