Is the KDP a threat to all 1st generation diesels or just certain years?

 

All first gens, and most second gens as well.

 

Actually from all I've seen, read and know the case bolts are more of a threat then the KDP. I have seen more case bolts that were finger tight, then KDP's that had moved out. Don't get me wrong you should do your KDP for the peace of mind, but also make sure you pull, clean, locktite and re-torque your case bolts as well.

 

Just did mine. Dowel pin was snug in its place, but I made a tab to hold it in anyway, just for a peace of mind. I always figured with 300k on the clock I wouldn't worry about it. I'm glad I did though, because 3 out of the 6 case bolts were finger tight. And my crank seal leaked like a sieve. Its good preventative maintenance.

Jake

 

Years ago when I did My KDP the only thing mentioned was just it so when I did mine I drilled a hole in the case then tapped it and drove a SS bolt right in front of it to keep it in its position, I saw the case bolt and tightened them up just in case but had no idea I had to locktite them . I did another one a couple weeks ago on a truck with 270k miles, the KDP was IN all the way but some of the bolts where finger tight so I pulled them out and used red thread locker on them, I just don't know how many really are there. I turned the engine and could get to a couple that were behind the gears.
I've been thinking about it and just know that I will have to pull it again some day, provably really soon since there is no way to know if the is a bolt walking inside that case.

 

The KDP kit from Geno's has real good photos showing where all the case bolts are, and a handy little tube of red thread locker. But even with the rad out I needed a mirror to see and get a thin-wall socket on those bolts behind the gear.

 

When I did mine I was worried about how clean I was getting each case bolts and case bolt holes. My concern was that if everything had a film of oil the thread lock wouldn't work. I used Q-tips and acitone to clan each bore and screw and let it dry before I thread locked it. Hopefully that helped. Another question I had once I finished was I'm not sure if I was suposed to thread in and torque the screw with the lock tite still wet? Or let it dry then screw it in.

 

- Still wet.

Further, I'd use the blue lock-tight as the red requires heating the parts to over 400*F in order to soften the stuff for removal of the parts/bolts. It's covered in the lock-tight instruction.

 

Screw them in wet once it sets up that's the locking part of it. If you break locktight loose after its setup you need to reapply. Bolts and hole just need a good blow out with brake clean and the dry compressed air.

 

Ya beat me bc lol my darn phone takes to long to type out

 

I thought about that since I noticed the lock-tight included in the TST products KDP kit was red. Not sure why they decided to use red instead of blue? What an ordeal should you have to pull the gear case for whatever reason

Any down side to blue not holding up in that engine location or environment?

 

I have removed red loctited bolts without heat, just need lots of torque.

 

As an FYI:

From the Loctite website: http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products.shtml

- Loctite® Threadlocker Red 271™ is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C)

- Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is particularly suited for applications on less active substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces, where disassembly is required for servicing.

- Loctite® Threadlocker Green 290™ is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. Due to it's low viscosity and capillary action, the product wicks between engaged threads and eliminates the need to disassemble prior to application. Loctite® Threadlocker Green 290™ cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It prevents loosening from shock and vibration and leakage from shock and vibration and protects threads from rust and corrosion. The product can also be used to fill porosity in welds, casting and powder metal parts. Localized heating and hand tools are needed for disassembly.

 

My years as a HD mechanic have shown me that green is by far the hardest to remove, but it all depends on the situation as green has alittle different use.

 

Well this should be a fun job as I have yet to do my KDP