Installing Headlamp Relays
03-07-2013, 07:36 AM
#121
Administrator
Thread Starter
Which wire are you tapping or taping to ground?
Is it a trigger lead from the headlamp socket, or ground lead?
The relay is divided into 2 circuits,
The control circuit, (coil)
Term. #85 (-)
Term. #86 (+)
And the load circuit,
Term. #30 = Common to Battery (+ 12 volts)
Term. #87 = Normally Open Contact (switches on power when Term, #86 energizes)
With the harness reconnected to the truck,
Lights on, the relay coil clicks? be sure ground Term, 85 is connected.
Still no lights?
With grounded test light, is there power at Term. #86 only when the lights are on and Term. #30?
should be all of the time,
Check your added fuse or breaker.
Term. #30 has power? ok
Jumper terminals #30 & #87 together lights should turn on.
Your truck IS a Federal and not Canadian isn't it?
Let me know.
Jim
03-07-2013, 08:13 AM
#122
Registered User
I think I do not understand what you are doing, it worked for several months so Ill assume it is wired correctly but where is there a resistor in the circuit?
Which wire are you tapping or taping to ground?
Is it a trigger lead from the headlamp socket, or ground lead?
The relay is divided into 2 circuits,
The control circuit, (coil)
Term. #85 (-)
Term. #86 (+)
And the load circuit,
Term. #30 = Common to Battery (+ 12 volts)
Term. #87 = Normally Open Contact (switches on power when Term, #86 energizes)
With the harness reconnected to the truck,
Lights on, the relay coil clicks? be sure ground Term, 85 is connected.
Still no lights?
With grounded test light, is there power at Term. #86 only when the lights are on and Term. #30?
should be all of the time,
Check your added fuse or breaker.
Term. #30 has power? ok
Jumper terminals #30 & #87 together lights should turn on.
Your truck IS a Federal and not Canadian isn't it?
Let me know.
Jim
Which wire are you tapping or taping to ground?
Is it a trigger lead from the headlamp socket, or ground lead?
The relay is divided into 2 circuits,
The control circuit, (coil)
Term. #85 (-)
Term. #86 (+)
And the load circuit,
Term. #30 = Common to Battery (+ 12 volts)
Term. #87 = Normally Open Contact (switches on power when Term, #86 energizes)
With the harness reconnected to the truck,
Lights on, the relay coil clicks? be sure ground Term, 85 is connected.
Still no lights?
With grounded test light, is there power at Term. #86 only when the lights are on and Term. #30?
should be all of the time,
Check your added fuse or breaker.
Term. #30 has power? ok
Jumper terminals #30 & #87 together lights should turn on.
Your truck IS a Federal and not Canadian isn't it?
Let me know.
Jim
85 to 85 to splices into the ground off the headlights, from there that goes to the battery. I think it needs to go, 85, to 85 to ground. Then ground from the headlights to it's own ground.
The one I'm tapping to the ground is the ground from the headlight plugs. It sparks like crazy for some reason. You have hi, lo, G.. the g is what I grounded. On the circut breaker that is alone, if I touch the ground with that it buzzes relay. I think what I said above I might have been grounding to much and I grounded it out?
03-07-2013, 01:39 PM
#123
Administrator
Thread Starter
Truck is Canadian, I think I found the issue.. I think. I have the harness all apart and looking at it I did the following;
85 to 85 to splices into the ground off the headlights, from there that goes to the battery. I think it needs to go, 85, to 85 to ground. Then ground from the headlights to it's own ground.
The one I'm tapping to the ground is the ground from the headlight plugs. It sparks like crazy for some reason. You have hi, lo, G.. the g is what I grounded. On the circut breaker that is alone, if I touch the ground with that it buzzes relay. I think what I said above I might have been grounding to much and I grounded it out?
85 to 85 to splices into the ground off the headlights, from there that goes to the battery. I think it needs to go, 85, to 85 to ground. Then ground from the headlights to it's own ground.
The one I'm tapping to the ground is the ground from the headlight plugs. It sparks like crazy for some reason. You have hi, lo, G.. the g is what I grounded. On the circut breaker that is alone, if I touch the ground with that it buzzes relay. I think what I said above I might have been grounding to much and I grounded it out?
The DRL control module output is corrupting the DC signal with a PWM pulsed signal causing it to chatter.
The relays need to be connected differently to isolate the DRL output from the full power of the battery.
Did you read this possible fix?
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...s-t310460.html
Jim
03-08-2013, 06:05 AM
#124
Registered User
If your truck is Canadian your problem is you have DRL's and you cannot use a conventional relay setup.
The DRL control module output is corrupting the DC signal with a PWM pulsed signal causing it to chatter.
The relays need to be connected differently to isolate the DRL output from the full power of the battery.
Did you read this possible fix?
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...s-t310460.html
Jim
The DRL control module output is corrupting the DC signal with a PWM pulsed signal causing it to chatter.
The relays need to be connected differently to isolate the DRL output from the full power of the battery.
Did you read this possible fix?
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...s-t310460.html
Jim
03-08-2013, 07:26 AM
#125
Administrator
Thread Starter
Do you have to have an annual safety inspection in Canada?
BTW I think the sparking issue with the headlamp socket might be the way you are looking at them, the headlamp sockets are viewed from one side while the connection for the relay coils are viewed from the opposite side, this could short the high beam (+) to ground.
Jim
03-08-2013, 07:43 AM
#126
Registered User
If it is registered in Canada you are supposed to have DRL's, I believe the module is mounted somewhere behind the battery and it connects at the passenger headlamp.
Do you have to have an annual safety inspection in Canada?
