This kinda goes hand in hand with sammy340`s post but I did`nt want to hijack his thread . I put the POD`s in Sunday, today I figured what the heck and turned the AFC pin and installed a thinner washer, wich BTW I have read that you thin the washer down by .090. I measured the original and it was right at .125. Did a little digging and found a copper fuel line gasket the same inner&outer diameter but was right at .030, so I used that instead. Took the truck for a spin and my cheeks started hurting again ....SOOOO what`s a fella to do you ask??? Why turn more screws of course! I pulled out the full fuel screw and removed the lock collar, then reinstalled it about 1 1/2 turns past where it was (you could tell by the oxidation witness marks on the screw where the locknut WAS). My question is, when you guy`s are referring to "going "x" amount of turns PAST the lock collar do you mean running the locknut up into the part of the screw where the collar was? This part of the screw BTW has the threads flattened slightly from the collar. As it is now the locknut is right up to the part where the threads start to flatten out...sooo can i go more?? Inquiring minds want to know Oh and the max boost now is just touching 30....I knew I shoulda got the 60psi gauge One last thing...I GOT SMOKE! WOO-HOO!

 

Yeah, you have to use a die to dress the threads where the collar was to get full potential out of the truck.

 

Cool, I was thinking that that area might be in the danger zone . Guess I`ll have to "push" the envelope a little more I`ll post an update when I get some more time to mess with it.

 

Chrislib, sounds like i need to do some more pump modifications. Max PSI i can hit with the POD's seems to be 25-26 at WOT in 5th. I have the 18.5 housing but i think i should still see more boost then that. I

 

Chris,
If you have only .030 shim under the ecentric cone than you are defeating your purpose.
If you look at the tapered cone you will see where the fuelpin has been riding, at some point in time it will go to the lowest part of that cone (wich is maximum fuel) and if you go any farther than you will lose fuel. Im not sure if that makes sense to you. That shim only controls the total travel of that cone which you want to be at max fuel. I found that shoud be, on my truck, about .090
Oh, heck, just buy an old smokey power pin, it will give you a new cone and washer, and you will gain another 28HP to the tires
Oh by the way, with PODs and the fuel screw cranked and a 16 housing, you ought to be seing 33 PSI in the cool of winter.
My friend has a stock 92, he put a 16 housing on and cranked the screw and gets 24 PSI ant 4600 elevation
Just some food for thought
Have fun

PS
with my mods I saw 44 PSI this winter, but for some reason I have a little coolant seeping out the head gasket

 

The best way to check that your power screw is IN too far is by reving up the motor in Neutral or Park. You should be able to rev it up and it should rev RIGHT back down. if it seems to HANG revved too high and then come down. That is very close to a run-away motor and you need to turn your power screw back out a little. You wouldn't want a run-away while driving down the road

If you get a run-away, the only way is shut it off is by blocking the air flow going into the Turbo. So you would need to yank of the inlet fast and block the turbo with a board or something solid to stop the air. I strongly suggest NOT to use your hand... stumby might be the result.

 

I see what yer sayin, (correct me if I`m wrong ) that if the washer is TOO thin then the AFC pin will begin riding on the upper portion of the taper, where it starts to get larger again...correct? If so then I`m going to have to investigate . What I did notice, but did not measure is that the witness marks on the cone did not go all the way to the narrowest prtion. I figured, as per what i had read on dodegram.org that by having a .125 washer minus .030 = .095 wich is .005 larger than what was recomended to remove. I`ll run it like this for a bit and re-ck the eccentric cone to see if there are any witness marks to tell a tale . Oh, and a Smoky pin is in the plan,AND a 3200 spring AND a REAL torque converter, AND at least a shift kit for the trans (I hope my wife NEVER reads these posts...or I`m done,LOL) ,just out of $$ right now

Nuttymopar, I did the "float" the throttle check immediately after i re-started it and no problems returning to idle, I still think I have a ways to go on the screw before I run into the danger zone, either way, any future pump tweaking will take place with the intake loosened and a board handy.

 

I used a piece of 1/2 cpvc pipe to make a smaller washer. Same od and id. Easy to work with to get to the right length you want, especially if you have a small lathe.

 

I guess that might be the problem with my truck,The screw is frozen.I can't even back it out.And I dont think it is maxed because I think it would have runaway by now.But I just can't see why it wont move either way?Any ideas?

 

did you use a 1/2" wrench to losen the lock nut?

 

Yes sir' I did,It won't move at all.I guess it catching on those messed up threads or something?Also Rebal,did you gain anything from removing the eccentric spring?

 

Yeah, it's probably jammed on the buggered threads. Don't try too hard to back it out, you may twist it off.

 

OH BOY would THAT suck !

 

So if I could get the threads cleaned up,you think it will go farther?I just don't know how with it being locked up.