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ip leak from ksb

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Old 01-04-2014, 01:34 PM
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Make sure you take measurements of how far it sits away from the pump body so you can re-assemble it exactly the same.
does the govenor not sit tight against everything else? a little confused of what you mean by measuring the spacing? is it just floting on the shaft?

And the spacer (#60/61)...make sure you put a big dollop of grease on that bad boy before you install it into the shaft. This is how I destroyed my first pump. That washer was out of the bore, all crooked, and when the pump rotated it shattered and cracked my distributor plunger... Had to buy another pump.
any other parts that risk explosion or should be greased so they stay in place?

any torque settings i need to know or just snug everything up? im refering to the screws that hold the pump down and then the top housing screws and all external fittings?

once again, much appreciation!
Old 01-04-2014, 03:53 PM
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The Governor shaft is locked into place by a nut on the outside of the pump. Measure how far the actual governor shaft protrudes past the end of the nut. So that you can get that same measurement when you re-install the main governor shaft. Pic #84 and 85 shows it.

Also anther thing I just thought of. Make sure you scribe a line on the manual shut down lever. And then not it's orientation to the shaft it rides on. Also take a pic of the inside of the top of the IP where the manual shut down lever is located.

Like this...

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And just make sure that the big springs between the injector head, and the plunger are seated properly. And no I don't use any torque specs. Just tighten nice and snug.

I think the allen head bolts are 6.5mm...not a very common size.
Old 01-04-2014, 07:01 PM
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good to know good to know. keep it coming with all the tips anything is super helpfull. do you have somewhere where youve posted your pics of your rebuild?

are there any other potential things that can cause physical damage in the pump or to the truck?
worst case is youll need a new pump right? nothing can actually harm the truck?

anyone else out there have any recommendations as far as torque settings?
Old 01-04-2014, 09:54 PM
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No I've never written up a rebuild thread...since there are a number already around. They are usually good enough to muddle your way through.

And I'm sure you've noted it in one of the rebuild threads...but make sure you mark your throttle shaft, and take it pic of how it lines up with the marks on the top of the case. SO you can get it back in the right orientation.

The tips that I've mention are just things that I've had go wrong for me, and the solutions I've found to help get around it.

The pump can't hurt your motor. You can hurt your pump though, but only one or two things that can actually do that. The thrust washer that killed my IP, and maybe one of the big springs breaking...and the shrapnel ending up in the bowl of the pump...causing carnage. But this is extremely rare...and unlikely.

Pretty much reassemble the way you took it apart...and there is not much that can go wrong.
Old 01-05-2014, 07:32 PM
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So I've got it in half now. Took apart the gov spring nd did the shut down lever already.

Are there any seals to replace in the top diaphragm part? Didn't see any.

Also wondering about paint? Did u paint yers and what did u use? I was thinkin doin it after its all assembled.

Also u oil the orings and all the parts on reassembly.right?

Thanx again.
Goin good so far
Old 01-05-2014, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by grim
So I've got it in half now. Took apart the gov spring nd did the shut down lever already.

Are there any seals to replace in the top diaphragm part? Didn't see any.

Also wondering about paint? Did u paint yers and what did u use? I was thinkin doin it after its all assembled.

Also u oil the orings and all the parts on reassembly.right?

Thanx again.
Goin good so far
Glad to hear that things are going good. Make sure you replace that tiny little O ring for the small fuel pin in the top. It's a bit of a pain to get to, but should be done. Think Jim Lane has a good write up on that one.

And yes I pretty much oil everything. Can't hurt anything by doing it IMO.

No I never painted any of the ones I've done.
Old 01-06-2014, 04:14 PM
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apparently the reseal kit i got is missing the o ring from the control lever by the fuel pin; i talked to the shop and they said they would send me one. anyone heard of the kit missing o rings before?

Actually now that I look at it I think its missing the driveshaft seal as well.
does the kit generally supply replacements for all the o rings on the pump? or are there ones that generally arent replaced.
Old 01-06-2014, 10:14 PM
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Every kit I've used....all DGK121's have had all the o-rings I needed.....and usually a couple I didn't. As well as a few other odds and ends we don't use.

Some are close in size.....but not exact. Some o-rings I have just made a judgment call on.
Old 01-06-2014, 10:32 PM
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A few questions as we go:
It appears as though the screw above the diaphragm is rubbing on the metal plate of the diaphram. Does that mean the screw is out to far?

