Ladder bars! Whos got them and lets see pics
03-14-2013, 09:11 PM
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Ladder bars! Whos got them and lets see pics
Really feel like I'm starting to get a lot of axle wrap especially with the lift and new power adders. Wanting to build some ladder bars and looking for ideas on style and mounting options. Truck does go off road several times a year and pull often during the summer. Not wanting something over the top and bling but do want something that is fitting for the truck and functiona.
Please post pics of what you got and how you attached them.
Feel free to add your thoughts and ideas on the topic.
Please post pics of what you got and how you attached them.
Feel free to add your thoughts and ideas on the topic.
03-15-2013, 11:05 AM
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I will be putting ladder bar's on my crewcab give me a couple Month's to get everything settled down and when I start the process I will post some pictures . over the last weekend we did dual front shock mount's and they turned out good .
03-15-2013, 12:28 PM
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You what they say about opinions... they are like you know what and we all have them but here goes.
For all around streetability and sled pullin i think pullit's set up is ideal for a couple reasons they are cheap to build yourself and most importantly you are putting all of that downward pull on your frame up by your cab instead of in the same general area as your front spring mounts like a traditional ladder bar set up does. (and it is a tremendous amount of force when pulling if you have some horsepower) Ladder bars are better suited with a boxed and reinforced frame not what our stock frames are made out of. I just dont want that kind of force pulling in that area I'd rather spread it out over a larger area. Just my opinion tho.
Now the downside. Without really tall tires they hurt ground clearance for off roading (and tall tires 38's and up dont work well for pulling) where traditional ladders you have a little more ground clearance. Others with more experience can weigh in and sway my thoughts but thats how i see it.
For all around streetability and sled pullin i think pullit's set up is ideal for a couple reasons they are cheap to build yourself and most importantly you are putting all of that downward pull on your frame up by your cab instead of in the same general area as your front spring mounts like a traditional ladder bar set up does. (and it is a tremendous amount of force when pulling if you have some horsepower) Ladder bars are better suited with a boxed and reinforced frame not what our stock frames are made out of. I just dont want that kind of force pulling in that area I'd rather spread it out over a larger area. Just my opinion tho.
Now the downside. Without really tall tires they hurt ground clearance for off roading (and tall tires 38's and up dont work well for pulling) where traditional ladders you have a little more ground clearance. Others with more experience can weigh in and sway my thoughts but thats how i see it.
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03-15-2013, 12:52 PM
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The shackle flip is a setup I got from Jungle on here however it is not bolt on for the Cummins trucks. I had to drill and locate everything.
The spring perches came from chassis unlimited and were built to my specs, the traction bar and shock mounts were blown out by a buddy of mine to my specs, and the bars were built by me. I did all the welding and fab work on the axle after I broke the crap out of everything this last summer at a pull. I also welded the tubes to the pig when I had the axle out and when i did all the fab work I relocated the axle back an inch. I also relocated the shock mounts to be like a 2nd gen or chevy style.
It seems with em setup like this it helps with wrap also.
With out the bars on I still get some bounce but it comes from frame flex as I got the short 6" early frame.
The whole rear suspension is custom now, there is nothing stock back there anymore, if you notice ts also got a D80 in it to.
The spring perches came from chassis unlimited and were built to my specs, the traction bar and shock mounts were blown out by a buddy of mine to my specs, and the bars were built by me. I did all the welding and fab work on the axle after I broke the crap out of everything this last summer at a pull. I also welded the tubes to the pig when I had the axle out and when i did all the fab work I relocated the axle back an inch. I also relocated the shock mounts to be like a 2nd gen or chevy style.
It seems with em setup like this it helps with wrap also.
With out the bars on I still get some bounce but it comes from frame flex as I got the short 6" early frame.
The whole rear suspension is custom now, there is nothing stock back there anymore, if you notice ts also got a D80 in it to.
