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Noise from transfer case?

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Old 12-06-2006 | 03:13 PM
  #16  
woodrat's Avatar
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From: Skamokawa, Washington
Sachs 12" ? I keep reading about how 12" clutches won't stay together in the hub... is there a sachs 13"? Would I need a new flywheel? Where do you find the sachs clutch online?

Thanks
Old 12-06-2006 | 03:38 PM
  #17  
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The Sachs is a 13".

Here's one from an Ebay store:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/89-93...QQcmdZViewItem

SBC sells the Sachs also.
Old 12-06-2006 | 04:23 PM
  #18  
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I got my stock sach's 13inch clutch from SBC, best price I could find anywhere.

In my dad's truck we put a stock 12inch clutch from a 2nd gen on the 1st gen flywheel. The bolt pattern is the same from the 2nd gen 12inch clutch as the 1st gen 13inch clutch.
Old 12-06-2006 | 05:02 PM
  #19  
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WEll, now that I've gone off on this tangent about a clutch, I'm starting to doubt that is really what's wrong. These noises are so hard to locate! I just spent about 45 minutes crawling around under there with a screwdriver, listening everywhere and rotating the output shaft and trying different gears and positions in the t case. I can't really tell for sure what is going on. There is some amount of "normal" play in the tranny and the t case, and then there is an extra chunk of play SOMEWHERE in there that I can't feel all the time and takes a pretty hard rotation of the output shaft to happen. But it is definitely there and above and beyond the normal slack that you would expect. That is probably what is making my intermittent noise.

I think I am going to start by pulling the t case and looking at that coupler first, and scope out the t case more closely. I'll save the clutch for last...

I did find the old clutch that came out when I had the tranny replaced and it is a 13" clutch.

Any good reason to replace the aluminum housing that goes around the coupler with a new cast iron one?
Old 12-07-2006 | 02:11 AM
  #20  
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From: Silycon Valley
I would doubt the NV4500 tail housing could cause the clunking issues. I can remember evers seeing a cast iron one either.

another theory to the clunking problem is to just turn up the stereo louder so you cant hear it. When the problem gets worse it will be easier to find, and the repair cost usually stays the same.

I have never had it done, but i have heard of clutch rebuilding. The stock sachs clutch is probably a good candidate for this. I have a few friends that have had clutches rebuilt and they work well.

That sachs clutch is incredibly heavy. Probably 2x the weight of the replacement clutch i was sold when i did my 4500 conversion. If i knew how much better the sachs clutch was before i got the replacement i would have rebuilt it, but the sachs was beat and i was holding a new one.

i kept my sachs for rebuilding for the next time around. I have already put 90k miles on my rig since that last conversion. The time is likely approaching.

i thought that the 205s in the first gens had the same female 32spline 6 bolt interface as NP241, 242 Dana 300 ect? I totally dont remember that coupler. I must be loosing my mind. Oh well i guess the coupler makes it fit the common 32 spline standard.
Old 12-07-2006 | 10:58 AM
  #21  
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From: Skamokawa, Washington
I had the tranny shop install this, so I'm unsure about the coupler too, but I would sure rather have a coupler that gets worn out than a mainshaft of the tranny or t case.

the cast iron extension housing is an aftermarket thing, from Standard Transmission. I thought that if there was some weakness inherent in the aluminum one, I would buy the iron one while I had it apart.

I still have my old stock clutch, I suppose I could have it rebuilt, I hadn't thought about that...
Old 12-07-2006 | 03:19 PM
  #22  
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From: Northern KS
The 205 in the manual trucks is a male 29 spline.
The G360 and NV4500 also have a male 29 spline.
The TF727 and such have a 23 spline.

quad4x4.com has coupler sleeves on their site available.
Old 12-08-2006 | 12:11 AM
  #23  
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From: Skamokawa, Washington
"When the problem gets worse it will be easier to find, and the repair cost usually stays the same."


Actually, when you add in the $260 tow bill because you were towing a trailer when the trans coupler blew, well, then it actually would be cheaper to fix it first...



Speaking purely hypothetically of course....

I guess I will find out tomorrow whether it was the coupler or not after i tear it apart. I certainly won't be driving it anywhere.
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