devildog5001

I have a power problem! I'm only seeing 16psi and 1100 deg max temp WOT. I have the full fuel screw (lock collar off) turned in as far as it seemed to go, bottomed out then back 1/4 turn? Starwheel is all the way down, smoke screw is in 2 turns, timing up some... New HTT stage/3-16cm.

I recently put in the bully dog fuel pin and 3200 spring at the same time (before the new HTT stage/3 turbo) and had to back off everything- full fuel, starwheel, smoke screw... because I had way to much fuel. I drove around the block and went right back home because I had so much fuel.

Now with the new turbo installed I can't seem to get enough fuel or boost. After I installed the turbo I slowly turned everything back up with almost no change. I put in a new fuel pump, didn’t have much resistance at the pump lever, no help. It wont even huff a little black smoke, just a little white haze when it's cold at idle. The injectors are newer and stock size. It's also been a rascal to start these days if that means anything, while the grid heaters/KSB are working fine. It just cranks forever when cold then finally starts with a ton of smoke/fuel to fallow. Starts great when warmed up. Any ideas? Shouldn’t I be able to make 25lbs of boost or so with my current set up?

wannadiesel

Sounds like a fuel supply problem. Change the fuel filter first. Check the fuel pressure, or just throw a lift pump at it. If you were making 25 psi before you ought to be close to that even with the new turbo.

devildog5001

Thanks Dave. I started with the lift pump, no luck. I put gauges on with the new turbo, so I don't know what I was making before the turbo swap. Makes it hard to trouble shoot when you throw everything on a stock truck in two weeks! I just kept everything turned down low and drove conservative until I put the gauges/turbo on and then gave it hell. I did a fuel filter 500 miles ago around the time I replaced the fuel pin, that is a great idea, I'll put another one today and see what happens. You the man.

bgilbert

Check all your intercooler boots and make sure they are tight and not leaking. Same with the cast elbow that comes off the turbo to the IC pipe. No leaks at your boost fitting on the head and at the gauge? You get that afc metal tube on snug when you put the pump's head back on?

You can make a pressure/leak tester with a 4" plumber's cab, 4" hose clamp on it over the turbo inlet, a tire/schraeder valve, 2" tire patch and supply compressed air to the system. Use soapy water in a spray bottle, spray on IC connections, IC, afc tube, boost fitting, 10mm bolts in the intake manifold cover to check for leaks.

devildog5001

bgilbert, thanks for the ideas, I'm heading back out to the garage (just happen to have a 4" cap) to do some tests. I figure I'll pressure test from the tank to the lift pump too. I just got back from the auto store and my fuel filter change that had no effect. It's weird, there is no difference when I make adjustments to the full fuel screw. You would think if I wasn't making boost pressure it would still make black smoke from additional fuel. Anything else that could cause a fuel pressure problem up to the pump or within the pump that I can check. Maybe I need a fuel pressure gauge between the lift pump and the IP just to be sure, although the lift pump is new, what do you guys think. Thanks for your help.

bgilbert

Everyone should have a tapped banjo bolt from www.genosgarage.com on their pickup. Plug it with a 1/8" pipe plug. Test fuel pressure whenever you want. All that is needed is any pressure gauge, preferably an old 30psi boost gauge, a boost tubing kit and the tapped banjo bolt. The fuel pressure gauge doesn't need to be permanent. You can just use it as a troubleshooting tool when needed.

torquefan

If it's not making boost, or the boost is leaking somewhere, the aneroid will decrease the fuel sent to the injectors. The aneroid line is a short line connected between the intake and the top of the injector pump. Make sure it's connected and not leaking boost pressure, or full fueling will not occur.

devildog5001

OK, I've tested every line and fitting I can think of and nothing, everything looks good. I think I'll just remove the banjo bolt, drill and tap it for a 1/8" pipe thread fitting. I have a 30 lb gauge on my acetylene tank I can use to see what's up with my fuel pressure today. Who knows with the replacement parts today, the new pump from Checker I just put on might be junk. Thanks for all your idea's. It's off to Home Depot for some pipe fittings!

devildog5001

I replaced the cheep lift pump with a Cummins original and still not much power/boost. I took out my full fuel screw to make sure the threads were clean to prevent me from going in as much as possible. It still feels like it bottoms out with about 3/8" thread showing behind the lock nut, without really cranking on it but applying firm pressure. Does that sound about right for the fuel screw that's maxed out? It doesn’t act like it's near runaway either, although this is something I've only read about, the RPM's drop right back down after I rev it up a little. Could I have put something in wrong when I did the 3200 RPM spring? At 15 lbs of boost, fuel pin, 3200 spring, starwheel bottomed, and full fuel it feels marginally better than stock.

Pressure checked intake, no leaks but it doesn’t hold pressure either, sounds like it leaks into the motor, past the valves I assume. Correct?

Aneroid is tight, no leaks.
New fuel filter and lift pump.
No leaks from the tank to lift pump.

Thanks for everyone's input!!

rlyons

Did you pay close attention to the index marks on the throttle linkage? If it is a little off it could cause what you are seeing. You do need more fuel for sure. Maybe time for some bigger injectors. Is your turbo wastegated?

G1625S

When you put in the 3200 spring, did you have to crank the idle screw way up to get it to idle? That would indicate the throttle index being off. Just a thought.

devildog5001

rlyons & G1625S,

I bet you guys are right on the money. When you mentioned turning up the idle, opps, was wondering why I had to crank the sucker in so far! I replaced the AFC pin with a Bully Dog 1st thing and it was making so much fuel I turned everything way down, then I replaced the RPM spring and didn’t notice at the time because I was afraid to get on it because I didn’t have any gauges installed at the time. Now I have my gauges and a good turbo so I'm really excited to get it running. Thanks for the great ideas, I'll let you know how it turns out.

devildog5001

I thought I would let you guys know how things turned out with the final adjustment to the index marks on the throttle linkage. I moved it one tooth and problem solved!! I'm up to 20 lbs of boost and my truck runs stronger than it ever has. Thanks again for your advise, I would have been hosed without you guys! Just for my own knowledge, and maybe someone else that might run into this one day, what happens if your one tooth off in the opposite direction? Looks like you might not have enough room in the idle stop to turn down the idle low enough. Anyway the truck is running great, really cool to see so much potential after driving the same truck for 9 years and 150,000 miles bone stock!

rlyons

No problem, just things most of us have learned the hard way.

bgilbert

Score one for rlyons, good job. Index marks- one way, you won't idle. The other way, your idle will be HIGH. These can be played with when you install different length gov springs.