03-15-2013, 01:34 PM
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You what they say about opinions... they are like you know what and we all have them but here goes.
For all around streetability and sled pullin i think pullit's set up is ideal for a couple reasons they are cheap to build yourself and most importantly you are putting all of that downward pull on your frame up by your cab instead of in the same general area as your front spring mounts like a traditional ladder bar set up does. (and it is a tremendous amount of force when pulling if you have some horsepower) Ladder bars are better suited with a boxed and reinforced frame not what our stock frames are made out of. I just dont want that kind of force pulling in that area I'd rather spread it out over a larger area. Just my opinion tho.
Now the downside. Without really tall tires they hurt ground clearance for off roading (and tall tires 38's and up dont work well for pulling) where traditional ladders you have a little more ground clearance. Others with more experience can weigh in and sway my thoughts but thats how i see it.
For all around streetability and sled pullin i think pullit's set up is ideal for a couple reasons they are cheap to build yourself and most importantly you are putting all of that downward pull on your frame up by your cab instead of in the same general area as your front spring mounts like a traditional ladder bar set up does. (and it is a tremendous amount of force when pulling if you have some horsepower) Ladder bars are better suited with a boxed and reinforced frame not what our stock frames are made out of. I just dont want that kind of force pulling in that area I'd rather spread it out over a larger area. Just my opinion tho.
Now the downside. Without really tall tires they hurt ground clearance for off roading (and tall tires 38's and up dont work well for pulling) where traditional ladders you have a little more ground clearance. Others with more experience can weigh in and sway my thoughts but thats how i see it.
03-18-2013, 01:47 AM
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The shackle flip is a setup I got from Jungle on here however it is not bolt on for the Cummins trucks. I had to drill and locate everything.
The spring perches came from chassis unlimited and were built to my specs, the traction bar and shock mounts were blown out by a buddy of mine to my specs, and the bars were built by me. I did all the welding and fab work on the axle after I broke the crap out of everything this last summer at a pull. I also welded the tubes to the pig when I had the axle out and when i did all the fab work I relocated the axle back an inch. I also relocated the shock mounts to be like a 2nd gen or chevy style.
It seems with em setup like this it helps with wrap also.
With out the bars on I still get some bounce but it comes from frame flex as I got the short 6" early frame.
The whole rear suspension is custom now, there is nothing stock back there anymore, if you notice ts also got a D80 in it to.
The spring perches came from chassis unlimited and were built to my specs, the traction bar and shock mounts were blown out by a buddy of mine to my specs, and the bars were built by me. I did all the welding and fab work on the axle after I broke the crap out of everything this last summer at a pull. I also welded the tubes to the pig when I had the axle out and when i did all the fab work I relocated the axle back an inch. I also relocated the shock mounts to be like a 2nd gen or chevy style.
It seems with em setup like this it helps with wrap also.
With out the bars on I still get some bounce but it comes from frame flex as I got the short 6" early frame.
The whole rear suspension is custom now, there is nothing stock back there anymore, if you notice ts also got a D80 in it to.
AC/DC stick, MIG? how many amps, rod # if stick?
And what was your procedure to prevent from warping the tubes?
Are the ends Heim or tractor PTO parts?
Just wondering.
Jim
03-18-2013, 08:22 PM
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I used an old Lincoln idealarc mig, Cant remember what wir was in it but just set the welder til it runs like I like it to.
as far as warping tubes, they are usually 3/8-1/2 ballpark and I had the axle supported at the ends and in the center. Then I would make a pass then move somewhere else make a pass and so on.
The bar ends are just tractor top links cut in half an slid inside the .135 cold rolled seamless tube my bars are made from.
as far as warping tubes, they are usually 3/8-1/2 ballpark and I had the axle supported at the ends and in the center. Then I would make a pass then move somewhere else make a pass and so on.
The bar ends are just tractor top links cut in half an slid inside the .135 cold rolled seamless tube my bars are made from.
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