farmer0_1

being it happens just a couple times i will go with just one of those things.

wannadiesel

Yeah, I'd do a hot wire just as a test. If 12 volts direct doesn't get it lit, then it's time to look elsewhere.

BearKiller

I don't know if it has any bearing on the mysterious no-start situation that the wife had been experiencing; but, Sunday morning, I went out to start the truck for her.

It had sat outside in less than ten degree temperatures since the previous Friday night, without being messed with.

I hit the key and only got a weak click.

As the battery was in the truck when we got it, I have no notion of it's history; but, it is a Group 31P.

I got a new 31S Interstate appearance-blemish battery from the route-truck for $45 and stuck it in her truck, Monday night.

After being plugged in for a couple hours, it started at the first lift of a piston.

So far, she hasn't had any more no-start episodes.

Hopefully, she won't have anymore.

BearKiller

Alas, alas , so much for that theory.

It was around sixteen degrees, last night, her truck-- believe it or not --had sat since Friday evening (she took off all day with someone else--nothing like a highly mobile woman ).

Plugged in since 3:30AM, I went out to start it at 9:AM.

The engine would whirl over easily, but no attempt to start, push the pedal half-way and still no, push it to the floor and still no.

I put a test-light on the solenoid, with the key on, and had light.

No one out there to turn the key to CRANK, while I watched the test-light; is it possible that it could be not getting fire when the key-switch is all the way over to CRANK??

I removed my little cap, from my little ether access hole, gave her a shot, and away she went.

Sometimes, it can set all night, in near zero temperatures, and start the first lick in the morning, then drive a dozen miles, set until noon, and not hit a lick.

This is the first time it has sat a long time and crank without starting; usually, it will start easily, first thing in the morning, and wait until later in the day to pull this stunt.

What do you guys think??

Ignition switch, solenoid, lift-pump, sucking air??

The problem is so intermittent that it only happens maybe one time out of fifty.

Thanks.

wannadiesel

It's possible it's not getting power when cranking. Next time it does it, clip the lead on the solenoid and jam the probe somewhere that it's grounded and you can see the light. If the light goes out when you crank, replace the ignition switch.

farmer0_1

run a wire into the cab so your wife can see it ask her to watch for the lite to come on. i have used a license plate lite clamped for ground onto the bottom of the dash with a small vice grip.

BearKiller

I will do just that.

The next time it acts up, she can observe what is going on with the light, and I won't have to be there with the hood up.

If the light is staying lit, then it ain't the key-switch; and, if the light goes out, then it is.

GENIOUS!!! I am sure glad I thought of it.

Thanks.

farmer0_1

i have taken away alot more ideas off this site than i will ever repay. good luck

BearKiller

It had another no start fit today.

I happened to be around, this time.

(I haven't had a chance to install an "inside the cab" test-light.)

I held the test-light on the solenoid:

Key in run position = light.

Key in cranking position = still light, but dims somewhat.

We were both on our way to other places, so I gave it a wee snort of ether and away it went.

The thing runs like a freight-train, once it starts, and has never died while running.

When it does this, just a breath of ether, and it lights right off.

Other times, it hardly turns over and it is running.

What do I do next??

Thanks.

wannadiesel

Yeah, the light will dim while cranking because the battery voltage drops under load. Sounds like the ignition switch is OK.

I'd really like to see if cracking a couple lines will get it to light off.

It sounds like it's not getting fuel until it spins at normal idle speed.

Have you tried mashing the accelerator when it won't start? If the governor lever assembly was binding sometimes, then the starting spring would not be able to give enough fuel for a zero throttle start. Flooring it will have the same effect the starting spring normally does.

It's possible the solenoid is getting flaky, but I really doubt it. I thought I had a spare solenoid body laying around but I must have chucked it. Maybe somebody with an extra would be nice enough to mail you one to try.

BearKiller

I have tried numerous throttle positions, from none to all the way down, to no effect.

Thanks.

Crazybill

Try bleeding an injector while it is turning over in a no-start situation. If no fuel then replace the fuel shut-off solenoid. In a pinch you can remove the solenoid, pull it's guts out and put it back in, but then you have to use the manual kill lever to shut it off.
-Bill-

DODGE 92

me thinking its electrical but could be you losing prime somewhere and that shot of ether gives it a boost
im thinking your lift pump might be going bad next time it happens check to prime that little lever on lift pump if it soft you lost some prime somewhere

oh and by the way any fuel leaks anywhere

just my 2 cents

BearKiller

The last time it acted up, while trying to figure it out, I inadvertently knocked loose the spade connection on the solenoid.

I stuck it back on there, really good, wiggling it a lot.

I have no real confidence that that had anything to do with helping the situation; but, since that time, it has not had any more no-start spells.

As soon as I get time, I am replacing the spade-terminals with ring-terminals, as I have noticed a little arcing from them when it is dark enough to notice.

jimlj

I had the same problem with my '89. It turned out to be a bad lift pump. It would always start when warm, but when cold it would act like there was no fuel.