Just trying to get another one on the road.
#46
Registered User
Thread Starter
#47
Registered User
Word of advice on your flat deck mounting....not sure that is the best design for strength, rigidity and longevity.
I ran an old Ford F450 super duty flat deck many years ago as a pick-up/delivery driver for a big construction company...put almost 500K km's on it in 4 years and hauled a ton of big heavy loads, some legal...most not so much weight wise. The guy who built the truck and then also worked on it as needed was an old timer and been around the construction/HD equipment industry for ever. Anyway he mounted the deck this way....got the widest treated lumber for the frame rails, then cut the bottom of the lumber to conform to the frame rails and leave the top portion flat and level, then mount the deck onto that lumber. Then used either large U-bolts, or 1/2" thick x 3" wide flat bar plates on top and bottom with 3/4" redi-rod run between the two plates, top of the deck rails and the bottom of the frame rail, to clamp it down secure.
This way the load on the deck is dispersed over the length of the frame rails, and the lumber allows a small amount of flex and movement to ensure that the frame and deck do not snap/crackle or pop under load.
Truck is coming along and looking good!
I ran an old Ford F450 super duty flat deck many years ago as a pick-up/delivery driver for a big construction company...put almost 500K km's on it in 4 years and hauled a ton of big heavy loads, some legal...most not so much weight wise. The guy who built the truck and then also worked on it as needed was an old timer and been around the construction/HD equipment industry for ever. Anyway he mounted the deck this way....got the widest treated lumber for the frame rails, then cut the bottom of the lumber to conform to the frame rails and leave the top portion flat and level, then mount the deck onto that lumber. Then used either large U-bolts, or 1/2" thick x 3" wide flat bar plates on top and bottom with 3/4" redi-rod run between the two plates, top of the deck rails and the bottom of the frame rail, to clamp it down secure.
This way the load on the deck is dispersed over the length of the frame rails, and the lumber allows a small amount of flex and movement to ensure that the frame and deck do not snap/crackle or pop under load.
Truck is coming along and looking good!
The following 2 users liked this post by thrashingcows:
nonrev (01-14-2021),
Rug_Trucker (01-13-2021)
#48
Registered User
I like the color. My M880 was obviously camouflaged and after I had some paint left over from refinishing our old house's wood floors I just rolled it on the M880. After fading it is similar in color to yours now.
Also like the idea of a receiver hitch in the front, I have plans to do that to mine - handy - but that's been the "plan" now for years... I'd do a bigger heavier hoop. Not sure if you have deer wherever you are but we need deflectors to protect the grill around here.
As for Thrashing's observation, all the flat beds I've ever looked at had that wood sandwiched in between but I've not looked recently what they do now days. I guess the way you have it is more like the factory OEM bed was anchored/supported huh?
Also like the idea of a receiver hitch in the front, I have plans to do that to mine - handy - but that's been the "plan" now for years... I'd do a bigger heavier hoop. Not sure if you have deer wherever you are but we need deflectors to protect the grill around here.
As for Thrashing's observation, all the flat beds I've ever looked at had that wood sandwiched in between but I've not looked recently what they do now days. I guess the way you have it is more like the factory OEM bed was anchored/supported huh?
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edwinsmith (01-14-2021)
#51
Registered User
Thread Starter
Got the ends capped and all welded out
Mounted. The d rings didn’t get here in time to put on
Mounted d rings this morning
as for the bed mounts. I put it back in the factory mounts up close to the cab. I had to drill four new holes at the back. When I know I won’t be pulling the bed of again I’m gonna weld it to the frame. Of course I’ll choose spots I can get to so I can cut it back apart if I have too
#52
Registered User
Thread Starter
so I got to put a load on it the other day. 2 ricks of wood. Truck did well..... but. It seems to take forever for the boost to come up on it. I noticed it when it was unloaded but with a load I can really tell it. The truck was an auto and I think it is turbo exhaust housing related. Any of y’all’s thaiughta would be greatly appreciated.
#54
Registered User
Since I think it was a '92/'93 truck that used to have an auto. It likely has the 21 CM exhaust housing, affectionally know as the "lag master" turbo.
You should swap it out for a smaller housing, or a turbo off a manual or earlier year intercooled 1st gen truck.
To be honest a 2nd gen turbo with a 12CM waste gated housing would be what I would install on it, if it where my truck.
You should swap it out for a smaller housing, or a turbo off a manual or earlier year intercooled 1st gen truck.
To be honest a 2nd gen turbo with a 12CM waste gated housing would be what I would install on it, if it where my truck.
#55
Registered User
Thread Starter
Since I think it was a '92/'93 truck that used to have an auto. It likely has the 21 CM exhaust housing, affectionally know as the "lag master" turbo.
You should swap it out for a smaller housing, or a turbo off a manual or earlier year intercooled 1st gen truck.
To be honest a 2nd gen turbo with a 12CM waste gated housing would be what I would install on it, if it where my truck.
You should swap it out for a smaller housing, or a turbo off a manual or earlier year intercooled 1st gen truck.
To be honest a 2nd gen turbo with a 12CM waste gated housing would be what I would install on it, if it where my truck.
#56
Registered User
The HX-35 would be a great choice.
That was JUST what I was talking about as it would be a waste gated 12CM exhaust housing on a 2nd gen turbo from the factory.
That was JUST what I was talking about as it would be a waste gated 12CM exhaust housing on a 2nd gen turbo from the factory.
#57
Registered User
Thread Starter
Oliver I got your message. I’ll give u a call in a couple of days.
update on the truck
Put about 12000 pounds on it about 2 days ago. Truck did good considering the lag master turbo. But I had to do an emergency stop. From about 60. The trailer is a rental with a surge brake that I didn’t know didn’t work. From 5th to 3rd dip clutch with both from tires smoking flat spots.
So I just redone the hole thing. I should have done it from the start but wasn’t sure how the truck was going to run.
The result is this. Locked up front caliber and burnt up new pads.
Yes it needed new tires on the front. Just wanted to show the flat spot. Scared the he!! Out of my buddy that I was hauling it for.
it don’t look like but that little machine weighs in at 10000 pounds and I figure the trailer is about 2000.
update on the truck
Put about 12000 pounds on it about 2 days ago. Truck did good considering the lag master turbo. But I had to do an emergency stop. From about 60. The trailer is a rental with a surge brake that I didn’t know didn’t work. From 5th to 3rd dip clutch with both from tires smoking flat spots.
So I just redone the hole thing. I should have done it from the start but wasn’t sure how the truck was going to run.
The result is this. Locked up front caliber and burnt up new pads.
Yes it needed new tires on the front. Just wanted to show the flat spot. Scared the he!! Out of my buddy that I was hauling it for.
it don’t look like but that little machine weighs in at 10000 pounds and I figure the trailer is about 2000.
The following users liked this post:
edwinsmith (02-10-2021)
#59
Registered User
Looks like it might be time for a front end alignment on the old girl there Dan.
Rear brakes would also be on the short list of stuff to fix as well, which looks like you just took care of.
Rear brakes would also be on the short list of stuff to fix as well, which looks like you just took care of.