wannadiesel

The small housings make a lot of boost at high rpm but they are also very restrictive, even with the wastegate open. Like Dodgenstein said, the 12 cm wastegated ones are cheap to free, since 2nd gen guys take them off to put 16 cm housings on. The 12 cm is a little small for POD's, but it's awesome on a truck with stock injectors.

A small wastegated housing can have so much backpressure at high RPM that the wastegate is overwhelmed and boost continues to rise. But yes, the idea of a wastegate is to have quick spooling at the bottom end while not overboosting under heavy load.

Can't use non-intercooled injectors in an intercooled head - the injector tips are too large. The 190 injectors are roughly equivalent to non intercooled injectors as far as flow.

I have Autometer Z-series gauges. They are a good match for the stock gauges. You are limited to the Isspro tach if you want to use the factory harness. Autometer makes a Z-series diesel tach that works off the alt. as you describe.

Redleg

The 16 is just a slight improvement over the 18.5. My understanding is that going smaller than 16, you start sacrificing top end. I have wondered whether the guys with the smaller housings get the same mileage or have issues passing other traffic on the freeway.

wannadiesel

Highway mileage is the same as when the truck was stock. No trouble passing, either. What happens is when you put in big injectors there gets to be too much backpressure so the EGT's get out of control at high RPM. This isn't an issue in a passing situation with an empty truck, but there's no way I could to a heavy trailer with my setup.

I think in a towing application highway mileage might go down due to excess boost at cruising speed.

SteamDave

Like loch said you have a tach hookup under the dash. You have to hunt a little for it though
I run a Isspro 3 3/8 tach (microprocessor version) They also make a wiring harness kit for our trucks P/N R8912-92. If you use this, or any other setup, be CAREFUL!!, the factory harness has 2 black colored wires- one is ground the other is the HOT wire!! The FSM lists this wire as being red.

As for a turbo, I'm more tha n happy with my PDR HX-35 with a 14cm non-gated housing
Quick spoolup and reasonable egt's...so far I haven't towed my trailer since I put the 190's in, I'm hoping they don't get too unreasonable

BC847

Thanks for the input folks.

Well, I finally got an opportunity to do some digging in daylight.
I pulled the compressor intake hose off and revved the engine while watching the impeller. Under full throttle acceleration, that boy jumps forward quite a bit! I didn't take my measuring stick to it, but it appeared well into the 1/16" range for sure. In this environment (No real load / in park), it seems to scuff ever so subtly on turbo deceleration.
With the engine off, I pulled the impeller forward and rotated it as best I could, and couldn't make it scrape.

I've also noticed the scraping/scuffing sound is not consistent. However, when it does happen, it's while the engine is under a moderate load (acceleration).

I laid hands all over the plumbing boots from the turbo to the inter-cooler, and couldn't find any imperfections on the boots.

I'm just about thinking the impeller's being forced forward (axially), and at some point, begins to oscillate, in a radial fashion that results in the scuffing.



While in there, I tried my best with the digital camera, to get pics of the labels found on the gear drive cover of the engine, and the turbos compressor housing. No luck. Too out of focus with the camera that close. My eye sight, isn't what it used to be . . . . . screw it! I pried the label plates off.

Here's what I have:

ENGINE LABEL
Date of Mfg: 19930203
Engine Cert ID: 359C.I.D 5.9L
Family[: 403A
CPL: 1579
Timing: 1.25mm
Valve lash: 0.010 Int, 0.020 Exh
Firing Order: 1,5,3,6,2,4
Idle Speed: 800rpm
E.C.S: SPL
Model: B5.9-160
Engine No.: 44835533
Ref No.: 53010069-F
Fuel rate @ adv HP: 74mm3/stroke
Adv HP: 160 @ 2500rpm

TURBO LABEL
Make: Holset
Assy: 3531456
Serial: 0220457
Customer: 3531504-0-1/3
Type: H1C

I think this: http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Facts/93specs.html is my engine.



