Low Vacumn Warning Switch
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Den,
My light comes on sometimes at stop signs and lights. If I stop soon after the pedal is very stiff. Does this sound like your problems? If so I guess I better look into a new booster.
My light comes on sometimes at stop signs and lights. If I stop soon after the pedal is very stiff. Does this sound like your problems? If so I guess I better look into a new booster.
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Cape Coral, FL
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sounds like my problems before the new booster. It may be the booster...or just that there is a vacuum leak and the lower RPM and applying the brakes is making it show itself.
If you have a vacuum gauge, even a cheapo one, you can test the vaccum in the system with the brakes applied and not applied to see if there is a change. That would definately show a booster problem. A gauge can around $20 or less like the Mityvac 05511. I've seen them at the tool outlet stores
Check the condition of the connectors at the vacuum switch ( on drivers side inner fender), the cruise acutator and at the booster check valve. If they look good, close the door and apply the brake in park, and listen for a quiet hissing inside the cab from the brake booster. I could hear mine with the door closed..very faintly. Try different pressures on the brake too. Just barely pushing it down and what would be halfway between released and fully applied and listen.
For $80, if it is the original it wouldn't hurt to swap it out. It's very easy.
)Remove vacuum lines from brake booster check valve.
)Remove 4 nuts holding master cylinder to brake booster and leave brake lines hooked up.
)Move master cylinder slightly forward out of your way.
)Remove bolt holding brake booster rod from brake pedal.
)Remove the 4 nuts holding the brake booster to firewall from under dash.
)Remove booster.
**Important: Check front rod adjustment on old booster (goes into back of master cylinder) and set the new booster accordingly. It's in the instructions...hidden in there..how to set the end of the rod. Basically set it to what the old boosters rod length was.
)Reverse and install.
It's a real quick and easy job.
Den
If you have a vacuum gauge, even a cheapo one, you can test the vaccum in the system with the brakes applied and not applied to see if there is a change. That would definately show a booster problem. A gauge can around $20 or less like the Mityvac 05511. I've seen them at the tool outlet stores
Check the condition of the connectors at the vacuum switch ( on drivers side inner fender), the cruise acutator and at the booster check valve. If they look good, close the door and apply the brake in park, and listen for a quiet hissing inside the cab from the brake booster. I could hear mine with the door closed..very faintly. Try different pressures on the brake too. Just barely pushing it down and what would be halfway between released and fully applied and listen.
For $80, if it is the original it wouldn't hurt to swap it out. It's very easy.
)Remove vacuum lines from brake booster check valve.
)Remove 4 nuts holding master cylinder to brake booster and leave brake lines hooked up.
)Move master cylinder slightly forward out of your way.
)Remove bolt holding brake booster rod from brake pedal.
)Remove the 4 nuts holding the brake booster to firewall from under dash.
)Remove booster.
**Important: Check front rod adjustment on old booster (goes into back of master cylinder) and set the new booster accordingly. It's in the instructions...hidden in there..how to set the end of the rod. Basically set it to what the old boosters rod length was.
)Reverse and install.
It's a real quick and easy job.
Den
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I definetly hear a very slight hissing sound, I mean very slight. Well I guess it is the booster. Will that remedy the stiff pedal, here I was thinking that I have to bleed the whole system again.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Bobcat698
12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
6
11-21-2005 03:19 PM