NJTman

Looking for help here.

I called Bill moparnut and sent him a picture, but I couldn't send him this one. Hopefully he'll chime in on this, now that he sees a picture with the arrow showing where the fuel is coming out of.

I've never had this happen before, so I'm concerned that this is one of those jobs I'm not comfortable doing myself. It appears that the fuel is coming out of an area where it shouldn't ????? Is there a seal under this cast section of the pump ?


I'm going to look through the sticky, but if you've already experienced this, it would be most appreciated to give me some direction.


Thanks

NJTman

Found the leak.


Governor shaft ...

Thanks

93-12Smoke

Yup... Gov shaft. Pull the pump you can back the shaft out slightly, count the turns and replace the seal. Turn it back in the same number of turns and tighten the lock but. Careful not to pull it to far.

bobva

How may miles you got on that truck.

NJTman

I've never removed a VE pump before.

I'm not comfortable doing the job. I'm currently looking for a shop to remove the pump for me, replace the Oring, and replace the pump.

Much easier said than done.


If I had my own enclosed facility to do the job, I would. I just can't do it on a snow covered driveway in 20*f weather.


Bob,

I have 180,000 miles on it.

bobva

20 deg snow.

I here ya

when I had my pump Rebuilt IIRC it was 650 rebuilt NOT just resealed.

For them to do the R&R of the pump I think it was another 600.

maybe368

T, if you can replace your king pins, you can remove your pump blindfolded, drunk and with a polecat hanging from your junk by its teeth. I think for 600 bucks you can live with a small leak until it warms up or you come to your senses and move to AZ. You will probably lose less than 5 dollars worth of diesel in a year, far less than 600 dollars, my learned opinion of course...Mark

93-12Smoke

Definitely an easy job but I understand what you're saying. If I were going to pay someone to reseal it I would just get it rebuilt completely.

thrashingcows

Now that is a brilliant line....

Jim Lane

Mr. NJTman

Ouch..
$600.00 would hurt for only changing $1.00 worth of parts, the governor shaft only has ONE o-ring that needs to be replaced.

You do not need to change the O-ring on your Fuel Screw at this time but this could head off another leak in the future.



Here is how:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=239076

Make sure it is not your control valve that is leaking, this will also leak from the front of the pump either down the backside of across the front over the governor shaft.

Here there are FOUR o-rings and they can be replaced easily from the outside of the truck, even in the snow.



And again here:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...15&postcount=9

BTW I just pulled my pump out last month to replace the side cover gasket, 6 lines disconnected and had the pump sitting on the bench within about 20 minuets, after I had all of my tools set out of course.

I will admit,the first time I was a little hesitant for the unknown, but quickly learned it was not difficult at all, but then I have been a diesel mechanic for years.

The trick is to have the correct tools and someone to guide you through the correct order of disassembly.

We can provide the instructions and show you how, but I hear you about the COLD, it is 48* out right now and raining and I think I am freezing, couldn't imagine being where you are.

Any way you could stuff a rag under the pump to have it last till you could get some one to help you?

Jim

bannerd

The problem is.. once that leak is fixed.. another one will start up again. For some reason that is just my luck, a complete re-seal would be something to keep in mind. When it comes down to it... just rubber gaskets breaking down.

NJTman

I found your sticky's and everything you have in there showed me that it wasn't the control valve, but the governor shaft. Either way, I'd change the control valve seals while it was out anyway.

The fuel is coming from the brass / copper washer on the governor shaft. I took Bill (onemoparnut)'s advice, cleaned the area, used compressed air, and started it up. It's definitely the Gov. Shaft seal. Yeah $1.00

There are two companies here that I spoke with. One is a rebuilder, and the other is a mechanic's shop. The rebuilder doesn't remove the pumps, they just service the pumps that are brought to them. THey said that the pump should be rebuilt for $1,765.00, which includes making sure all is to spec., replacing a few internals (not the head if worn), new seals, testing and resetting to specification. After talking to Bill, I realize this is either way Overkill, or I'm just being given the shaft without knowing how much it's going to hurt. The other place is a diesel shop that does truck (medium and heavy) repairs, and they only do the R&R. I think they want $600 to Pull and replace the pump.

