Lots of smoke at cold start, would like it to go away
11-02-2015, 07:06 AM
#61
Registered User
Yep. If the spray angle is wider than design, the gasket should be thinner to compensate. There are several thicknesses available.
11-02-2015, 07:59 AM
#63
Banned
11-02-2015, 08:12 AM
#64
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11-02-2015, 08:15 AM
#65
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[QUOTE=j.fonder;3288562]"what size band aid is optimum for a gun shot wound?"
I think Dick Cheney prefers gauze pads when he goes quail hunting.
I think Dick Cheney prefers gauze pads when he goes quail hunting.
11-02-2015, 02:37 PM
#67
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Update:
two days ago I turned the smoke screw CCW 1/2 turn. (the scre directly on top of the pump under the cap) I fired up the truck and BLUE SMOKE. I drove it around and warmed it up and did a WOT pull with the truck. this time it only made 40lbs boost. before I swapped injectors I was making around 47lbs. I am assuming this change is because of the injectors or maybe because I turned that smoke screw down a bit. I wasn't sure.
today, after the truck sat for 2 days unplugged, I turned the smoke screw CCW another 1/2 turn. I turned the key, the grids cycled, and I fired it up. BLUE SMOKE again. I let it run for 15 seconds more and shut it off.
then I proceeded to do another 1/2 turn CCW, so I was now 1-1/2 turns out CCW. I turned the key again, grids cycled, and I fired it up. still, BLUE SMOKE. so I let it run for a few and ran down to oreillys.
5 minute drive to the parts store, and I let it idle out front. went it, bought cetane booster, came out, and ZERO blue smoke now that it was at operating temp.
on the way back to the fuel stop, I did a WOT pull again, now at 1-1/2 turns CCW on the smoke screw, the truck made 40lbs boost again. so it seems that DDP injectors made my truck make less boost, which makes NO SENSE to me, maybe I am leaking boost somewhere?
on another note,backing that smoke screw out hardly affected my smoke, I can still lay a decent trail of black behind me if I want. maybe it is not quite as thick, but it is still there.
besides all of that, STILL HAVE BLUE SMOKE AT COLD IDLE.
I filled up the truck and added cetane booster. ill bur through this tank and see what happens.
anyhow, I am running a BD fuel pin. are these notoriously smokey? could I have installed it wrong some 2 years ago, causing this issue? DDP suggests using their fuel pin with their injectors, should I try that?
today, after the truck sat for 2 days unplugged, I turned the smoke screw CCW another 1/2 turn. I turned the key, the grids cycled, and I fired it up. BLUE SMOKE again. I let it run for 15 seconds more and shut it off.
then I proceeded to do another 1/2 turn CCW, so I was now 1-1/2 turns out CCW. I turned the key again, grids cycled, and I fired it up. still, BLUE SMOKE. so I let it run for a few and ran down to oreillys.
5 minute drive to the parts store, and I let it idle out front. went it, bought cetane booster, came out, and ZERO blue smoke now that it was at operating temp.
on the way back to the fuel stop, I did a WOT pull again, now at 1-1/2 turns CCW on the smoke screw, the truck made 40lbs boost again. so it seems that DDP injectors made my truck make less boost, which makes NO SENSE to me, maybe I am leaking boost somewhere?
on another note,backing that smoke screw out hardly affected my smoke, I can still lay a decent trail of black behind me if I want. maybe it is not quite as thick, but it is still there.
besides all of that, STILL HAVE BLUE SMOKE AT COLD IDLE.
I filled up the truck and added cetane booster. ill bur through this tank and see what happens.
anyhow, I am running a BD fuel pin. are these notoriously smokey? could I have installed it wrong some 2 years ago, causing this issue? DDP suggests using their fuel pin with their injectors, should I try that?
