ClassA4x4

Does the LN aternator, such as the one Jim Lane installed, have an internal regulator? If so, does the installation cause the Check Engine Light to illuminate?

wannadiesel

The check engine light is on because the PCM is not able to control the field current. Tape over it or pull the bulb.

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ClassA4x4

Thanks Dave.

I'm gonna try to study the internal regulator circuit and see if there's any way to tap into the internal regulator so that the PCM field driver can co-drive the field current. I read somewhere that the Balmar alternators can use parallel regulators.

I know for a fact that the green field driver wire (in our 1st gen PCM) can be tapped into the grounded brush (F2 terminal) of a B-circuit E/R (ext. regulated) Denso alternator when using a B-circuit IASF external regulator. The CEL stays off in this experiment. Dodge/Chrysler switched from A-circuit (type of our 1st gen alt) to B-circuit sometime in 2006 or 2007. B-circuit external regulators are common in older Ford externally regulated alternators. The alternator that I tried was a 160A Denso with hairpin type stator, commonly used in 2006-up Durangos and Jeeps. Got it from a wrecking yard for $40.

I'm also thinking of getting a Delco 28SI with integral regulator. And that's why I posed the question.

93flatbed

Call genstar tell them.your plan. Them boys got some freaky things hanging around.

ClassA4x4

Perfect. I have been looking for a local generator / alternator shop to make me a high output alternator. Thanks.

93flatbed

I take payment in beer.

BILTIT

I spoke to Adam at nationautoelectric.com, nationsstarteralternator.com, highamp.com and he said the following for my truck:

"I can provide either a later version 180HP that will output 120A at idle for $289 or a custom billet made 270A with idle output of 200A for $649."

Just an option.

ClassA4x4

The problem with these so-called aftermarket high-output alternators available in the internet or ebay is they make overrated claims for tricked units using OEM alt cases. I've concluded that the surest way to get the rated output is to buy an OEM-rated Alternator (e.g. Leece-Neville, Delco, Denso) or go to a local gen or alt shop who will do and guarantee the work. Getting an HO alt from an Online aftermarket rebuilders (Mean Green, nationalautoeectric, DC power, QuickStart, etc.) is a hit and miss proposition, there are many horror stories online, believe them.

Unfortunately, Denso does not make an OEM alt for Chrysler/Dodge rated higher than 160A. The one that I just bought online, a large case alt like the one used in the Viper and SRT-10 engines was claimed to output 200A by the electrical rebuilder/remfg. It's a nice looking one but it horribly put out only 154A when cold, and 136A when hot. OEM ones are rated 136A. Imagine all the hassle.

Delco makes a 200A unit in the 28SI series. It's a direct replacement for some Leece-Neville 160/180A models and it's lighter and can be had for less than $250 shipped. It's almost 8 inches long and just small enough to clear the oil filter on the Cummins 12V.

BILTIT

Ya i hear what you are saying. Keep us updated as i would also like to upgrade but not sure if i want to go the leece-neville route.

I may talk to our local alt. shop and see what they can do.

ClassA4x4

For some freaky thngs? I'll drink to that :-) cant find the beer-drinking smilie.

ClassA4x4

I hear you too about Leece-Neville. With due respect to Jim Lane and for LN fans, the LN is heavy and looks "dated" :-) I have no doubt it performs. But I'd rather try the 28SI if my local alt shop can't make my OEM alt put out 200A.

BILTIT

I see a 200amp version here too for $330, wonder if it puts out what they claim.

http://www.destroked.com/prod_alternators.php

ClassA4x4

My rationale is if the major alternator manufacturers (denso, delco remy, bosch, leece neville, etc) have proven through sufficient field tests that they can pack more than 136-160A in a small case frame, they would have a 180 or 200A in small case already. The 180-265A alternators available out there from the big players are all BIG. Heat is the biggest enemy and the bigger the frame, the better heat dissipation the alternator has. The 200A unit in a small case may deliver in a few weeks in heavy load, but will it last for months, years?

Many, myself included, would like to dream and believe otherwise, but at the end of the day or months or even years, after many hurdles and diappointments And expense and finally awakening, it's not realistic.

I believe, many who buy the online aftermarket so-called high-output alts that are happy with their purchase, only use their HO alts intermittently in short bursts or worse yet, they think they need to replace their 136A oem unit with a200A unit but in reality only need 150A max and that intermittently. This is where the ho alt outfitters thrive, the illusion of consumer needs.

BILTIT

Very true. I see they offer the 28si for buses. Would be great to find an upgrade that doesn't require so much fabing.

ClassA4x4

I used to be turned off by a lot of mods, until I bought a cheap welder and learned to weld. And for the past couple of years, Ive been using my TIG welder that costs less than $1000.

Anyway, the fab work to install a large alt in the cummins bay are really simple:
1. Cutting spacers for the hinge mount. That can be done with either a hack saw or with a $30 angle grinder/cutter, if you dont have one already
2. Small Scraps of 3/16 or 1/4 thick plate metal. That can be had from Lowes, home depot or the remnant bin of your local steel supply shop for free
3. Vise, for holding / bending stuff
4. Drill and bits
5. Welder, to be able to weld bracket pieces in place (i.e. The alternator in place, with the brackets bolted tight). The welding part just takes less than a minute for a couple of beads, but takes 10 minutes to set up.

And nowadays, if one couldnt weld, there are now mobile welders found in Craigslist who are willing to come to your home for a minimum hour for just $45.