grim

So I've got a dripping leak from my injection pump. I'm about 98% sure its coming from the ksb seal. I pulled the vacuum and steering pump so I could get at it better and managed to change the seal on the ksb port. Put it all back together and its still dripping.

Any ideas? Im pretty positive I got.the seal seated right and got the torx screws tight.(which was tricky considering how soft they felt) A friend told me that those torx screws need to be replaced each time. Is that true? I'm kinda stumped and ain't looking forward to pullin the pump.

dodgenstein

Probably the o-ring on the cover plate on the back side of the KSB bore. Pump removal is necessary.

thrashingcows

Yup that's the more common one. Clean and dry everything really well...then use a flash light and mirror and run the truck. As suggested, bet it's the rear plate that's leaking.

grim

so the rear plate is leaking but not as much as the ksb side. so looks like im pulling the pump.

the shop quoted me between 500 and 800 for a reseal job or $1275 for a remanufactured pump. He also said he could take it apart and estimate the cost, then give me a reman pump for that price. do those prices sound resonable?

also wondering how i line up a different pump with the block? wouldnt the reference mark be different? how would that work.

thrashingcows

Wow...$500-$800 for a reseal job!

I take it you drop off the truck...they pull the pump, re-seal, and re-install and get running again?

I highly doubt you need a new pump. Just a $25 re-seal kit is all. If you feel like coming over to Abbotsford, I'd be willing to help you do a re-seal job. If I put my mind to it I could probably do a re-seal job in about 8 hours.

Biggest thing is getting a DGK-121 re-seal kit. They've gotten hard to find as of late. Bosch for some reason is not keeping up on manufacturing these kits. I managed to pry one loose from BD diesel here locally for the reseal on my 93 IP. They only had 3 left...and was willing to part with one.

grim

nope thats with me dropping the pump off. rip off you think?
no i know i dont need a new pump. mine is running great. i just got 2 leaking seals, but my mileage is getting up there so i figure if im doing them i may as well do em all.

im tempted by your offer. how hard would you say it is to reseal it on a scale of 1 to imposible?

ive read a couple write ups but fairly intimidating with all those tiny parts

thrashingcows

I know when I did my first pump I was REALLY intimidated by it. But once I sucked it up and got in there, it was not as bad as I had anticipated. I've done a few now...so now I will dive in without any hesitation.

Biggest thing is keeping everything clean and organized. I measure every screw before removal, write down and take pics. Then take dozens of pics as I slowly take it apart. That way when putting things back together I can double check to make sure I got everything right.

On a scale of 1 to Impossible...I'd give it a good 4 or 5-ish. Guess it's kind of relevant on your skill set too.

The last one I did...on my donor 93...I pulled the IP in the evening after work. Then tore it down in the garage after dark. Next morning started the re-seal. I had the truck back running by 2-3pm the next day.

The price of $5-800 for you dropping off a pump for a re-seal...seems steep to me. I'd say just re-sealing the pump should take 4 hours tops.

thrashingcows

Heck if you sent me your pump, or came over with it, we could re-seal it in a few hours.

grim

in a few of the write ups it shows taking the pump completely apart but do you really have to do all that just for a reseal? i know the main two that need replacing are the ksb and opposite side cover plate. the head seal looks fairly simple. I found a post by "dguru" saying
"all you need to do is remove the top cover and replace the orings. remove the head and replace that oring, remove the timing advance cover and replace orings, then replace front seal."

excuse me if ive mis quoted but that seams a lot simpler then the complete teardowns.

thrashingcows

I look at it like this....if I have it out, and I'm tearing "some" of it apart to replace "some" of the seals....it's not much more work to tear it "All" the way down and replace "All" the seals.

I just don't like doing things twice....so I will take the extra time, and effort, to do it once.

And yes to replace all the seals you really need to tear it all the way down.

grim

wht about after the rebuild. what is required as far as calibration or testing and anything else like that?
ive read a bunch about using stp on all the parts when intalling them. is that the best or what would u recomend? also what is the best method of cleaning everything befor and during?

thanx again for all the great info.

thrashingcows

No special calibration is needed. Line up the shaft with the timing gear and re-install...make sure t put a few good gobs of bearing grease on the woodruff key. They can sometimes slip out when re-installing, and the grease might just help keep it from falling down into your timing case.

