New to board and Dodge. Rear end upgrade
07-22-2011, 09:27 AM
#16
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If you really want to upgrade you could get a 2nd gen dana 80. Best thing is outboard drums. No removing the axle to change the shoes! That IMO makes it almost makes it worth while.
07-22-2011, 11:40 AM
#17
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Are you saying that on my rear I have to pull the axles to change the brake shoes? That's craziness.
07-22-2011, 12:08 PM
#19
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While that is true, it is also a SUPER BOMB PROOF design, especially if they are the studded type. in my humble opinion, it is not that much harder to pull the axles. All that said, I did do a disk conversion that keeps the bomb proof design and lets you do brake service without pulling the axle...Mark
07-22-2011, 02:33 PM
#20
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So are these 2nd gen diffs semi-floaters then? If so, i would keep the full-floater any day of the week, they are stronger. Pulling axles is easy and good insurance if you ever break one. You wont lose the tire with a broken axle on a full-floater, not true with a semi-floater.
07-22-2011, 02:42 PM
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Thanks for all the replies! I feel alot better now. To answer a couple of the questions, the springs are in 2 bundles. Bottom has 6 top has 3. Factory?
I glanced at the Timbren site. Looks like a poly bushing? I think I'll need some kind of helper to keep the truck somewhat level. Would spring packs from a 1 ton truck or van fit?
My tires are Goodyear Workhorse, E range 3042lbs @ 80psi. I think they're overkill for even this, but they were on the truck. They are all less than 50% though so I'll gladly take suggestions on good replacements.
Maybe368 got me thinking about the brakes too. I've done 95% of all my towing and heavy hauling in a truck with a standard tranny so never worried that much going through the mountains. Brakes are feeling much more critical now. Since it's the same rear end, I guess the 1 ton brakes would bolt on easy right?
Funds are limited which is why I'm looking at OEM stuff instead of shiny new aftermarket parts.
On another side note, when I checked my spring count I noticed an oil or trans cooler under the bed. Is that factory? Seems like strange spot for a radiator.
I glanced at the Timbren site. Looks like a poly bushing? I think I'll need some kind of helper to keep the truck somewhat level. Would spring packs from a 1 ton truck or van fit?
My tires are Goodyear Workhorse, E range 3042lbs @ 80psi. I think they're overkill for even this, but they were on the truck. They are all less than 50% though so I'll gladly take suggestions on good replacements.
Maybe368 got me thinking about the brakes too. I've done 95% of all my towing and heavy hauling in a truck with a standard tranny so never worried that much going through the mountains. Brakes are feeling much more critical now. Since it's the same rear end, I guess the 1 ton brakes would bolt on easy right?
Funds are limited which is why I'm looking at OEM stuff instead of shiny new aftermarket parts.
On another side note, when I checked my spring count I noticed an oil or trans cooler under the bed. Is that factory? Seems like strange spot for a radiator.
Your leaf springs are definely aftermarker or beefed up...if you have 2 seperate packs and your top pack has 3 leafs...you have nothing to worry about. lol...my truck towed 20,000 pounds all it's life and the guy only had 7 leafs on the back
07-22-2011, 02:48 PM
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And with those tires and that transmission cooler, and your giant rear leaf spring pack, and a cummins diesel turned up mildly.....you have NOTHING to worry about except maybe stopping....
Sounds like your truck has more towing features to it than most of us on here lol......that trans cooler will really help keep the trans cool. when the fluid hits a certain temperature it will open a valve and allow the trans fluid to run to the under bed cooler....the problem is the fan on that cooler is set at like 275 degrees, which by then the damage is done....you should hook that fan to a rocker switch or something so you can control it
Sounds like your truck has more towing features to it than most of us on here lol......that trans cooler will really help keep the trans cool. when the fluid hits a certain temperature it will open a valve and allow the trans fluid to run to the under bed cooler....the problem is the fan on that cooler is set at like 275 degrees, which by then the damage is done....you should hook that fan to a rocker switch or something so you can control it
07-22-2011, 10:24 PM
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Yea it's some crazy high number like that.
