JustRamIt91

I am tired of not having a "legal" exhaust, and don't want to spend more money on it.
So i almost decided to pop a hole in the bed and turn that pipe straight up behind the cab. One thing i would like to do is mount it on the outside of the frame, but looks too expensive(difficult way of doing it)

What sort of muffler should i use? maybe something that will stop the cans from getting stuck below the bend...should i weld in some expanded metal? would this act like a muffler and would it hold up to the heat?

Basically im looking for your opinions and input on this subject

unixcowboy

Just got tired of my 4" -> 5" hanging below my frame so I redid it to run outside the frame in the front.
There is enough room to trim a 4" DP ~ 5" above the frame and then attach a 6" 90* elbow to the DP. you can rotate the elbow so it fits under the frame and is still about the same clearance as the trans pan. Then another 90* elbow will get you headed back toward the bed...The 2nd elbow needs to be trimmed and fitted into the area outside the frame.

I'll try to get a couple of pics in the next day or two and get them posted.

JustRamIt91

Thanks! at that point i may just do a side pipe

G1625S

Stack it! Then you get this:

schamran

My 5" turnouts don't really get very hot. I can hold my hand on them for minutes, even in hot weather. I have never checked them when my pyro reads 1250* though.

92smokin blacky

I welded some expanded metal in my hood stack and it didn't seem to affect the sound much, if anything I think it sounded a little louder. Definately didn't affect the flow or the flame comin out of it at night. But I think it'd be a good idea to weld a piece of it in there right before your stack mount.

JustRamIt91

Yeah i'm thinking i should chop cut and re-weld the down pipe and use the $44 2' flex piece as my elbow to take it straight UP through the corner of the bed :-D

Crossy's son

I was also wondering how to run it outside the frame...i was thinking a quick dip under the frame and up would be good. I was afraid it'd be too low but people run side pipes under the frame all the time and that's virtually the same thing as a pipe 90*in'g around the bottom of the frame. I want the pipe coming up in the corner of the bed and then just stick the stack on. so a 4x8 sheet of plywood will still fit

G1625S

Amen to that My only gripe with stacks is that they ruin a perfectly good 8' bed. I pick on my g/f's '08 f350 crew cab short box 'cause it won't haul a lousy piece of plywood with the tailgate up...then I put my stacks on...and my tail between my legs

JustRamIt91

thats my main thing, being able to carry plywood or drywall with the tailgate up... im gonna yank that gooseneck hitch off, patch the rust holes and drill another. Hopefully i can get it in front of the passenger side wheel well.

EatMorePossum

I've seen some exhaust with the pipe out to the side of the truck and then out to a stack, but then again those can be dangerous you or your passenger are not careful.

I Think it would be cool to have a stack that unbolts when hauling stuff like plywood, and if you could come up with some kind of Cap that goes over it when hauling. Then have a 3 way T exhaust adapter connected to your exhaust from the engine, and a secondary exhaust pipe that runs out the side of the truck when your stack is capped off.

JustRamIt91

yeah i thought about that too, i forget who it was, but that was pretty cool. I am one to change my mind on things, but i'm going to commit to this for at least 6 months. I also want to make a tethered cap that i can stick on every time i park the truck, then when i start it up, she blows off like a cork and lands in the bed of the truck. This would work nice in keeping foreign junk out of the stack. Then again sould would welding in a piece of expanded metal.

KD93

David/BC847 has one. There's some pictures around here somewhere. And like everything else on his truck, it's neat, clean, completely useable and looks good too! Although I think his 'up-pipe' to the stack goes through the bed still, not sitting just underneath. Makes it a lot easier to strap the stack on!

andyt

I ran my stack piping outside of the frame rail on my crewcab. I made a 4" down pipe coming out of the fender well over the frame rail. It then hugs the frame all the way back to the 90* elbow up into the bed. In the stack, I built kinda of a resonator. I cut the bottom 18" off the 5" stack, then I welded a 12" piece of 4" pipe centered inside the 5" stack, located closer to the top. On the 4" piece, I cut and bent small notches into the center kinda like a glass pack. Then on the bottom I welded a 7" square plate with a 8" long piece of 4" pipe welded to it. This is what sticks down through the bed to connect with the elbow. In the pics the flex pipe was just temporary. I ran out of 4" pipe and I had this laying around.

It cut out almost all of the drone that you get with the stack and I can hardly hear it with the windows up.

AndyT

unixcowboy

Referring back to post #2 :

Got tired of my system ducking under the frame - and a 5" pipe does sit low

Took some time and a little fabrication but the pics show the results. Came out decent, actually cut the noise, and the best thing is the wife doesn't complain about the slight leaks that were in the old setup.


pic 1 :I had to 'massage' a DP because my HX40 has a 50 exhaust housing with a 4 1/2" flange instead of the standard ring.
pic 2 & 3 : used a 90* to get under the frame and it's actually about 1/2" higher than the trans pan.
pic 4 : used a 45* to get the connection to a 4" to 5" adapter and into the tailpipe.
The far end of the tailpipe exits the side of the bed and runs up alongside my topper. I've got a rusty pipe protector that is going to get chromed - or replaced with a SS one - as soon as $$ allow. looks like this :
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...4&d=1263584416

You could run your pipe to the bed and the up instead of out the side like I did. I need to get a more in focus pic of the old girl, don't I