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KSB (dynamic timing) Spacer Installation Thread

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Old 07-08-2014, 09:45 AM
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I ran one on my 91 for several years. A lot better than just a timing bump as you didn't loose any low end power. The only problem I ran across, and a few others noticed this too was the need to give it more throttle to start in the winter. This and another minor anomaly were later connected to a decrease in preload on the timing piston spring. I opted to remove the spacer during the winter. A different spring to correct the preload issue would be handy.
Old 07-08-2014, 02:54 PM
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Have had mine new in bag for around 7 months now. I stripped out the torx head on the bolt closest to front of vehicle and gave up trying to get my ksb off. Was getting. Tried vise grips, needle nose type, pliers, and ez out bits but no go. Aside from pulling the VE off to get to the ksb bolts anyone have other ideas I could try? Really would like to do this mod to clear up my low idle smoke from my POD's

Last edited by BC847; 07-08-2014 at 04:47 PM. Reason: Shortcut to language
Old 07-08-2014, 04:53 PM
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Oh yeah!

Stuck!
Old 07-08-2014, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by bigragu
Have had mine new in bag for around 7 months now. I stripped out the torx head on the bolt closest to front of vehicle and gave up trying to get my ksb off. Was getting. Tried vise grips, needle nose type, pliers, and ez out bits but no go. Aside from pulling the VE off to get to the ksb bolts anyone have other ideas I could try? Really would like to do this mod to clear up my low idle smoke from my POD's
1st, with POD's you need a timing bump to correct for their higher pop pressure. As far as the bolt, the only thing I can think of is drop the vacuum/power steering pump out of the way and try to cut a slot in the bolt for a screw driver blade.
Old 07-11-2014, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by cougar
1st, with POD's you need a timing bump to correct for their higher pop pressure. As far as the bolt, the only thing I can think of is drop the vacuum/power steering pump out of the way and try to cut a slot in the bolt for a screw driver blade.
I dare not.... not with my propane injection!! Might not be good...
Old 07-17-2014, 08:17 PM
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Fair warning to all the guys out there who are thinking about installing this spacer...

Check your mounting bolts to see if some .........APPLEHEAD........ overtightened the bolts that mount it in place. WHY in the world they choose to do this, I'll never know.

It's a t-30 torx from the factory, so if it's never been touched, that's what you'll need. Rear bolt... no problem. Front bolt ? Well that's the one the guys from the injection rebuilder company that you had rebuild the pump will tighten to where you can't get the bolt out....


Yeah, I know as I'm now living the fantasy on how to get the bolt out.
Old 07-17-2014, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by NJTman
Fair warning to all the guys out there who are thinking about installing this spacer...

Check your mounting bolts to see if some .........APPLEHEAD........ overtightened the bolts that mount it in place. WHY in the world they choose to do this, I'll never know.

It's a t-30 torx from the factory, so if it's never been touched, that's what you'll need. Rear bolt... no problem. Front bolt ? Well that's the one the guys from the injection rebuilder company that you had rebuild the pump will tighten to where you can't get the bolt out....


Yeah, I know as I'm now living the fantasy on how to get the bolt out.
Is it over tight, or loctite red. Heat will deal with loctite.
Old 07-19-2014, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by j_martin
Is it over tight, or loctite red. Heat will deal with loctite.
Well, it's no use...

Just like the big Ragu, I wound up stripping out that T-30, and it's not going anywhere..

I guess I just have a nice $120 parts kit sitting in my tool box from here on out, as I'm not even going to bother with it anymore.
Old 07-19-2014, 08:33 AM
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I'm not even going to try it with the back bent elbows in the truck routine. I need to do a front seal, KDP, injectors, governor spring, dynamic timing mod, and set the whole thing up from scratch, so I'm going to pull the radiator to get room to work, and tear into the whole thing all at once. With the timing cover off, I'll lock down the pump, pull it, and put it on the bench to work on it.

For small delicate screws like this one, I use a torque wrench for removal if there's room. If it goes over torque, I'll tap, heat, or whatever to get it to come loose without damage. I find it's well worth the effort to get real **** about good tools, and careful procedure.

For a stripped out one, what I would do is tap it on the end with a very small ball pein hammer till it's flattened a bit. The purpose being to stretch the screw slightly and probably loosen it some. Then stick a tack rod to it, ie draw an arc and immediately plunge the rod into the puddle to stick it. then immediately release the stinger and toss it out of the way and bend the rod over and use it as a lever to loosen the now red hot screw. It takes much longer to describe the process than execute it, as it has to be almost a flick of the wrist type move, but it's very effective. Just be sure to have a glove on your working hand as the rod will be almost as hot as the screw.
Old 07-19-2014, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by NJTman
Well, it's no use...

Just like the big Ragu, I wound up stripping out that T-30, and it's not going anywhere..

I guess I just have a nice $120 parts kit sitting in my tool box from here on out, as I'm not even going to bother with it anymore.
Amen, brotha. This is the 1st time I've purchased a mod and unable to install and use it. I feel pullin off the vac pump and power steering pump to get to it as suggested earlier makes good sense, but I know how things like that goes. Another can of worms opened, and next thing you know I'm having to fix something towards those components. I'm just going to wait it out till the vac pump leaks or the fuel pump really needs to get pulled out. Then there is a good reason to pull those components. The ksb mod would then be icing on the cake. Every time I think about the cost of that mod and on top of it the vise grips, the ez outs and various bits I bought to try and pull that front bolt out really irks me.
Old 12-08-2014, 04:09 PM
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Looks like I'm going to have to struggle some to put mine in also. Tried to remove the fitting on top of the KSB and it doesn't want to come loose. Before messing it up I need a 8mm flare nut wrench.
Old 12-08-2014, 10:31 PM
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Bigragu I would get rid of the pod's if you have a ic motor they are way to smoky n hot for my liking .I went to a 5x12
Old 12-08-2014, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Redtruck-VA
Looks like I'm going to have to struggle some to put mine in also. Tried to remove the fitting on top of the KSB and it doesn't want to come loose. Before messing it up I need a 8mm flare nut wrench.
Spend a few days using PB-8 on it prior to removal. It usually does the trick.


BTW,

Thanks to the big Ragu, I was able to install my new KSB spacer. He found a tool that was able to remove the mounting bolts. Worked like a charm....

You da man, Ragu...
Old 12-11-2014, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by NJTman
Spend a few days using PB-8 on it prior to removal. It usually does the trick.


BTW,

Thanks to the big Ragu, I was able to install my new KSB spacer. He found a tool that was able to remove the mounting bolts. Worked like a charm....

You da man, Ragu...
I went tool shopping and found a couple t-30, took one and cut it up to make a tool that I believe will fit better than the tools I first tried. What did the tool you successfully used look like? I need to go to my shop and get my pieces welded.
Old 12-11-2014, 02:55 PM
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It's in this thread.... post #7

Slammazon had them, or so did Lowes, I believe.. I got mine from Slammazon, and it worked perfectly. It grabs the steel, and removes the bolt with little issue at all..

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...spacer-319192/


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