After watching the Youtube videos that Chrysler put out, I realize it's not as difficult as it may seem. Problem is being in 22*F weather for 10 hours, as I'm sure I wouldn't be able to do it in 6 hours as most said it would take. Snow on the ground doesn't help either. I guess I need to find a garage I can fit my truck into and just give it a shot.

This is a big question for me.

I know I could be able to get it out, but would I be able to get it back in ? Can the pump be removed without having to re-time everything, meaning... take it out, replace the o-ring, and stick it right back in ? Then I'd have to bleed the injectors, again something I've never done.

Yeah.. Fear of doing something that I've never done, and even more fear of doing something to damage my engine.


I put a rag under it. Within a minute or two, the rag was completely soaked to the point you could wring it out and get a cup of diesel out of it. Not really sure if it's a good idea to be using the truck much at that rate of fuel loss...

Jim Lane

Yes it is that easy, as long as you do not change the timing on the engine once you remove the pump, nothing will change, I set mine to TDC and then crank it around so the pump shaft keyway is at 12:00 instead of 6:00 so it cannot fall into the timing case then stuff a rag between the gear and case just incase, mark the static timing and then pull the pump.

I mark my timing by gauging the distance between the AFC housing and the manifold using a small socket.

If you do not disconnect the lines at the injectors they will retain the fuel and the engine will restart normally before it gets to the air pocket and will usually clear out by itself.

The only tricky part in pushing the pump off the gear, you just need a stout gear/ steering wheel puller and borrow 2 bolts from your grid heater, it will pop right out.

I would set up an EZ-up with sides and a propane heater blowing inside (not airtight of course) to keep warm.

Last time I was at BECS I ask about rebuilding my pump and he said between $500-$700 and tuned to factory specs including warranty.
If you ask them to install a 3200 spring or anything not stock you get a 90 day warranty because it will not be certified to specs.
I have confidence in you.
Jim

Alec

To try to clarify what Jim was saying:


As long as you have a match mark between the flange on the injection pump and the timing case, when you put the pump back in & line up the marks, the timing will be the same, no matter what. The key in the gear, and the rotation of the pump case set the timing. (Make sure the mark is in/on the metal of cases, not just the gasket -- on some trucks the gasket is painted on to the timing case . . .)

So: You get your truck into a sheltered warmer place if possible. You have your tubing wrenches for the injector lines, and an alternator (S) wrench for that bottom injector nut and are sure you have a tool that fits everywhere you need. Then you remove the oil filler, and remove the nut holding the injector gear on, being careful not to drop anything into the timing case. (Some guys use magnets, stuffed rags, etc. Whatever makes you comfy.) Then you turn the engine over with the alternator pulley nut or whatever until the key in the injector pump shaft is pointing roughly straight up. THEN you remove the washer from under the timing lock screw on the pump, and lock the pump timing down. Leave the pump shaft locked for the duration of the re-seal, it will make it easier to re-install the pump, and if you un-lock it, it will likely "jump" suddenly from the return springs on the cam plate.

I assume I am already covering information you are familiar with from other posts at this point on . . .

When you re-install everything, leave the fuel return line banjo-bolt/restriction orifice out until everything else is re-installed. Prime the fuel manually until it flows out of the return port on the pump, then install the return line. It is very unlikely that you will have to bleed any injectors if you do this to bleed the pump first.

Double check that everything is reassembled, get in the truck & turn the key . . . Every time I have done one, the truck starts right up.

If you need to bleed injectors, just crack the nuts on 2 & 3, or whatever pair is easiest to reach, leave the hood up, and crank the truck until you see jets of fuel shooting up when those cylinders are supposed to be firing. Then tighten the nuts down again, and try to start the truck. Normally two injectors is enough to get the truck started if it is warm & everything else is good.

FWIW -- I would probably ONLY replace the governor shaft o-ring at this point, and wait to do a complete re-seal until the summer, when time & working conditions were better. But that's a call that depends on a lot of things -- I'm just saying that I would not be too scared of doing that if everything else looked good. It would save A LOT of time, and potential for problems.

The point is, it is NOT that hard. Just keep everything clean.

Good luck!!

(And don't go to the shop that wants $1,765 for a rebuild. You could buy a rebuilt pump outright for less than that! Those folks should have the polecat attached to their p----- . . .)

bobva

1765.00 That hurts

I just got off the phone with a VERY reputable shop over here.

995.00
They have nothing on the shelf right now.
They have a core that they can rebuild.