Barend

I suck at math. Has anybody done this swap on a non intercooled, non AC motor? If so, what pulley and belt did you use? Thanks guys. Looks like a very good upgrade to keep the camper batteries full. Thanks for the very detailed write up!

BearKiller

I was fixing to shoot you some belt and pulley numbers and then I saw where you said "non-A/C"

It has been a loonnngggg time since I have done a Leece-Neville swap in and my memory of just what I did is a bit fuzzy.

I found the pulley(s) from an unexpected source and bought one for every engine on the place plus a couple spares.

As best I can recall, I then took them to my machinist friend and he had to do something to them before I could use them; it seems like maybe they were too thick on account of a thick protrusion on the back side pushing them out too far and he shaved that down to a thickness that would work --- but then, I may be thinking of something else --- anyhow, I did have to have the pulleys altered in some way.

It is not easy finding a pulley that is a direct fit that will also line the belt up without either having to be shimmed out or have some meat milled away; way easier for the home-body to shim one out; but, way better to start with one that is too thick and have it shaved down as then no shims are required, nor do you have to always remember to be sure and put them back in; but, with a Leece-Neville, once you mount the pulley and then mount the alternator, unless it is in the way of something else you need to do, you will never touch those bolts again.

I love my Leece-Neville 110-555s, all of them.

Most of these high-amperage alternators have to be turning several thousand rpm to achieve that amperage; the Leece-Neville is pushing it's rated 160-amps at idle --- at least from what I read about it -- I do know that, with the engine idling, I can keep turning On high draw things and it keeps up.

As for finding a belt size for your application, this requires a steady-handed helper to hold the tensioner exactly where it is with a belt installed; with a belt installed, clean off all the grime and belt dust and such; and, make a reference mark across the moving part of the tensioner and the non-moving part, so you can see this mark and know where to hold the tensioner; a well-shaken BIC Wite-Out pen is ideal for this as it makes a very bright white mark.

If you have an old serpentine belt that is too long, the longer the better, cut it squarely across; lacking an old belt to cut, you can use a 1-inch strap from one of those ratchet-straps.

Thread this belt/strap properly around all the pulleys, including your newly mounted Leece-Neville; and, with your assistant keeping the tensioner exactly where it is when the proper belt is on there, pull your belt/strap tight and mark across it where the nicely cut end comes to on the other end.

Having your assistant hold the dumb end of the tape, measure to your line and this will be very close to the length belt you will need; of course, if your assistant is the quicker of the two, you hold the dumb end of the tape and let them do the precise measuring.


I forgot to add:
Once you have your first mark on your measuring strap, have your assistant pull the tensioner to it's tightest and make another mark.

Then have them relax the tensioner almost to it's resting position and make another mark.

Between these last two marks is the usable range of belt lengths, with the tighter being the better; make note of this and you will know just what will and will not work in a pinch, like when you sling off a belt and they don't have the exact one you want, maybe they do have something that will work.

That being said, in a pinch, a six-rib will last a long time.

Barend

Sorry if this has been covered and i missed it. But can you run a rpm gauge off of this alternator?
thanks

ScubaSteveCA

I don't see why not. Youd just need a tach compatible with the number of poles (pulses) of the alternator. I've got a Delco Remy 28si and I'm using the factory tach connection under the dash with an aftermarket tach. It took some messing with and a laser tach to get it dialed in.

Barend

Ok, hoping to use my stock '75 tach. Will have to look into that

Barend

Why is pulley size different between intercooled and intercooled? I have a non ic motor, will have a 7.3 intercooler with an intercooled style fan pulley since i will be using the 91.5+ radiator. Just trying tk figure out what size pulley i need

ScubaSteveCA

I would think the pulley size is all the same for ic/non ic applications. It's a function of harmonic balancer circumference, rpm to meet the desired rpm range for the alternator. Now belt size... can't help you there, I made a custom bracket to be able to utilize a stock belt for my truck.

BearKiller

My Tachometer pickup straddles the seam between the two halves and is held in place either by a long hose-clamp or a long fat zip-tie --- I can't remember; it has been that way for years and responds quickly and accurately; prior to being on the Leece-Neville, it was on a Ford alternator on both engines, the original 6.9 I-H and the Cummins.

BearKiller

I don't know where my brains were at when I first read this question some weeks ago; I guess maybe because I had just spent several long nights getting my A/C leak found and fixed and had A/C on my mind --- although I have Super-ICE-COLD-A/C, my setup is the same as a non-A/C as my compressor is up top and driven via a V-Belt Pulley - the same V-Belt that drives the A/C compressor also drives the Red-Line trailer vacuum pulley.

I will see if I can find my records where I wrote down the pulley diameter I used and the exact Serpentine Belt I run.

I do remember that I bought four pulleys for four engines/trucks and I had to have a machinist shave quite a bit from the back side of the pulleys as they had a prominent "hump" that pushed them out too far.

Barend

Thanks man, that would be awesome!