My truck lost power.
#46
Administrator
Thread Starter
Without having to look through my FSM, how do I replace the gaskets?
Do I remove the manifold bolts with the engine HOT or COLD?
Also still have a very slight miss?
What is the best way to test for cylinder imbalance and where do I get an adapter for a compression tester?
The engine actually ran smooth before I replaced the injectors, I only disconnected the injector lines at the injectors, and nothing else was removed of the fuel system.
Thanks Jim
#47
Registered User
Jim, let me get this straight.
1. You walked up to a smooth running machine.
2. You did something to it.
3. It now doesn't run smooth.
4. It's what you did.
Rough idle is likely an off par "new" injector. Compression wouldn't change overnight for no reason. These machines tend to clear air in the high pressure lines with a couple of full throttle pulls.
The transmission shouldn't heat up. With the under bed cooler it shouldn't get over about °125 degrees unless you're pulling, and °200 unless everything else is about to melt down, as in long heavy pull upgrade in thin air, water and EGT at the red line.
Is it possible that the jenius that put in the gasser valve body fuddled up the case at the same time.
1. You walked up to a smooth running machine.
2. You did something to it.
3. It now doesn't run smooth.
4. It's what you did.
Rough idle is likely an off par "new" injector. Compression wouldn't change overnight for no reason. These machines tend to clear air in the high pressure lines with a couple of full throttle pulls.
The transmission shouldn't heat up. With the under bed cooler it shouldn't get over about °125 degrees unless you're pulling, and °200 unless everything else is about to melt down, as in long heavy pull upgrade in thin air, water and EGT at the red line.
Is it possible that the jenius that put in the gasser valve body fuddled up the case at the same time.
#48
Registered User
Jim, the gaskets are pretty easy, just go to Cummins with your engine s/n, and they can get you all the gaskets, bolts, etc. That or get on evilpay and get the turbo gasket kit, you can also get the manifold bolts through Case IH, that's where I got mine. You want to do the work with the engine no more than slightly warm. You will have hold of the manifold and turbo.
Take the turbo off the manifold, take the manifold off the engine, then bolt it all back together with the new parts. The front of the manifold will sit on top of the oil cooler while you put the back gasket and bolt in. I suggest starting with the top back one and working forward. I slid the gasket in behind the manifold then got the bolt started, and let the gasket swing down into place to start the bottom bolt. If the drain gasket sticks to the turbo you won't even need to pull it out of the block.
Post 28 will give you a tools list. 23 has the Case part number.
Take the turbo off the manifold, take the manifold off the engine, then bolt it all back together with the new parts. The front of the manifold will sit on top of the oil cooler while you put the back gasket and bolt in. I suggest starting with the top back one and working forward. I slid the gasket in behind the manifold then got the bolt started, and let the gasket swing down into place to start the bottom bolt. If the drain gasket sticks to the turbo you won't even need to pull it out of the block.
Post 28 will give you a tools list. 23 has the Case part number.
#49
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North Idaho
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Part Number: FPG MS92089 is the number for manifold gaskets at napa. There almost $9
Manifold gaskets are easy to do. I did a ported manifold on my 92 the other day and replaced the gaskets on a 93. Tried spraying the bolts on the 93 first. Didnt on the 92. I think the lower mileage ones came out harder then my truck.
Manifold gaskets are easy to do. I did a ported manifold on my 92 the other day and replaced the gaskets on a 93. Tried spraying the bolts on the 93 first. Didnt on the 92. I think the lower mileage ones came out harder then my truck.
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