BearKiller

When we hadn't had the wife's truck over a few weeks, back in November 06, outside temperature dropped down to six degrees above, truck plugged in for three hours, fires right up at the first touch of the key, idles for about twenty minutes, drives for about six miles, with a couple of leave-the-engine-running stops in between.

Then at noon, temperature up to about eighteen degrees, the engine will crank and crank, but won't fire.

Due to where it was sitting and other circumstances, I disabled the grid-heaters, gave it a shot of ether, and it fired right up.

Once home, I put on a new fuel-filter, thinking the fuel had possibly waxed up in the old one.

I thought the problem was cured, always starts quickly, regardless of temperatures that we have had, no problems.

Until today.

Same story, same situation, and even same parking lot, outside temperature in morning of six degrees, start up no problem.

Sit all day at work, until two o'clock, outside temperature up to about twenty four degrees and sunny.

Crank and crank and no fire, won't even try.

A shot of ether, and she fires right up.

Once home, I tried to simulate the same situation, and every time it fires up as it should.

At her job, where this happened both times, it isn't somewhere that I can be cracking injector lines and such, and I also can't devote the time necessary for such doings, as I have to get back to my business that I had to leave on short notice to rescue the wife.

Does anyone have any good ideas as to what could be the problem when this happens??

Thanks.

alborada

its a etheraholic I know how a shot of whiskey helps me get going in the morning.

G1625S

Sound's electrical to me. Maybe try hotwiring the shutdown solenoid to the battery when the problem shows up...TTT

BearKiller

As best as I can see, there are two wires plugged on in close proximity to the shutdown solenoid.

Which of these two is the one that I will need to hotwire??

I wish I knew/was-smart-enough to do pictures.

Thanks.

Chrisreyn

BK, here is a photo of the top of the FSO. Where this photo shows one wire, there are often two. The spade connectors tend to become a problem due to a poor connection, so replacing them with a ring connector as this photo shows is a good idea. On the two wire set-ups, on is power to the FSO and the other continues the circuit to the temp sensor then to the KSB.
Hope this helps!

Chrisreyn

BTW, with the key in the "start" position , you should be able to check the circuit with a test light. You should be getting power at the FSO terminal and ( if cool enough, at the KSB).. you should also have power to the FSO in the "run" position, and I THINK at the KSB as well....at least until the engine warms up.

crunchybuttr

bearkiller,
I'm having a similar problem, except mine wont start perion... where did you put the ether in? I may give it a try. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=134796. Heres what happened to me.... pretty close. I checked the shut off solenoid, and thats not eh problem. I may go try to bleed the fuel system here in a minute... before it starts sleeting again . anyway, I'm interested in hearing how your problem progresses, Keep us posted.
Mike

BearKiller

The first time this happened, I had to take loose the intake-boot at the turbo and spray it in there.

As this required some disassembly and, after starting, reassambly, I came up with a much superior plan.

I removed the intake assembly that is connected to the grid-heater-coil housing and drilled a 5/8" hole through the intake housing in the flat area that is on top.

I installed a "tubeless fluid-fill agricultural air valve stem" (a tubeless tractor tire valve) through this hole.

I removed the Shraeder valve core and left it out.

I have two options for squirting in the starting fluid.

If the can has one of those red straws, I can simply unscrew the valve-cap and place the straw in the hole.

If the can has no straw, I unscrew the fluid-fill portion of the valve, which leaves about a 5/16 hole, and squirt the fluid in there.

These tubeless tractor tire valves are readily available at any tire shop that services farm tires and, most likely, are available from such places as Tractor Supply, etc.

We sell them at our tire shop for six bucks.

It is a good idea to disconnect the grid-heaters before using starting fluid.

Don't get carried away, as the least little mist, at the right time, in the right place, is all it takes.

Some people get all dramatic when ether is mentioned; but, nearly all farm tractors come from the factory with a factory installed ether can holder and dash-mounted push-button, that injects the fluid.

wannadiesel

I'm with Greg - sounds like fuel shutoff solenoid trouble to me. Could even be caused by a flaky ignition switch.

BearKiller

Do you all think the problem is most likely in the wiring/ ignition-switch related to the shut-down solenoid; or, could it also be a problem with the solenoid, itself??

What if I were to temporarily rig her up a hot wire, routed through a toggle, that she could flip on, should it pull this stunt again?? This would save her being out in the dark, with the hood up, with untelling what kind of creeps lurking around.

I would hate for her to call and tell me she had to shoot someone.

Thanks.

By the way, the truck has probably been started a dozen, or more, times, since it's last episode, with nary a failure.

farmer0_1

not that i am any kind of expert but i do follow bearkillers reasoning . why should a shot of either help start it if it is a wiring problem? if the fuel shut off solinoid is not moving to the on position shouldn't it fire then die over and over every time the either is injected? unless added viberation would jiggle the wiring loom or soliniod. just asking

vzdude

if it is the wiring for the shutoff solenoid, the easiest way I have figured to check it it to turn the key on, then get out and manually lift up the solenoid rod and see if it will stay in. If it does, look for corroded wires at the battery or at the connectors. If not, you could have other wiring problems, a bad relay, or a bad solenoid. Hope it helps.

G1625S

That would help if he had a p-pump... The plunger is phusically inside the pump on a 1st gen

G1625S

If it is the solenoid, or some sort of wiring issue, the fact that it starts with a snort of ether could very well be a crazy coincidence.

Chrisreyn

OK, when the FSO connection was bad on my 91, it would start fine a few dozen times, then act up for a few, then be fine again... the spade connector was corroded, and sometimes it would get a connection and sometimes it wouldn't.. when i changed it to the ring connector, I never had a problem again.
So I still think you have an electrical issue..