Don't get me wrong the fluid running through the cooler helps, but having the fan running would REALLY help.
I would have a trans temp gauge in the HOT line, and when it hit a certain temp, just flick the switch and watch the temp. go down.
The problem is, the factory under bed cooler uses an "H" style valve, when the fluid viscosity is thinner (hot) it will push the valve open and allow the fluid to pass through the cooler- I'd imagine that valve could go bad as well, If the valve is not open, and you're running the fan on the trans cooler, its kinda pointless lol
Don't get me wrong the fluid running through the cooler helps, but having the fan running would REALLY help.
I would have a trans temp gauge in the HOT line, and when it hit a certain temp, just flick the switch and watch the temp. go down.
The problem is, the factory under bed cooler uses an "H" style valve, when the fluid viscosity is thinner (hot) it will push the valve open and allow the fluid to pass through the cooler- I'd imagine that valve could go bad as well, If the valve is not open, and you're running the fan on the trans cooler, its kinda pointless lol
07-23-2011, 02:00 PM
#25
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Yea it's some crazy high number like that.
Don't get me wrong the fluid running through the cooler helps, but having the fan running would REALLY help.
I would have a trans temp gauge in the HOT line, and when it hit a certain temp, just flick the switch and watch the temp. go down.
The problem is, the factory under bed cooler uses an "H" style valve, when the fluid viscosity is thinner (hot) it will push the valve open and allow the fluid to pass through the cooler- I'd imagine that valve could go bad as well, If the valve is not open, and you're running the fan on the trans cooler, its kinda pointless lol
Don't get me wrong the fluid running through the cooler helps, but having the fan running would REALLY help.
I would have a trans temp gauge in the HOT line, and when it hit a certain temp, just flick the switch and watch the temp. go down.
The problem is, the factory under bed cooler uses an "H" style valve, when the fluid viscosity is thinner (hot) it will push the valve open and allow the fluid to pass through the cooler- I'd imagine that valve could go bad as well, If the valve is not open, and you're running the fan on the trans cooler, its kinda pointless lol
Are we 100% sure it's a trans cooler? I didn't follow the hoses forward the other day but the cooler(or hose) is leaking a tiny bit and it looked to me like oil but I guess it could just be trans fluid mixed with road grime. I'm just used to trans cooler being in or by the main radiator.
As far as brakes, does my Detroit locker affect the axle pulling step? I'm not completely clear on what it is other than it makes both wheels turn. The guy I bought the truck from wasn't an expert on it either, he just had his mechanic install it based on someone's advice. I guess I'm stuck with it.
Thanks again for sharing your wisdom.
07-23-2011, 02:04 PM
#26
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Now that I think about it, trans cooling lines have always been metal in my experience. This thing is hooked up with hose, maybe 3/8 fuel line or something like that.
07-23-2011, 03:13 PM
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In one of the trans cooler lines there should be a Port already tapped and everything, There's a lot of posts on here about trans temp gauges someone can probably tell you exactly where it is.
I'm pretty sure it's like a factory temp. sensor that is in the line, you can take it out, get a T fitting and screw the sensor back in plus your new gauge......if you look for it in the lines down on the trans you'll probably find it
I'm pretty sure it's like a factory temp. sensor that is in the line, you can take it out, get a T fitting and screw the sensor back in plus your new gauge......if you look for it in the lines down on the trans you'll probably find it
07-23-2011, 03:31 PM
#28
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[QUOTE=Aquah0lic;
As far as brakes, does my Detroit locker affect the axle pulling step? I'm not completely clear on what it is other than it makes both wheels turn. The guy I bought the truck from wasn't an expert on it either, he just had his mechanic install it based on someone's advice. I guess I'm stuck with it.
Thanks again for sharing your wisdom.[/QUOTE]
Locker does not affect pulling axles.
As far as brakes, does my Detroit locker affect the axle pulling step? I'm not completely clear on what it is other than it makes both wheels turn. The guy I bought the truck from wasn't an expert on it either, he just had his mechanic install it based on someone's advice. I guess I'm stuck with it.
Thanks again for sharing your wisdom.[/QUOTE]
Locker does not affect pulling axles.
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