I would get pics, but I don't have a digital camera, only my crappy phone camera. If I can get some I will deff. post em up. Also, I will do a full write up on the P-pump motor swap, as that is the direction I have decided to go.

 

For the "umteenth" time don't forget the 5 bolts inside the external cover. I've personally done about a dozen drill, tab and insert a set screw into the timing case cover to keep the dowel pin from falling out. That was until I saw what kind of damage that one of these bolts that hold the timing case to the engine can do - cam broken into three pieces, bent push rods and broken lifters and this engine survived and was repaired. If you are going to do the tab or whatever fix you desire you've still got 5 other potential "KDP" issues to address. The above damage was caused by one of those 5 bolts coming out.

When I used the drill and tap method I was not aware of the above potential problem - until I saw the three piece cam shaft. Shortly thereafter I did the bolt fix.

Bob

 

i tabbed mine when i changed the cam . mine hadn't moved yet so i was good at the moment .

 

I pulled all those bolts inside there and cleaned and loctited them when I did my KDP.

 

Holy cow, 60-70$ for those kits ? Is there a healthy markup, or are the gaskets that expensive ?

 

Expect to pay that much for the seal and gasket from Cummins if they stick you for "list" price.

 

The Cummins part number for the tab is 3958017 and lists for $1.21.

Cummins quoted the entire KDP fix at $541, which includes about $120 in parts (seals and cleaners) plus 4.5 hours of labor. I let them know in no uncertain terms that I think they should effect this repair for free because the problem is clearly the result of a manufacturing oversight. They were not overly sympathetic and told me the problem disappeared in engines built after June 1998, and an engine as old as mine has already lasted too long to be subject to any free fix of a manufacturing defect.

 

I'd say that even at $541, that's still a lot cheaper than replacing an engine...

 

So Cummins will actually do the work? Interesting. Anyhoo, I don't think the bolt-in tab is the best way to do this. That timing case looks like alum alloy, relatively soft. I think a few good whacks with a center punch around the hole to peen it in is the best permanent way to fix it. The tab is just a another piece of metal ready come loose in there someday.

 

I have done a lot of KDPs and like its been said do the bolts I just did another kdp today and the bolt next to it was ready to fall out

 

Thats how I did mine. The case dents real easy.

 

i did not know that first gen engines had kdp. Looks like I get to figure out how to get my front end off to get to it, and get it taken care of. If I can get it out should I just remove it? if its happens to be out enough to grab it.

Chris

 

Not with a good health dosing of red loctite!!!

I pulled every bolt that I could get to and brake cleaned the hole and blew dry then blue loctited every one... Half of the bolts were not tight!!

 

The Service Writer at Cummins read me a description of the repair. A re-torque of the five bolts behind the timing gear cover is included in the scope of what Cummins provides for the $541.

 

Well, I have the front end down fixing the steering box bracket/frame, might as well check for KDP-age as well. I got as far as trying to get the $#*#$^ fan off.