No Breaks
#1
No Breaks
Having some brake issues. I have replaced the master cylinder and brake booster. Sitting in the drive way the break pedal goes to floor. When I was circling the block I would push the pedal and it would go to the floor and the truck would stop slowly. Then, it would be really stiff for one press, then go to the floor again. I have a couple ideas of what could be wrong.
-Brakes need bleeding again.
-Replacement brake booster is bad. I got a vacuum gauge and it is about 30" at the pump and 25" at the brake booster. When I push the pedal it drops to about 7" and then takes about 10-12 seconds to build back up after I left off the pedal. Is this right?
I was just wanting some input before I starting messing with it again, in case there is something I hadn't thought of.
Thanks
-Brakes need bleeding again.
-Replacement brake booster is bad. I got a vacuum gauge and it is about 30" at the pump and 25" at the brake booster. When I push the pedal it drops to about 7" and then takes about 10-12 seconds to build back up after I left off the pedal. Is this right?
I was just wanting some input before I starting messing with it again, in case there is something I hadn't thought of.
Thanks
#2
Having some brake issues. I have replaced the master cylinder and brake booster. Sitting in the drive way the break pedal goes to floor. When I was circling the block I would push the pedal and it would go to the floor and the truck would stop slowly. Then, it would be really stiff for one press, then go to the floor again. I have a couple ideas of what could be wrong.
-Brakes need bleeding again.
-Replacement brake booster is bad. I got a vacuum gauge and it is about 30" at the pump and 25" at the brake booster. When I push the pedal it drops to about 7" and then takes about 10-12 seconds to build back up after I left off the pedal. Is this right?
I was just wanting some input before I starting messing with it again, in case there is something I hadn't thought of.
Thanks
-Brakes need bleeding again.
-Replacement brake booster is bad. I got a vacuum gauge and it is about 30" at the pump and 25" at the brake booster. When I push the pedal it drops to about 7" and then takes about 10-12 seconds to build back up after I left off the pedal. Is this right?
I was just wanting some input before I starting messing with it again, in case there is something I hadn't thought of.
Thanks
Take off the other loads (exhaust brake, heater system, etc), and if it still does it, the booster is bad. Otherwise fix the leak and yer brakes might be good.
#3
I went through many master cylinders and a couple boosters before I realized every MC was bad out of the box. So I ended up installing a MC and booster from a 96 1ton and problem solved. Little work to make the booster fit but worth it.
#5
Thanks for the help. I went and traded the master cylinder and power booster in for another set and reverse bleed the breaks and it started working great. The next day, heading home from work, I lost vacuum. Got home and hooked up the vacuum gauge and discovered the power booster had failed.
It was a Cardone remanufactured power booster. Where can I find a different power booster? New, a different brand, something.
-Thanks
It was a Cardone remanufactured power booster. Where can I find a different power booster? New, a different brand, something.
-Thanks
#6
do you have a manual vacuum pump to adapt to the booster? the vacuum pumps fail, evacuate it, see if the check valve holds, when the diaphram fails, you can hear it from the interior, never too late to put in hydro-boost, i did my vac booster in '03, when it does anything weird, upgrade time
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