11-02-2015, 03:43 PM
#68
Banned
the BD fuel pin is one of the better pins, not as smoky as denny or mh. it has a nice ramp, not too deep, I would keep it!
the smoke screw does very little, it's mainly for pre-boost fueling/smoke. i'd just run it up until it's flush with the inside of the AFC cover and leave it. smoke screw will not change your max boost. this is what it looks like on the inside when I say "flush"
the starwheel will be what you need to adjust to get rid of that black cloud. not sure where you're at now, but 2 turns up from the stock position is a good place to start. this puts preload on the AFC spring and requires more boost to lower the fuel pin and increase fueling. more boost before fueling = less smoke.
where is your fuel screw at? turned in from stock?
the smoke screw does very little, it's mainly for pre-boost fueling/smoke. i'd just run it up until it's flush with the inside of the AFC cover and leave it. smoke screw will not change your max boost. this is what it looks like on the inside when I say "flush"
the starwheel will be what you need to adjust to get rid of that black cloud. not sure where you're at now, but 2 turns up from the stock position is a good place to start. this puts preload on the AFC spring and requires more boost to lower the fuel pin and increase fueling. more boost before fueling = less smoke.
where is your fuel screw at? turned in from stock?
11-02-2015, 05:50 PM
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the BD fuel pin is one of the better pins, not as smoky as denny or mh. it has a nice ramp, not too deep, I would keep it!
the smoke screw does very little, it's mainly for pre-boost fueling/smoke. i'd just run it up until it's flush with the inside of the AFC cover and leave it. smoke screw will not change your max boost. this is what it looks like on the inside when I say "flush"
the starwheel will be what you need to adjust to get rid of that black cloud. not sure where you're at now, but 2 turns up from the stock position is a good place to start. this puts preload on the AFC spring and requires more boost to lower the fuel pin and increase fueling. more boost before fueling = less smoke.
where is your fuel screw at? turned in from stock?
the smoke screw does very little, it's mainly for pre-boost fueling/smoke. i'd just run it up until it's flush with the inside of the AFC cover and leave it. smoke screw will not change your max boost. this is what it looks like on the inside when I say "flush"
the starwheel will be what you need to adjust to get rid of that black cloud. not sure where you're at now, but 2 turns up from the stock position is a good place to start. this puts preload on the AFC spring and requires more boost to lower the fuel pin and increase fueling. more boost before fueling = less smoke.
where is your fuel screw at? turned in from stock?
okay, I humored you and went ahead and back out the smoke screw until even with the top cover on the inside, and re assembled.
ill have to check the star wheel and the fuel screw. the fuel screw does not have that cover over the stud, so I assume it has been tampered with. but, as far as where the star wheel and fuel screw are, what are stock positions on those? if I could just start over from stock with these setting then I would have a base to start tuning from again.
11-02-2015, 07:44 PM
#71
Check your intercooler to intake plenum boots and turbo to intercooler boots. Mine hazed also, and I kept putting off the hoses cause I figured I had the constant tension spring type heavy duty hose clamps on there and a boost leak was out of the question. Just recently while doing stuff under the hood, I decided to check them, and even though they looked tight, the 2 at the intercooler were loose; loose meaning no way a boot could pop off, but loose by way of feel. When compared to the other clamps, there was way too many turns clockwise to be had. Sure enough, a lot of my idle haze went away. I believe the rest of my slight haze, or what's left of it, has to do with a faulty KSB switch, as it's not providing any power to the KSB. Still trying to get my head wrapped around it all as far as the KSB. Yeah, check those clamps, and also the line from the head into the AFC top. Any water meth tubing to the spray injectors should be replaced if you have that set up, cause over time those tubes can get brittle and the quick connects just don't bite like they did when the tubing was new, causing boost leaks
11-02-2015, 08:07 PM
#72
Registered User
Dad runs a set of BD "Non intercooled 40 horse" injectors (145* spray angle) in his "intercooled" engine that he swapped into a '75 F250. He has no grid heaters and the KSB is fixed so it never does anything. It runs a timing spacer and the pump is pushed to the head.
Anyways, at 20* with out being plugged in it pops right off (not surprising) and has absolutely NO haze.
I have emailed BD trying to find out the hole count, hole size, and tip design but they will only tell me the spray angle.
In other words, you might try advancing the timing.