Also are there any metal washer seals on the top housing of the pump that get replaced?

The gear with the clip under the diaphragm. What does adjusting that do?

And finally the washer for the throttle.shaft had.to be stretched.quite.a bit.to get it in place. Once its there it was loose on the shaft is that normal
or should it be snug. I assumed the bushing will compress it once its assembled.

I there a difference between the black and.green orings? Are the interchangeable?

I think that's all for now.
Old 01-07-2014, 11:47 PM
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The screw above the diaphragm is a stop. What it controls I'm not sure of.

Metal washer...if you didn't find any as you pulled it apart...then I'd say no.

The gear with the clip....I never touched it. Again not sure of what it controls...smoke or something?

And finally the washer for the throttle.shaft had.to be stretched.quite.a bit.to get it in place. Once its there it was loose on the shaft is that normal
or should it be snug. I assumed the bushing will compress it once its assembled.
Not sure what your referring too?

And O-ring color...if it's in the kit...and it fits where you need it, put it in. Sure there is some difference between the two colors...but I never cared to figure out what.
Old 01-08-2014, 06:03 AM
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Screw above diaphragm sets depth of pin before boost affects operation. The deeper the screw, the more fuel at/just above idle. Gear w/clip(star wheel) sets tension of spring that regulates pin travel rate. The further down the wheel, the faster the pin drops in relation to boost. Both settings are more for smoke control than power.
Old 01-08-2014, 11:38 AM
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And finally the washer for the throttle.shaft had.to be stretched.quite.a bit.to get it in place. Once its there it was loose on the shaft is that normal or should it be snug. I assumed the bushing will compress it once its assembled.
Sorry I meant "o-ring" my bad. This also could be the wrong.oring

So turns out this kit I got is missing a couple orings that the shop forgot to mention.
I was also told that the Bosch dgk-121 kit does not come with the driveshaft seal. Is that true? Kits ive found on eBay (although not Bosch) appear to come with driveshaft seal and mounting gasket and way more then I got in my kit.

Any opinions on non Bosch kits? Or where I can get a complete.Bosch dgk-121?

Also gotta get a throttle shaft bushing. Mine is worn on one side.
Any other parts that are commonly replaced in reseal jobs?

Endless appreciation for all the help!
Old 01-08-2014, 11:58 AM
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Every DGK121 kit that I've got has had the main input seal, and all the O-rings necessary to do the re-seal job. Not sure why your kit is lacking all these other pieces. Were all the seals, washers and hardware in a sealed bag when you got the kit?

Think only one kit I've gotten has had the mounting gasket though. I just use gasket material and cut my own...using the old one as a template.

I know a few of the o-rings have to be stretched to fit over the shaft. But they should shrink back down once left to sit for a while.

I guess I've been lucky and not had to change out the throttle shaft bushings. Other then the seals, washers and few other odd pieces...those are all I've ever replaced.
Old 01-10-2014, 11:51 AM
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Other than the main shaft seal and the oring on the distributor head and ksb covers. Is there any other seals or orings that you replace in the main body of the pump for a standard reseal job? Wonderin if its worth taking all that apart too.
Old 01-12-2014, 08:49 PM
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So I got the pump back together.
I didn't end up stripping it fully apart because my kit still doesn't seem right. The shop told me.dgk121 is unavailable and gave me a Bosch alternative.

I changed all the orings on the shutdown solenoid, fuel pin, gov. Screw , fuel screw, and fuel regulator and both ksb side covers. A few of the orings I couldn't match up with new.ones in the kit and the closest ones would not fit right. So unfortunately I ended up using one old.oring. it appear.to be in good condition still.

Had some trouble figuring out the small fuel pin oring. My oring came.out without the little.protective cap. Is it possible that I got the oring out with the cap still in?

The other trouble.I had was with the throttle shaft bushing. Mine was slightly.worn so I figure I should replace it but I wasnt able.to get it out. I used a press and put a lotta pressure.on it but it didn't budge so I didn't wanna go any further and risk breaking the case. So I also left that in for now.

Also that dang key is a pain while re installing the pump. Should the key be sticking out or visible from the front side of the drive gear?

Pump is installed now gonna try it tomorrow.


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