getpower

How's it going guys?

Very new to first gen ownership and performance, but this being my fourth diesel truck I'm very excited to get what I can out of it by going into the motor and not just being able to plug a programmer in and upload some software that gives me 180 hp and 280 lb-ft more of unsafe torque. I've had a '96 7.3 F350, and a '99 7.3 F250, I bought an '06 5.9, which I love, then came about this '89 one-owner, diesel shop owned and maintained cummins truck. I've been after this '89 Power Ram 4x4 for about 2.5 years and I recently had the chance to buy it and I jumped on it. It's a great runner, but should be a nice project too. 110,000 miles and a transmission rebuild that's under 2 years old.

I plan on this being my daily driver to work and back to keep the miles off of my nicer truck, and I also think that I enjoy driving it more than I do the newer truck, too. I swear it gets better fuel mileage too, so far.

My first question is about turning the fuel pump up with the free mods. I am kind of anxious to do all of that, but I am concerned about wether I should get guages first or if it will make a big enough harmful difference without doing a governor spring and a fuel pin just yet.

I plan on doing a KDP kit of some sort and pyro, boost, and tach as soon as I can, but that is time and money willing. Probably more important things that need to be done first-like a steering box and steering shaft upgrade on my '06.

The other thing that I am concerned about is with advancing the timing and adjusting the power screw if the truck does not have a tach. I had read that adjusting those can change the idle? Please correct me if I am wrong, or if there is really no reason I should be worried about not having a tachometer. I am very mechanically inclined, but I'm not that good to where I can adjust RPMs by ear.

I am kind of one of the first people within my circle of family and friends to really get interested in diesel performance, so needless to say, we don't have any kind of specialty tools lying around to check timing and engine RPM or anything like that that I am aware of. Be nice to clamp to one of the plug wires and see the timing marks...

Any advice or help is appreciated, and I'm sure you'll be hearing a lot more from me throughout this build.

Any relevant info should be in the signature. If there's something I may have forgotten, please let me know.

NJTman

Hey GP,

For safety's sake, a guage kit is first, before any modifications to the pump.

You can buy a 3-n-1 gauge, like I did from Glowshift. It's not the best gauge made, but It's much simpler than having 3 gauges spread all over the place on your dash, as the first gens don't have a lot of spare room to put gauges. There is an a-pillar 2 gauge cluster avail, but it appears that it points to the ceiling from what I've heard.

You can purchase a "timing kit" which allows you to use your alternator for a tachometer. It mounts to the back of the alternator, and sends the signal through wires to your gauge inside. I think there is another kit available that mounts down at the harmonic balancer that does the same thing. A tach is good to have, as more importantly than the idle, which IMO is easier to deal with / figure out as if it's too high at idle, the auto trans will be an uncomfortable bang to shift into gear. Too low, and it will sound like it will stall.

Yes, Timing advance, pump HP adjustments cause the idle to change. You will have to re-adjust, and it's not easy. Personally, I'm recommending you to purchase the 3300 spring, so that you can remove the top hat and access the idle screws. THis way, you can remove the screw, clean the threads, slot the forward end for easy adjustment, and lubricate it so it turns relatively easy for adjustment. It's a PITA to loosen the locking nut, but not impossible. I purchased a cheap 10 mm wrench and modified it with my grinder and welder for accessing the nut. The 3300 spring will make that engine run 100 times better, and top end will increase how fast you can go.

You don't need a Kit for the KDP, other than fel pro timing gasket and seal kit. You can fix the KDP, but more importantly locktite the screws behind the timing cover, as they loosen up too. KDP repair doesn't require anything special other than a punch and a hammer to prevent it from coming out.

All of what I just said is found in the sticky..

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t-t102027.html

Welcome to the nuthouse..... It's a little dark in here, so make sure you bring your flashlight.

oliver foster

I would strongly recommend pyro and boost gauges before turning the fuel screw on a NON I/Ced 12V.
Without the intercooler and with the bigger factory injectors used on those years, things get hot quickly.

I would think that it would get much better MPG than your '06

getpower

No problem, gauges must come first, understood.

Thanks for the replies.

I do plan on intercooling the truck eventually. I have some big plans for it, it. Just a matter of getting together a plan of attack. I know it'll never pass my '06 it anything newer in a race, but I'm going for some really respectful power. Hopefully I can meet my '06 stock as far as hp and tq, and still have a nice daily driver, and keep it pretty much first gen as far as pump and trans.

I have a lot of simple things that need to be done first and forehand before I can actually make it look like something nice. From what I can see it does not have much, if any at all rust on the body or cab or underside. The truck is very clean underneath as well, and inside-at-night kept from what I suspect. So I'll have to spend some money on some kind of prevention soon because I live very near the ocean in a pretty salty-air environment. I'm very certain that the non-factory paint has no clear coat on it either.

We will have to see how my build goes. It wot be a quick thing at all. It'll be piece by piece, an hopefully eventually turn into something that I would've been lustful for when I was 17.