bannerd

What do you guys think of lizard skin? I'm in the middle of stripping my Cab to bare metal and my brother brought up a good idea. What will I use for sound proofing? I jumped online and I did some digging around. Hush-Mat and lizard skin seem to be really good products and much talked about. My only concern is with lizard skin it's impossible to remove (from what I hear). I wonder if paint remover would removed it. The reason I would like to go with a matt is because of the removal. Although a Matt will not get into every nook and cranny either, so I assume lizard skin is superior here.

Removal down the road in the next thirty years might be something my son or daughter will have to do. I want to keep the 12V in the family and with time there will always be rust.

bryson711

Check into fatmat this is what I'm using in the crew. I put 2 layers in and then have mass backing carpet for it. I also put 2 layers behind the dash and in the doors. No reviews yet though, have not finished it yet.

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mknittle

A lot of guys are using this. read the reviews there are a lot of car guys.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_154017-81326...2#BVRRWidgetID

BarryG

Check this place out. It has some great ideas. They do sell products as well but at the least it will give you a good idea on the proper way to do it to get the most out of it.
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

10 years ago I used dynamat extreme and another product called brown bread (another product similar to dynamat). I used a layer on the inside of the outside door skin as well as a layer on the inside of the inside door skin, 2-3 layers on the floor and went as far up the firewall as I could go and 3 layers on the back wall of the cab. I used approx. 235sf of the stuff. Did it help yes it did, is it quiet no. I didn't measure the db before and after but you could definitely tell it was better but it is far from quiet and in all honesty I wish I would have known this info then. Back then it was mostly about multiple layers of dynamat or the like and the hardcore folks also used dynamat with lead sheeting which is heavy, expensive and not that easy to work.

IMO if you are going to go to the trouble of tearing the interior apart you might as well do it up right. Even if it means waiting a bit longer to save up a little more cash. I had about $300 into my endeavor and if I did my math right based on his pricing another 100 -150 would have got it done right with significantly better results. I have no doubt based on my experience with his method on another vehicle it would have cut my perceived sound level in half from where it is at now.

bannerd

I sprayed wurth underbody on the underside of the cab. Maybe I should run that inside the cab as well and in the doors?



About a 13Mil of rubber, expensive but I want to do it right. It comes off with aircraft remover.

mknittle

I am going to do most of my 52 GMC cab after I get it painted. I will probably do my dodge to.

there have been many discussions on message boards about Peal and seal being a less expensive alturnitive to Dyna mat.

bannerd

Yeah, I'm going to grab some at my lowes and see how it works. Sounds like it would be a good idea. I'm thinking I might do a combination, spray in and then peal and seal.

peckens

If you applied the lizard skin why would you want to remove it?

thrashingcows

Because no product is water tight forever. Therefore rust will be an issue....eventually. I'd rather have the option to remove everything...clean, repaint and then re-install.

Me I'm going with a thin rubber matting first, then using a product called mighty mat, then the carpet.

I'm also regretting having my box LineX'd.....It is already pealing off my tailgate, and I can only imagine the rust that might be building up under the bed coating. I will probably start to wire wheel it off this coming summer....I want it OFF!!

peckens

They must have done a lousy prep job. I would take it back and have them redo it.

Philip

I have lizard skin in my cab.

Trying to remove it will be hard. It woud take a grinder to get threw it. I have had to remove a couple of small places. Couldn't remove it any other way.

I also have fatmat installed over it.

Do not lizard skin over bare metal. Read the prep sheets for it. It must be appilied over a painted surface.


I can't speak for your area. In my area the rust will come from the outside. On my old cab the paint was good on the inside floors. The rust came threw the under side of the floor pan.

bannerd

Yeah, I'm going to go with prep and seal in the cab and then probably lizard skin on the doors. The doors typically don't rust if treated properly. The Cab on the other hand sees the bulk of it when your wheels are spinning in the mud. Also might lizard skin the fenders and wheel wells if I have enough from the gallon solution. Currently -22F in upstate NY.

peckens

In my mind if you are repairing a rusty floor board you need a grinder and replacement metal no matter what it has on it. So I really don't understand why you wouldn't apply it. Might as well bolt on patch panels because they may rust out again and it is much easier to unbolt a panel than cut one out lol.

mknittle

Did I miss something here?

bannerd

Does the lizardskin make a sound difference inside?