New PATC transmission is in... need help
02-26-2010, 10:53 AM
#46
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Central Mi
Posts: 666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
just check it warmed up on flat ground and in neutral. if over the full mark by more than 1/2 inch, drain a quart out.
The_Head, for the purpose of identifying your issue, run the stock one. if it makes you feel better, we can raise the pressure some, I can show you how, really easy.
The_Head, for the purpose of identifying your issue, run the stock one. if it makes you feel better, we can raise the pressure some, I can show you how, really easy.
I think you may need your pressure raised.
When you're towing you say the problem is less pronounced - when you're towing the trans is under more of a load and pressures rise..
I raised my pressures ~ 30 psi but then I've also got a modified T-Go kit in it.
Fred - I had the tranny shop set mine when they rebuilt it and installed it.
Could you tell me how to measure and raise the pressures? I'd like to bump them a little more.
02-26-2010, 11:17 AM
#47
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Waddell, AZ
Posts: 685
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here's some pics to help with this operation. When the VB is in place, you'll need to cut down the end of the 3/16ths allen wrench to make it work up there.
Put a pressure gauge in the main line test port on the passenger side about in the middle. This will allow you to see before and after pressures. A 0-300 is the best gauge to use, if you want to test every aspect of the trans. For just the base test, a 0-100 should be good.
First pic, is off the drivers side with the pan removed. You can't see the adjuster unless you look up at the edge of the VB.
2nd pic, is self explanatory.
Your pressure will only increase relative to throttle position. The more throttle, the more pressure, based on the kickdown cable adjustment.
Put a pressure gauge in the main line test port on the passenger side about in the middle. This will allow you to see before and after pressures. A 0-300 is the best gauge to use, if you want to test every aspect of the trans. For just the base test, a 0-100 should be good.
First pic, is off the drivers side with the pan removed. You can't see the adjuster unless you look up at the edge of the VB.
2nd pic, is self explanatory.
Your pressure will only increase relative to throttle position. The more throttle, the more pressure, based on the kickdown cable adjustment.
02-26-2010, 11:39 AM
#50
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Quinton, New Jersey (middle of nowhere)
Posts: 7,547
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Why would PATC send you a BONE STOCK valve body with a "megaviper" trans? It has like every other upgrade but they give you a stock valve body in it? wow
I'm thinking maybe take the PATC valve body and put in a $120 Transgo shift kit and put it in. I definely wanna want to run a stock valve body with all those upgraded clutches and parts, clutches might not get the "bite" they need
I'm thinking maybe take the PATC valve body and put in a $120 Transgo shift kit and put it in. I definely wanna want to run a stock valve body with all those upgraded clutches and parts, clutches might not get the "bite" they need
02-26-2010, 01:17 PM
#51
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Waddell, AZ
Posts: 685
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
for testing purposes, there's no risk. Would I drive it that way for a long period, no. The VB mods work with the clutch setup, to coordinate perfect shift timing.
Sorry about the crappy snap32 converstion pics, gif's don't look to clean, but they're small in size.
Sorry about the crappy snap32 converstion pics, gif's don't look to clean, but they're small in size.
02-26-2010, 01:42 PM
#52
Registered User
02-26-2010, 06:14 PM
#53
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Wyo
Posts: 1,539
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It was by request. I ordered it without the valve body or a torque convertor because I already had that stuff from Sun Coast.
I was kind of surprised to see any kind of valve body from them.
02-26-2010, 08:47 PM
#54
Registered User
You might have to pull the shuttle valves and very carefully debur the leading and trailing edges. But you have to be really conservative.
03-19-2010, 05:32 PM
#55
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Wyo
Posts: 1,539
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/....html?t=265745
Tryed this adjustment today and it made the problem worse. Adjusted line pressure a full turn CW. Now it wants to drive around in 2nd gear almost everywhere, lol. Gonna try and pull the pan tonight and go CCW 2.5 turns and see if that helps.
Maybe the Suncoast VB was making too much pressure for the trans to shift out of second?
Tryed this adjustment today and it made the problem worse. Adjusted line pressure a full turn CW. Now it wants to drive around in 2nd gear almost everywhere, lol. Gonna try and pull the pan tonight and go CCW 2.5 turns and see if that helps.
Maybe the Suncoast VB was making too much pressure for the trans to shift out of second?
03-20-2010, 10:26 PM
#56
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Waddell, AZ
Posts: 685
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
so you get 1-2, and nothing else?
if you turned the pressure screw CW, you dropped the pressure 3 psi.
You change the blue loctite adjuster for kickdown? it sure seems like you're getting too much throttle pressure now. Will it drop into 3rd if you run up the rpm, and let off the throttle?
if you turned the pressure screw CW, you dropped the pressure 3 psi.
You change the blue loctite adjuster for kickdown? it sure seems like you're getting too much throttle pressure now. Will it drop into 3rd if you run up the rpm, and let off the throttle?
03-21-2010, 11:22 AM
#57
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Wyo
Posts: 1,539
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What would happen when I went about +1 turns on the line pressure screw is I could drive it around town (30 mph) and it would just stay in 2nd.
If I sped up leaving town it might shift into 3rd but I either had to accelerate at about half of WOT and it kind of bangs into 3rd. If I go WOT it stays in 2nd and winds out at about 55 mph, I have to get out of the throttle. Then in bangs into 3rd hard and shifts into OD immediately after that.
It still does this now, after I went back into the pan and turned the screw to the left about 2.5 turns. (-1.5 turns from it's baseline) It no longer sticks in 2nd in town however.
I think I'm just going to cave and call PATC and order their VB. Can't really enjoy the full power of my motor when I have to let out to get the 2-3 shift all the time.
If I sped up leaving town it might shift into 3rd but I either had to accelerate at about half of WOT and it kind of bangs into 3rd. If I go WOT it stays in 2nd and winds out at about 55 mph, I have to get out of the throttle. Then in bangs into 3rd hard and shifts into OD immediately after that.
It still does this now, after I went back into the pan and turned the screw to the left about 2.5 turns. (-1.5 turns from it's baseline) It no longer sticks in 2nd in town however.
I think I'm just going to cave and call PATC and order their VB. Can't really enjoy the full power of my motor when I have to let out to get the 2-3 shift all the time.
07-29-2010, 07:17 PM
#60
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Wyo
Posts: 1,539
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A couple of months ago a local torqueflite guru told me he thought the TV cable was sticking and not getting full travel. I'm going to try a new TV cable and adjust it accordingly.
If that doesn't work, I'm going to send a stock valve body back to PATC, have them install the shift kit they use for the megaviper transmissions, and try that out.
If that doesn't work, I'm going to send a stock valve body back to PATC, have them install the shift kit they use for the megaviper transmissions, and try that out.