leaking transfer case and tricky headlight woes
#1
leaking transfer case and tricky headlight woes
My 1991.5 has been leaving it's mark in the driveway lately and It is coming from the T-case. I read the article in the sticky about rebuilding the thing and that seems like a big job. With 113,500 miles I doubt it needs to be rebuilt - isn't there a set of seals or gaskets that I could freshen it up with to solve my problem?
Also my passenger headlight does not always work. Whenever I first turn the lights on it may come on 5 seconds later or I may drive down the road 10 miles before it starts working - but both brights always work. I have not checked the wiring but thought I would ask you guys first if there is a common fix or trick to take care of this.
Also my passenger headlight does not always work. Whenever I first turn the lights on it may come on 5 seconds later or I may drive down the road 10 miles before it starts working - but both brights always work. I have not checked the wiring but thought I would ask you guys first if there is a common fix or trick to take care of this.
#2
Adminstrator-ess
I would bet the headlight is a bad ground. The headlight grounds are - of all places - on the top of the core support near the headlights. You'd think they'd have put them somewhere far away or at least hard to access.
#3
Registered User
If the ground doesn't cure your light, it could very well have a broken filament.
When a filament in a bulb is just broken, but still all there, the bulb will not light by simply turning on the power; but, you can jiggle the bulb, which gets the filament to vibrating, and it will strike an ARC, just like a welder, and burn until the power is turned off.
Once the power is off, the bulb will need a little shake to get going again.
This can come from something as simple as closing a door, or merely climbing into the seat, anything that will cause the filament to vibrate.
The longer it goes, the bigger the gap, requiring a harsher movement to strick the arc.
Does any of this make sense??
When a filament in a bulb is just broken, but still all there, the bulb will not light by simply turning on the power; but, you can jiggle the bulb, which gets the filament to vibrating, and it will strike an ARC, just like a welder, and burn until the power is turned off.
Once the power is off, the bulb will need a little shake to get going again.
This can come from something as simple as closing a door, or merely climbing into the seat, anything that will cause the filament to vibrate.
The longer it goes, the bigger the gap, requiring a harsher movement to strick the arc.
Does any of this make sense??
#6
Registered User
AKA the size not always included in 'big' wrench sets and 'big' socket sets . It always jumps from 1 1/4 to 1 3/8, somehow leaving out the 1 5/16. IIRC, I've run into diesel t-cases with different size nuts for the yokes. Could be the auto vs. manual transmission.
#7
Registered User
Mine leaks at the rear output shaft after a rebuild. I'm gonna have to speedie-sleeve the yoke, but nobody has a # for it, so the truck has to be down for yoke removal which, of course, I don't have time for lately
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Doj Dewd
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
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12-28-2011 04:16 PM