Lift Pump Test?
#1
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Lift Pump Test?
I tried to prime my filter with the primer handle on the lift pump today with no luck. I know that the cam could have been out of position but after manualy filling the filter I tried a couple of times to spin the engine and prime with the handle with no luck. Murphy's Law may have stoped the cam in the wrong place every time. I will try to manualy spin the engine 90 degrees. I have a couple of questions now. For fuel pressure can I remove the low pressure bleeder screw and test there with a fuel pressure tester? I plan to do a vacuum test of the fuel pump. That should tell me if I have any restriction in the tank from either the sock or lines. I also plan to do a volume test. Those are the two tests that Alldata calls for on the lift pump. If I pull the wire to the IP solenoid will that protect the high pressure lines from getting air while I spin the engine for a volume test? Thanks for any help on this.
#2
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That bleeder is an odd size. I bought high flow banjo bolts with a pipe plug in it, that is where I tapped in with my gauge.
I think the best test is reading fuel presuure under load, that tells you if the pump can keep up.
If you have problems, I would go with that piston pump.
I think the best test is reading fuel presuure under load, that tells you if the pump can keep up.
If you have problems, I would go with that piston pump.
#3
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I agree and I do plan to install a gage. There is no such thing as to much info about the engine. My desire now is to find out if I have a problem and get it fixed without waiting for gages and fittings. My pressure gauge has a tapered adapter that I can hold in the port after removal of the bleed screw for testing if the reading at that point is a good test point?? Even after I install a gage in the dash I would still like to be able to verify when the gage shows low pressure. There is a post in the forum that indicates that an otherwise good pump can have problems priming. The truck starts and runs great but I do want to protect the IP.
#4
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Yeah, that's where you should put the gauge since it's after the filter. The stock pump puts out 8 psi best-case, so a tapered rubber adapter will seal it OK if you hold it in there.
#5
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All worked out. I went out this morning and bumped the engine. Primer worked as advertised. Pressure read a little above 7 psi. Vacuum was a little high. Probably got a cloged sock or worse considering how much trash was in that new filter. Thanks for the help.
#6
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remember, the fuel pump may read good when cold and during cranking. The true test is under full load.
But if you have 7 PSI during cranking it should start and run right away.
But if you have 7 PSI during cranking it should start and run right away.
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