Got my new engine for 2000, its a 1997 215 horse, with 155k on it. Heard it fire before the yard pulled it, purrs like a little kitten (or I guess a really big kitten). Decided that the easiest way was to pull the front clip and take the motor and tranny out as one unit. Got the front clip off, the engine all disconnected and ready to pull tomorrow. What a pain.

 

Sweet deal...2k sounds good.... You gonna do anything to it before you put it in.. LIke maybe fix the KDP!!!

 

Yeah, thats the first **** thing I'm doing. I'm also going to slide the fuel plate, and swap over my turbo, coolertubez.

 

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Yeah, My buddy wants the injectors, ad removed. I haven't decided totally the direction I want to go with the motor. Ill let u know.

 

Glad I checked, thanks OP..

Got the cover the rest of the way off, & my pin was prairie doggin

I think I am just going to buy the tab, seal and gasket vs one of those kits.

Front crank seal part #3804899
Front cover gasket is #3914385.

Also, red or blue loctite on the bolts ?

Tyia

 

BLUE Loctite, Red is for when you never, EVER want to remove it.

Seriously, Red is not recommended for use on smaller than 3/8" bolts/

 

Guys, here is the link to the repair (again) print it ! http://www.tstproducts.com/DowelPina.pdf
One little help is glue the gasket to the cover, then take sewing thread through the holes and tie the gasket to the cover, then use your silicone over the gasket. Makes it so easy to apply the cover.

 

Front cover gasket #: could it actually be 3918673??

Goes for under $30.- at a local Cummins dealer

 

Got the killer dowel pin tabbed, new crank seal, silicone for cover gasket. Ground my own #100 Plate, slid it forward, slid the AFC forward, and adjusted the starwheel out.

Heres where the dowel pin was when I found it (new motor):

 

Thanks, thats kinda what I thought.. It looks like they are using red in those kits though, so I wanted to double check.

 

THat one is coming up as a 94-98 model, will it still work on 1st gens ? I got the other number 3914385 from the sticky..

Can someone confirm which ( or both, or neither) works ?


Dodge wants around $30, but both P/Ns are less than $20 at dieselpartsdirect.com (looks like they have the seal too for $17)

 

You want the sticky number. The cases are a little different.

 

oriellys has the entire timing set for $22

that's timing cover gasket and seal.

inspect your crank for a groove. then slide your new seal in a different spot or you may need a seal repair kit from cummins.

 

I know this was kind of said already, but for those wondering which front seal to use:

3918673 (is for 2nd gens)
3914385 (is for 1st gens)

The timing case is different, therefore so is the seal. And for the 24 valve engines, it's a whole different seal.. though I've heard you can use the 1st gen seal for the 2nd gen 24 valves (not 2nd gen 12's). The injection pump gear (for P7100) is what makes the case so different - whereas, both the 1st gens & 2nd gen 24-valves have rotary (VE & VP respectively) injection pumps. So it makes sense that the timing cases could be similar.
Please correct me if this is wrong.

Seems like many people w/ 1st and 2nd gens (12 & 24 valves) don't know about this problem. And a lot of people who know about it think it's limited to the 12-valves... it extends forward to the 24 valvers all the way to 02. The lil Cummins 4BT even has the KDP!! Whoever that Cummins designer was... needs a good beatdown! Was it 4:20 on Friday or something?

The only Cummins engines not subject to the KDP are the 3rd gen commonrails. ALL other years are suspect and even though the 01's and 02's CAN have the updated timing case (without the thru-hole that allows the KDP to walk out), there are stories of people who own multiple 24 valves from the same build & lot, but one has the old timing case & the other has the new case. Moral of the story: For you 2nd gen 24 valve owners, YOU HAVE TO CHECK YOURS **BEFORE** assuming yours has the new case. The engine CPL # and VIN won't tell you. And even if your engine has the new timing case, the other 5 bolts in the timing case could become a KDP if you don't pull them, blue Loctite them and re-tighten them down.

I'll post a link to a discussion at a neighboring forum that you all should read. And post #14 is living proof. I recommend reading the entire thread because there are conflicting opinions from credible people but you'll see what's true and what isn't by the end. GOOD thread on the KDP. Very revealing!!

http://www.dieselbombers.com/24-valv...-question.html

I'm gonna get mine tabbed this weekend hopefully - and I'm gonna try not to drive it until then!