Also, I don't think that AFC setting will, or even can, have any effect on the fueling at idle. The only time that the AFC does anything is when the engine is accelerating.
Anyways, at 20* with out being plugged in it pops right off (not surprising) and has absolutely NO haze.
I have emailed BD trying to find out the hole count, hole size, and tip design but they will only tell me the spray angle.
In other words, you might try advancing the timing.
Also, I don't think that AFC setting will, or even can, have any effect on the fueling at idle. The only time that the AFC does anything is when the engine is accelerating.
11-02-2015, 10:25 PM
#73
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Check your intercooler to intake plenum boots and turbo to intercooler boots. Mine hazed also, and I kept putting off the hoses cause I figured I had the constant tension spring type heavy duty hose clamps on there and a boost leak was out of the question. Just recently while doing stuff under the hood, I decided to check them, and even though they looked tight, the 2 at the intercooler were loose; loose meaning no way a boot could pop off, but loose by way of feel. When compared to the other clamps, there was way too many turns clockwise to be had. Sure enough, a lot of my idle haze went away. I believe the rest of my slight haze, or what's left of it, has to do with a faulty KSB switch, as it's not providing any power to the KSB. Still trying to get my head wrapped around it all as far as the KSB. Yeah, check those clamps, and also the line from the head into the AFC top. Any water meth tubing to the spray injectors should be replaced if you have that set up, cause over time those tubes can get brittle and the quick connects just don't bite like they did when the tubing was new, causing boost leaks
thanks man, no water meth, but ill double check all my intercooler boots.
Dad runs a set of BD "Non intercooled 40 horse" injectors (145* spray angle) in his "intercooled" engine that he swapped into a '75 F250. He has no grid heaters and the KSB is fixed so it never does anything. It runs a timing spacer and the pump is pushed to the head.
Anyways, at 20* with out being plugged in it pops right off (not surprising) and has absolutely NO haze.
I have emailed BD trying to find out the hole count, hole size, and tip design but they will only tell me the spray angle.
In other words, you might try advancing the timing.
Also, I don't think that AFC setting will, or even can, have any effect on the fueling at idle. The only time that the AFC does anything is when the engine is accelerating.
Anyways, at 20* with out being plugged in it pops right off (not surprising) and has absolutely NO haze.
I have emailed BD trying to find out the hole count, hole size, and tip design but they will only tell me the spray angle.
In other words, you might try advancing the timing.
Also, I don't think that AFC setting will, or even can, have any effect on the fueling at idle. The only time that the AFC does anything is when the engine is accelerating.
11-03-2015, 08:23 AM
#75
Banned
non-ic - 155*
IC - 145*
I'm assuming the injectors he's referring to are just marketed as equivalent to a non-ic injector?
the afc settings should not have an impact on your idle, I was more referring to the big cloud of smoke you mentioned when I was talking about adjusting the pump. for stock settings, all pumps were different. if you bottom out the star wheel and then back it out (CCW) 2 turns, that's a good starting point for "stock". with your fueling, I would go at least 2 more turns up (CCW). the AFC spring in an IC truck is weaker than the non-ic as well, so you usually have to go a turn or 2 more with it to get rid of the smoke.
your fuel screw however, could indeed have an impact on your hazy idle. does it have the tacked on collar still around the screw? i'd try backing him out 1 full turn and see what happens to your haze.
IC - 145*
I'm assuming the injectors he's referring to are just marketed as equivalent to a non-ic injector?
the afc settings should not have an impact on your idle, I was more referring to the big cloud of smoke you mentioned when I was talking about adjusting the pump. for stock settings, all pumps were different. if you bottom out the star wheel and then back it out (CCW) 2 turns, that's a good starting point for "stock". with your fueling, I would go at least 2 more turns up (CCW). the AFC spring in an IC truck is weaker than the non-ic as well, so you usually have to go a turn or 2 more with it to get rid of the smoke.
your fuel screw however, could indeed have an impact on your hazy idle. does it have the tacked on collar still around the screw? i'd try backing him out 1 full turn and see what happens to your haze.