GRRRR-local parts guy says,,,TOO OLD--unavailable. their LAST price was $310 bucks anyway. What to do,,,what to do??

Surely others have had same problem,,alternator doesnt charge. What is that small rubber black rectangle thingee on there anyway?? Parts guy said its the voltage regulator,,,then whats that square deal on firewall??

I never saw one of those "Densco"(sp) alternators before,,,are they all externally regulated?? Any way to eliminate that last section of wire harness that doesnt work!!?? If you PULL on the wire towards the fenderwell it charges for a litle while,,what gives??
ANY help appreciated-d-

 

the square thing on the firewall i believe on these trucks will be the voltage regulator. I got one of mine for 16 bucks with a pig tail for the unit as well. Mine charges now. look in the sticky under external voltage regulator install. that will give yo the info you need

 

The black thingy is just a junction block. Rewire as needed with automotive wire and connectors.

 

where'd you go to get the pigtail w/ it?

 

Suggest taking to starter / alternator shop and be done with it.

 

dozer said to take it to an alternator fix it shop,,we dont have those HERE any more,,and what would THEY do?? Its the wires causing it,,, NOT the altenator??

So someone said to cut it off and connect it direct,,how do you know what to connect to where??

sorry for being so dumb,but I am a dim bulb so you have to draw me a better picture.

 

The black molded piece of plastic that attaches to the rear of the alternator is just the terminal.

You can cut it completely off and reconnect the 2 wires to the regulator at the connector that is about 18" further back from the end, disconnect the connector or cut the 2 smaller wires and reconnect the 2 wires to the respective studs on the rear of the alternator.

Then go the your local welding shop and get yourself about 15 feet of #4-gauge welding cable and some copper lugs with 1/4" & 3/8" holes for the ends of them.

Now very neatly crimp on a 1/4" hole lug to one end of the #4-gauge cable and insulate the lug with shrink tubing of good electrical tape and secure it to the (+) Positive stud on the rear of the alternator, then route it across the rear of the engine and bring it up to the side of the battery giving yourself enough slack now crimp on the lug with the 3/8” hole and insulate it well as before then set it aside.

Next make yourself up a short ground cable using some of the #4-gauge cable and secure it under the smaller (-) stud on the rear of the alternator and then secure the free end securely under a bolt on the engine somewhere.

At this time I would recommend you make a cable with 3/8” holes and connect one end under the same bolt that you connected the ground wire and take the opposite end and either take it straight to the battery negative terminal or to a bolt through the frame rail near the steering box.

Now check and recheck to be sure the battery wire is on the correct stud of the alternator and then connect the free end to the (+) positive battery terminal.

I would also highly recommend that you fuse this terminal to the battery, you can go to any auto parts and get a power fuse used in most newer foreign cars, it looks like a big blade fuse with holes in each end, simply connect the cable to one end and mount the fuse under the battery terminal bolt.

Your Nippon Denso alternator is rated at 120 amperes so get any fuse at least this rating; I want you to use this fuse to protect your system against any catastrophic damage if either the alternator or cable shorted out to ground.

Without it you will see lots of sparks, melted wiring and quite possibly an exploded battery.

Alternately you could go to a stereo shop and get yourself a fancy gold plated power fuse used for high power amplifiers but you will pay quite a bit more money for the same thing.

By following these steps you will eliminate about 99.0% of the problems with the alternator in these trucks.

On these trucks if you try to draw anywhere near the rated amperage of this alternator the wire to the battery gets HOT and will create all kinds of problems, I believe the stock wire is only #6 gauge.

I did this to my alternator on my truck only using #2-gauge when I had problems keeping all of my batteries charged.

Sorry I got carried away, I was only going to tell you what the black plastic thing was but I couldn’t stop.

Let me know if you have any questions about what I have described.

I hope this gives you some helpful information.
Jim

 

jim, where does one get the 120A fuse, other than at a stereo shop?

 

You should be able to get them at any decent Auto Parts in your town.

I stopped in to Pep Boys to check and see if they had something suitable for you to use and I found them on the rack along with the rest of the fuses.

It is made by Littlefuse and looks like they are repackaged for other vendors.



Here is a better view of the fuse, it is rated at 175amps and it cost $4.99 USD
The UPC is 896270-4

If you are looking for this fuse I would really try and be sure it is made by Littlefuse or BUSS and not some foreign copy because my experience with look alikes they either do not handle the rated current or when they do blow they do damage to the fuse holder and connected wiring when the housing melts.



These are the type fuses that I use in all of my high current applications; they are called a “T” Fuse made by BUSS and are of a high quality. I use 200 amp fuses for my battery interconnects but they are bypassed when the batteries are paralleled for starting.



When you get into the commercial type I am using they are made by companies like BUSSMAN (BUSS), ITT or Gould Shawmut.

I hope this give you some information.
Jim

 

Jim I gotta say your the man!! To go out and take pictures of fuses at the store just to help out another member is great. Keep up the good work and pat yourself on the back for a job well done!