DOZENVALVE

I joined the forum about 3 weeks ago after I got my 1993 W250. It's a standard cab, factory 5spd truck. 272k. Bone stock, except for the fact that it rolls coal, which I think is because somebody tuned on the stock pump a bit. Today on the way home from work, a massive fuel leak sprank from somewhere on the injection pump. I cant tell exactly where it is coming from yet, but It is coming out QUICK.


I was told the stock VE pumps suck. So, Is it time to upgrade? what is my smartest move?

thanks guys

maybe368

A photo of where it is coming from would be helpful and the above may be considered blasphemous by some around here. Welcome by the way...Mark

DOZENVALVE

there is a lot of fittings on the injection pump. i know that it is coming from somewhere on there but i just cant tell where because everything is a mess.

thanks Mark

maybe368

I am no expert on the ve, but it seems that if it is gushing out, it may be a loose injector line or maybe the line from the fuel filter. Is it rusty? Is it shooting out under high pressure, possibly a loose or perforated injector line, or is it more of a flow, could be the line from the fuel filter. My only experience with a leaking pump was just a drip. Hopefully the ve experts will chime in...Mark

DOZENVALVE

well on sunday im going to get in there and check it out. i just wanted to post now in case there was some kind of common pump failure that somebody may know about. ill chime back in sunday after i check it out and let you guys know what i find. until then i will take all the advice i can get from the pros here on DTR.

twichit

this is my 2 cents first off whoever told you that the "stock" ve sucks was not correct, stock those pumps do a good job tuned properly they can be like opening a can of whop butt ...I guess at this point my question would be is the leak coming from the top half or the bottem half ..

DOZENVALVE

Okay. Well I'm going to disregard that the ve is crap, and give it a good second chance. And I should have looked closer man. I'm gonna have to get a better idea of what's going on Sunday and chime back in.

93-12Smoke

If by suck you mean it's reliable, gets great fuel mileage when tuned properly and can double the power your truck made stock for almost free then yeah they suck.


I'll give you five dollars for it.

Dry it off and clean it as best you can then have a buddy crank it and try to find where the wet spot starts.

twichit

hose the pump down with brak klen and wipe it dry with a nice clean rag ...repeat until clean ...the leak will show up pretty quick then

NJTman

That's how I would do it, except I'd use compressed air to clean up the mess.

Once you crank it over, it should tell you where it's coming from



BTW....

You should put your trucks info in your signature and let someone know where you live. Maybe you can hook up with another member, and figure out where it's coming from



Bad mojo telling everyone that you heard VE's suck. I guess you haven't read this thread, huh ?

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...e-t313287.html

His truck ROCKS, and it's a VE

DOZENVALVE

Just to clear things up, I don't think VE's suck. I'm new to cummins diesels and don't know anything about them. My local diesel shop told me that he VE's are junk. Probably be auss he wanted me to pay him money to upgrade it. There is a current post on here title "who says a VE can't compete" and the guys truck is sick. Makes 900ft/lbs. I was simply stating what I was told.

I cleaned the pump today and had a friend fire the truck for me. FUEL is cascading down the back side of the pump where I can not see. I definately know it's not comi from the low pressure feed or the 6 high pressure injector lines. I can also tell for sure it is not coming for the seal between the pump and the pump top. I feel I need to remove the entire pump to find a bad spot.

I have been watching the old Chrysler videos on removing the pump and the only things I'm worried about are making sure I keep the pump in the right position with the engine so when I put it back in they are perfect as far as TDC and whatnot. I also need to get a t bar puller for the gear and a 13mm curved wrench. Everything else I am comfortable taking apart. I got a set of crosws feet wrenches today.

In the mean time I worked on my KDP mod. I got the new bolt and tab in today in about 3 or 4 hours. And now I just need To go get a timing cover gasket and put it back together. (Minus the oil filler tube so that I can remove the injector pump)

Also sounds like its time for a a 366 spring while all this is going on? I also had trouble locating one at genos garage. Not sure where the best place is to pick this up. I will probably remove the throttle stop as well. It seems there are no reprocussions to that mod.

DOZENVALVE

And yes his is he truck I was talking about and it kicks ***.

maybe368

You should probably leave the timing cover off until you remove the injector pump. It would be easy to put it on tdc, because you can see the marks. Also, if the woodruff key comes out, you will see it and be able to fish it out. I think all in all the job is pretty ez with the cover on, but is easier with the cover off. Also this is a good time to replace the front seal. I assume that you have the radiator out? Even easier..Mark

DOZENVALVE

I still have the radiator in. There is quite a bit of room even with it in once you pull the fan. And yeah I will leave the cover off until I fix the pump. Obviously it will be easier. Do you have any idea what could be leaking in the backside of the pump? The only place I can't see?

maybe368

I am not a pump expert. I just changed mine with a reman unit. I am sure the pump experts will chime in, but I don't remember that there are any exterior components on the engine side, but it is possible, I only removed mine once. It is pretty easy. I was able to get a ratchet, 1/4" IIRC, using wobble extensions that locate the ratchet behind the pump to get at the hidden nut or bolt. Told you I'm not an expert and I don't remember which, bolt I think. I don't think that it is a big deal about the pump in the right spot, just line up the key with the gear. The way the FSM says to do it puts the woodruff key at 6 o'clock, which makes it ez to knock down into the engine, so many people rotate the engine so that the key is at 12 o'clock. This is not as critical if the cover is off, because you will be able to see that the key stays in. There are threads on this, check the sticky for pump removal