BTW I think the sparking issue with the headlamp socket might be the way you are looking at them, the headlamp sockets are viewed from one side while the connection for the relay coils are viewed from the opposite side, this could short the high beam (+) to ground.
Jim
Do you have to have an annual safety inspection in Canada?
BTW I think the sparking issue with the headlamp socket might be the way you are looking at them, the headlamp sockets are viewed from one side while the connection for the relay coils are viewed from the opposite side, this could short the high beam (+) to ground.
Jim
Yeah, I think I found the issue, hopefully.
03-08-2013, 06:34 PM
#127
Registered User
If you have DRL's the module is on the pass side on the inner wheelwell . about 3x4 x1 in size with too many wires going to it. IF you unplug it all you lose is your high beam indicator and of course your DRL's. no safety inspection unless you po a cop or dot guy then they can send you for inspection
03-10-2013, 04:50 PM
#128
Registered User
Nothing on the passenger side at all. This is very frustrating.. after spending five hours trying to install this simple thing I came to an end. I have the two relays zip tied together. If I connect all the #85 together and don't ground them, I get high beams but I don't get low beams. If I ground everything, lights go out. Oddly enough I'm not getting low beams just high beams. I'm going to go back through this and hopefully I can figure this out. I really don't understand what is going on or why this worked for several months. I have new relays and a new 30amp resistor but I'm getting the same thing. Unless these are blowing up on me that easy.
03-11-2013, 04:14 AM
#130
Administrator
Thread Starter
Sorry I just assumed you were working on a Canadian truck.
Can you show me exactly which schematic or diagram you are building your circuit from?
Without DRL's it is real simple.
I still do not see where you need a resistor for or where it is in the circuit,
Quote:
So I checked my resistor with my electrical tester for ohms on both prongs
I have new relays and a new 30amp resistor but I'm getting the same thing. Unless these are blowing up on me that easy.
Could you maybe thinking about the relay or maybe the circuit breaker?
Show me a drawing how it is built and I should be able to figure it out.
Jim
Can you show me exactly which schematic or diagram you are building your circuit from?
Without DRL's it is real simple.
I still do not see where you need a resistor for or where it is in the circuit,
Quote:
So I checked my resistor with my electrical tester for ohms on both prongs
I have new relays and a new 30amp resistor but I'm getting the same thing. Unless these are blowing up on me that easy.
Could you maybe thinking about the relay or maybe the circuit breaker?
Show me a drawing how it is built and I should be able to figure it out.
Jim
03-11-2013, 05:43 AM
#131
Registered User
Sorry I just assumed you were working on a Canadian truck.
Can you show me exactly which schematic or diagram you are building your circuit from?
Without DRL's it is real simple.
I still do not see where you need a resistor for or where it is in the circuit,
Quote:
So I checked my resistor with my electrical tester for ohms on both prongs
I have new relays and a new 30amp resistor but I'm getting the same thing. Unless these are blowing up on me that easy.
Could you maybe thinking about the relay or maybe the circuit breaker?
Show me a drawing how it is built and I should be able to figure it out.
Jim
Can you show me exactly which schematic or diagram you are building your circuit from?
Without DRL's it is real simple.
I still do not see where you need a resistor for or where it is in the circuit,
Quote:
So I checked my resistor with my electrical tester for ohms on both prongs
I have new relays and a new 30amp resistor but I'm getting the same thing. Unless these are blowing up on me that easy.
Could you maybe thinking about the relay or maybe the circuit breaker?
Show me a drawing how it is built and I should be able to figure it out.
Jim
) is what I think is messed up. The drawing I used was this one;
I took my electrical tester and tested everything for continuity and with everything plug into the right relays. I'm not sure how you would test the circuit breaker, in theory I thought it was always on until there was a power surge?
Ordered a few of these, http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-CB...=pd_sbs_auto_1
Maybe I had mine backwards. The copper went to the relays and the silver went to the 12V. It was labeled that way.. unless someone messed the print up.
03-11-2013, 08:50 AM
#132
Registered User
Yep, the circuit breaker(thought it was a resistor ) is what I think is messed up. The drawing I used was this one;
I took my electrical tester and tested everything for continuity and with everything plug into the right relays. I'm not sure how you would test the circuit breaker, in theory I thought it was always on until there was a power surge?
Ordered a few of these, http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-CB...=pd_sbs_auto_1
Maybe I had mine backwards. The copper went to the relays and the silver went to the 12V. It was labeled that way.. unless someone messed the print up.
) is what I think is messed up. The drawing I used was this one;I took my electrical tester and tested everything for continuity and with everything plug into the right relays. I'm not sure how you would test the circuit breaker, in theory I thought it was always on until there was a power surge?
Ordered a few of these, http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-CB...=pd_sbs_auto_1
Maybe I had mine backwards. The copper went to the relays and the silver went to the 12V. It was labeled that way.. unless someone messed the print up.
Unless there's some electronics involved, (doubtful) polarity makes no difference. Normally the load stud is the longer one in practice.
03-11-2013, 09:49 AM
#133
Registered User
A circuit breaker is a switch. It only opens up if excess current flows through it. Then, depending on the breaker it auto resets when it cools down, or has to be manually reset.
Unless there's some electronics involved, (doubtful) polarity makes no difference. Normally the load stud is the longer one in practice.
Unless there's some electronics involved, (doubtful) polarity makes no difference. Normally the load stud is the longer one in practice.
03-11-2013, 03:30 PM
#135
Registered User
The "high and low" relay is redundant. All you need to do is tap the headlamp power to the dimmer switch and power the low beam relay with that. Low beam is always on anyway.
Personally, I wouldn't run both filaments together. The excess heat would have to shorten bulb life considerably.