apwatson50

Well I finally completed my leece neville installation pretty much following the directions in this thread started by Jim:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=55799

The biggest difference is that his truck being a NIC and mine being an IC truck is the length of the belt. I almost thought that I wasn't going to be able to use this alternator as all the parts stores said the 83" belt stock is the longest belt they had. Well I found on the goodyear website they make an 84.5" 8 rib belt part number 4080845 which I would have to order. But after some prodding of the napa guy he produced a napa belt that was like 84 3/8" long. Which I don't have the part number right now but i'll get tonight.

So I just wanted to post some pictures of my installation here. Also does it look like my belt tensioner is riding in the correct position. I think it is as its pretty close to the middle of its range.

Also there is one issue i'm still dealing with, which is going to require me to figure out the factor wiring. Since this alternator only requires one cable to the battery for wiring, I am not using any of the factory wiring harness, so I did not reinstall the harness that was attached to the OE alternator. Actually I needed part of it for the AC compressor wiring so I only installed that part of the harness. So now i'm getting the check engine light on all the time which i'm guessing is because the computer is not "seeing" the alternator or the charging.

Any ideas on how to fix this? I am thinking that the 2 small wires that went to the oe alternator I need to splice them together or attach one or both to the battery.

Instead of uploading them here I just uploaded them into photobucket so my pictures can be found here:

http://s218.photobucket.com/albums/c...Truck%20stuff/

Thanks, Aaron

Ace

That looks pretty good to me Aaron. I can't remember what my tensioner looks like right now, but I'd say just eye it up while it's running and if it's not walking around or making any noise you are probably good to go.

I want to do this too. Just waiting for the stock unit to die...

apwatson50

Yeah it looks like its running pretty good, i've got about 100 miles on it and well its still on there and not making any noises!

My stock unit died so instead of spending the money on a crappy reman I went this direction.

You don't have any ideas on the check engine light do you? Since you've about eliminated your computer?

Aaron

Ace

Maybe be a good opportunity to install an external VR?

apwatson50

Not needed as the Leece Neville has its own VR, and is self excited. So only one #2 welding cable through a 160amp fuse to the battery is what I have for wiring.

This is another reason I went this route as I wouldn't have to worry about the computer failing to regulate voltage!

I have a solid ~14.6V at the battery.

Aaron

Ace

Ah yes, forgot about that. Well, there's two or three pins on the ecu plug listed as 12v something or other, don't have the diagram in front of me right now. If you get a voltmeter on there and check, you might find at least one that's no longer getting voltage.

apwatson50

Yep thats kind of what I figured so i'll have to get the diagrams out and start checking.

BearKiller

From what I read, the Leece-Neville you are using is a "one-wire" alternator; are all Leece-Nevilles one-wire ??

I have always understood that "one-wire" alternators are not ideal in applications that have numerous electrical accessories, on account of they don't have remote voltage sensing, and thus some of the accessories will suffer from loss of voltage, while the battery will suffer from being charged too quickly.


I always understood that "one-wire" alternators were only meant for such things as simple farm-tractors, power-units, generators, and the like.




http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml




Scroll down and read "remote voltage sensing" and then read "one-wire compared to three-wire alternators".

speed75

simple farm tractors or chevys i have always changed my fords to one wire

AUGIE DOG

Aaron.things look good! I looked at pictures and the photo of circuit breakers with included snow invoked horrible nightmares!! The snow not the breakers. I no longer live in the snow areas of the country and i love it. Anyway,first question? Where does one purchase a L/N alt. and estimated cost,second question what is that filter and bracket shown in one of the photo's? Is it a coolant filter? Why did you go to this type of charging system? Good luck with everything....Augie

BearKiller

I really like the multi-breaker BUSS-bar :


http://s218.photobucket.com/albums/c...t=HPIM2841.jpg



That is home-made, right ??

What did you use to isolate it from GROUND ??

Do some of those breakers eliminate the fusible-links ??


I also noticed the piggy-back terminal-bar on the HOT marine-terminal = good idea (and something very few have thought of) until a proper remote HOT junction-block can be employed.


That is a fuel-filter, right ??

apwatson50

Well first Bearkiller i've never heard that 1 wire alternators were bad, and the only thing I can say is that Jim Lane hasn't complained about his. Other than that?...

In this picture you can see my coolant filter.

http://s218.photobucket.com/albums/c...t=HPIM2837.jpg

In this picture the fiter is the secondary fuel filter, the primary is just before it out of screen.

http://s218.photobucket.com/albums/c...t=HPIM2837.jpg

Yes the circuit breakers replace all my fusible links, had one go bad way back and it killed the power to the shut down solenoid.

Now for the circuit breaker holder is actually made by bussman and I found it at napa in their bussman catalog. They had to bring it in from their warehouse but no big deal. One thing is that they have a separate part number for breakers that don't have the bar attached to the bottom to just screw to wherever. Now you can buy these, or you can just get the common ones with the bar and break it off. Then the breakers just snap into the "buss bar". Now I did have to make the bar on the battery side of the breakers to distribute the power to them all. I made it out of 3/4" wide aluminum because thats what I had. Obviously copper would be better.

And bearkiller i've been converting all my cables to stud ends so when I need a batter i'll get a battery with studs. You should be proud. haha So anyways I had to make that piggy back deal because the stud on the adapter is not long enough for all my wires.

Any other questions?

Aaron

apwatson50

OK so the napa part number for the belt I'm using is: 080839 Just in case anyone needs it.

Aaron

BearKiller

Hmmmmm........., I wonder if that particular fuse-link might just be what causes the "about twice a year" refuses to start situation with the wife's truck.

How did you know what amperage breakers to use for each link ??

I had found some really neat maxi-fuse holders, but I like the idea of the self-resetting breakers better.



I keep several scraps of various size copper plumbing pipe around.

I use it for home-made ring-lugs and hammer it flat whenever I need a flat bar.

Hammered flat = it will be two layers, but that hasn't been a problem for my uses.



Lots of good ideas from just looking at a couple of your pictures.

Keep up the good work.

apwatson50

Well pretty much I just guessed by the wire size, but mostly I used 20amp and 30amp breakers. I also have 2 40amps for my fuel heater and something else TBD.

I like your pipe idea, have to keep that in mind if my aluminum bar ever gives me problems.

One thing on my aluminum bar which I think I may redo is to make it stick out on one side and put a 5/16" or 1/4" bolt through to anchor the power cable instead of using the post on the first breaker.

Wish I would have thought about that before I drilled the holes.

Aaron, Thanks for the compliments.