Also once the IP is installed, use a small piece of wire to make sure the woodruff key is in place.

I used STP on one of my rebuilds. The others I have just used engine oil. It all get s washed off when the diesel starts a flowing anyway.

Cleaning...I usually sit and use a couple small screw drivers to pick as much dirt and debris off the pump...while still assembled. Then I will plug up any port that might let in water. Then use Simple Green to scrub it down again. Once apart I will clean the individual parts in my small parts washer. Then wiper and dry the parts with clean paper towels. I then have a small container with clean diesel in it to give it one last rinse before re-installing the parts.

I probably burn through 2 rolls of paper towels trying to keep parts, and my hands, as clean as possible.

grim

awsome info thanx a lot.

i think im gonna do. brought the pump to the shop yesterday but ended up just getting the reseal kit.
dgk121 i think should be the right one?


another couple questions if you dont mind.

Is the writeup in the sticky done in the correct order? i notice he does the KSB befor taking the case apart.

How much else is there to do that isnt included in the sticky? mostly reassembly? I think i can figure most of it out if i just take it apart slowly.
ive also been reading this site which is a 4 cylinder but seems fairly similar
http://gnarlodious.com/vanagon/bosch_pump/-Rebuild

Is there any parts that are prone to shooting peices everywhere that i should be carefull with?

any other tips as far as alignment or other important things to know? the guy at the shop told me about lining up the pin on the cam-plate with the notch in the one shaft (not sure exact terms)

And also, is there anything i can mess up while reassembling that could damage my truck upon testing it?

again i really appreciate the tips

thrashingcows

That 4 Cylinder assembly is pretty good. And yes your DGK121 is the correct reseal kit.

As for things to watch out for. When removing/installing the stator ring (pic #7 in your link) you need to be very careful to keep it level or it will jam up and bind in the bore. Then it's very difficult to free it up without damaging the aluminum case.

And I have not disassembled the delivery valves on any of my re-seal jobs. Nor have I disassembled the governor and it's weights. I remove it as an assembly and set it aside. Then replace the seals on the shaft. Make sure you take measurements of how far it sits away from the pump body so you can re-assemble it exactly the same.

And the spacer (#60/61)...make sure you put a big dollop of grease on that bad boy before you install it into the shaft. This is how I destroyed my first pump. That washer was out of the bore, all crooked, and when the pump rotated it shattered and cracked my distributor plunger... Had to buy another pump.

And I assemble the governor and the governor tension lever (#64) into the case before I install the injector head. and make sure when you re-assemble it into the case that you get the ball on the bottom to sit in the socket on the control collar. I, and others, have had this come loose and then when you try to start the truck you will have little to no fuel injection pulse getting to the injectors.

And make sure you use lots of grease to hold the springs in the head. Then lower the head down onto the pump. And watch the big O-ring around the head. It can sometimes fish mouth and get cut as you slowly tighten the bolts down. I usually lube it up really well, and then use a blunt end pick to push it in as I tighten.

I noticed that they don't install the main shaft seal until almost the very end. I install it once the case is apart and clean...really the first thing I do.

As for the KSB. you can remove it before pulling the pump apart if you like. The piston will stay in place. Make sure you note the location, and number of shims that come out with the spring when you do pull it apart.

And make sure you take measurements of how far the throttle screw sits away from the body, and the fuel screw as well. And make sure you mark the diaphragm on the top of the pump with a felt pen so you can re-install it in the same location. Take a pic.

Like I mentioned...take a hundred photos of everything you do and measure as it comes apart. then use those pics to make sure you have everything in the same spots and alignments as it goes back together.

Think that's about it...but if you have any issues just ask. Good luck!!

sooty

you can do the main seal with pump installed, I drilled a small hole in the shoulder and used a screw to extract it, the moving throttle shaft is the one ive seen fail the most, the fuel pin oring leaks the least, in all, ive done the whole kit on my newer motor, and hope to get a couple hundred k miles before ill be addressing that again