I can't really get past the fact that I need to decide how I use my truck to come to a reasonable decision as to what parts to put on it. REALISTICALLY, I only pull my 205lb butt. I enjoy "Stop-light Drag racing". Once in a blue moon, I may haul a load of sand for the pool or something like that, Or perhaps the Dads boat (24' alum hull outboard).

I suppose that's it. I reckon that equates to 0 to 60mph performance. The daily driving will include 75mph highway travel as well.


In digging in these forums, I'm seeing where some are going with the 16cm2 turbine housings. I'm also seeing at least one thread where folks are saying the 12's the way to go, and they're happy. And then there's that hybrid (the one with the modified housing, milled to fit the different turbine shaft/compressor deal).

I think what I'm wanting is a new turbo assembly w/associated TOP, the +40HP injectors, the Banks inter-cooler, possibly, an improved air filter box, and maybe goto 4" exhaust (not sure about that, got 3.5" now).



There's no sense in me trying to re-invent the wheel, so I need to get some gages sorted. I'm thinking a boost, pyro, tach, and tranny. I'm thinking of incorporating them in the stock panel where the 4x4 engaged light is (the control center thing). Need to research that. I need to dig into the stock harness and see if that's the way to go. Gotta get a manual for my specific truck that includes wiring schemes.



Again, THANKS for your thoughts.

BC

wannadiesel

I think that since you're going to have to replace the turbo anyway you should go straight to the hybrid. I'd suggest either the HTT stage 3 or a PDR-35 with the 16 cm housing. Since you have an automatic, turbine housing selection is not so critcal. You only have to spool the turbo once, I have to spool it four times to get from zero to 70. An automatic truck also never gets a break to drop the EGT, you're on the accelerator all the way up. Doing this right off the bat will give you room to grow. These turbos are a little too big for a stock truck, so you will not feel a performance boost when you put one on. Once you start tweaking the pump they will come alive.

Don't waste your money on the Bank$ intercooler, it will not make you any power.

You can keep the 3.5" exhaust, you won't gain enough performance to justify the expense of a 4" system.

A BHAF would be a good idea.

I take it you're thinking of 190 injectors? POD's are more bang for the buck.

There's no room in the message center for gauges without ditching the whole thing. The circuit board and plug for the thing are right behind where it says "Cummins Turbo Diesel."

Redleg

From Pastor Bob's teachings, I would concur on the exhaust. Save your money for other mods, you can go bigger laterif you really get bit by the bug. Our 3" would probably be just fine if Dodge didn't bend it with sledge hammer. Get the gauge pod for your windshield and mount it as low as you can. Put the pyro and boost in there, as they're the two you will monitor the most. Personally, I'm leaning towards modifying my stock turbo soon. The way I understand it, they machine it for an HX-40 impeller, for quicker spool up (maybe not quite as quick as the 35), but I believe our shaft is suppose to be heavier than the 35. I also think it's less of an investment to walk away from if I get brave enuff for twins.

BC847

Would anybody know right off the top of their head if the 14cm wastegated housing runs a stock outlet size? Will I need an adaptor to connect to a Rip Rook 4" TOP?

I'm looking real hard at the:

PDR HX35, the 14cm WG'ed turbine housing, Rip Rook (I think it's called) 4" exhaust system, the ATS manifold, and 190 injectors.


Thanks Guys

wannadiesel

14 cm is 3" outlet like all the other housings. I'm not sure, but I think the Rip Rook downpipe is a "some assembly required" type of part, you have to put the turbo flange on yourself.

BC847

Is this still fairly accurate regarding port matching and general clean-up of the ATP manifold?

http://www.nwbombers.com/cgi-bin/for...=3;t=5406;st=0

BC847

It was definitely scuffing.


Boy-Howdy!












The oil seal was leaking on the compressor side as well (all the black).

wannadiesel

OW!! So much for that compressor section. If you can spare the truck for a week or two you ought to send that thing to HTT and have 'em upgrade it while they rebuild it. They also do exchanges so you can get it back up and running quicker.

wannadiesel

That looks like excellent advice! Gonna get out the die grinder?

BC847

Ohhhh yeah!

Den

Sparks!


Den