Nuclear headlights
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Nuclear headlights
I got my 160/90w headlights (normal are 65/55w) from England, put one of then in (after converting the watts to amps to make sure I wasn't over 30 amps) and my headlight relay smoked immedietly!!!!
I guess I am going to put in "74 Dodge truck starter relays...
Going to have to be extra careful not to bar-b-q peoples retinas in front of me.
I guess I am going to put in "74 Dodge truck starter relays...
Going to have to be extra careful not to bar-b-q peoples retinas in front of me.
#4
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#8
1st Generation Admin
While they certainly sound intriguing, the first thing that popped into my head was ~ "Toasted OEM Bulb Connectors".
The voices in my head aren't in full agreement as to how to address that. They are however nodding to making sure the bulb's electrical tabs and the wiring connector's themselves are clean and not corroded or overheated (blued). A little DeOx (corrosion inhibitor/see your drinking buddy the electrician) coating will help keep them in better shape.
I would set up the relays such that you've got one per bulb. That should afford you some cooler relay contacts.
I bet Jim Lane could shed some better illumination on the matter.
The voices in my head aren't in full agreement as to how to address that. They are however nodding to making sure the bulb's electrical tabs and the wiring connector's themselves are clean and not corroded or overheated (blued). A little DeOx (corrosion inhibitor/see your drinking buddy the electrician) coating will help keep them in better shape.
I would set up the relays such that you've got one per bulb. That should afford you some cooler relay contacts.
I bet Jim Lane could shed some better illumination on the matter.
#11
Registered User
raggman is right - a starter soleniod will fry in one or two headlight on cycles. You will need a continous duty solenoid. Don't count or your parts house to get you a continous duty soleniod use known p/ns. You can also get higher rated relays on line. I am currently running GE Nighthawk 9003 Halogens which are just a shade over legal but with both lights the same I don't have a problem. They give a nice bright light especially with a relay rewiring. I also converted my truck to accept these lights. In addition I am 100% LED in all other lights including my trailer. This gives me better lighting plus less of a load on my headlight switch.
Bob
Bob
#12
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Thread Starter
raggman is right - a starter soleniod will fry in one or two headlight on cycles. You will need a continous duty solenoid. Don't count or your parts house to get you a continous duty soleniod use known p/ns. You can also get higher rated relays on line. I am currently running GE Nighthawk 9003 Halogens which are just a shade over legal but with both lights the same I don't have a problem. They give a nice bright light especially with a relay rewiring. I also converted my truck to accept these lights. In addition I am 100% LED in all other lights including my trailer. This gives me better lighting plus less of a load on my headlight switch.
Bob
Bob
Bob, what is your source for your LED's?
Here is a link to the site:
http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/pro...0&cat=0&page=1
#13
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#14
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