Injector pump leaking real bad at the hydraulic/ pump head
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Injector pump leaking real bad at the hydraulic/ pump head
Is there any way to replace the oring without removing the inj pump? BTW can you just use a wrench to remove the lines or do you need a special tool?
#3
Adminstrator-ess
Some of the VW folks have had success in changing the o ring on the engine. The procedure is to remove the injection lines, then loosen the bolts holding the head to the pump just enough to allow you to pick out the o ring. You remove and replace the o ring by stretching it over the pump head. The tricky part is getting the head far enough off to pull the o ring, but not to much. Go too far and the insides come apart and you get to pull the pump.
Sent from my Paranoid Android HD2 using Tapatalk 2.
Sent from my Paranoid Android HD2 using Tapatalk 2.
#4
how do you pull the oring off with out pulling the oring past the rotor??? Can you pull it over the square part of the head?? which if thats how they are doing it then wouldn't the oring be streached to much to seat in the groove right????
#6
Registered User
I just did my injection pump a few days ago, I wouldn't even try it without removing the pump. All you need is a 13mm, 10mm and 13mm curved wrench to get the pump off. The lines are 17mm, all you need is a crows foot and a large wrench. As you go you'll find that you can get a pump off in less than a hour.
I was trying to be very careful and doing this trick. My springs were magnetized to the rotor and as I pulled it out the washers, springs and rod came out. I didn't even know it, I thought I had the pump done and when I picked it up off the bench I heard a rattle. Took the back off the pump and some of the rollers were out as well .
Anyways, it's not bad to do, the secret is to keep the little round key on the cam plate to match the key on the shaft key. Use lots of grease!! and check it with diesel, it should make the grease dissolve or lose consistency. I paid $19 for my kit and re-sealed my entire pump, some of the seals weren't leaking but they were hard and it was only a matter of time.
I was trying to be very careful and doing this trick. My springs were magnetized to the rotor and as I pulled it out the washers, springs and rod came out. I didn't even know it, I thought I had the pump done and when I picked it up off the bench I heard a rattle. Took the back off the pump and some of the rollers were out as well .
Anyways, it's not bad to do, the secret is to keep the little round key on the cam plate to match the key on the shaft key. Use lots of grease!! and check it with diesel, it should make the grease dissolve or lose consistency. I paid $19 for my kit and re-sealed my entire pump, some of the seals weren't leaking but they were hard and it was only a matter of time.
#7
man i was tempted to try it on the engine the last time i had the head leak but didn't know exactly how they done it, I might have to try it the next time all else fails i'll be pulling the pump lol...
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
I went to the local bosch service center and they quoted me 650-750 for a rebuild and calibration Im assuming rebuild just means they replace the orings?
#9
Registered User
#10
Registered User
How many miles are on the motor, I took another pump out of the D250 today and that has about 631K on the motor. The pump looks brand new inside.. had to fix the seal on the governor spring. The rollers were not bad at all either. $650 is crazy, I'd charge $150 to re-seal a pump it's easy.
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
its funny because you can buy a brand new one for 750 shipped. It only has about 250K on it. the only thing wrong , is its leaking diesel pretty bad where i dont want to drive it. You wont be in san diego anytime soon will you
#12
Registered User
If you want to take it off and ship it I can work it. This is the kit I put into the three pumps I just worked on. I painted one military green, looks odd but oh well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GASKET-KIT-R...d5a840&vxp=mtr
It's a nice kit, if you do take it off, make sure you lock the pump. Take the key out and wire it somewhere or your timing will mess up. Oh yeah, don't move the truck either
#13
pump doesn't need to be locked, when i done mine i pulled everything apart and checked the veins and what not and it was easier to knock the front seal out that way, when i put it back together it i just rotated the pump shaft untill i was close then i had enough "adjustment" play that i got the key lined up, the second time i rotated the motor till it slid in.then when you rotate the pump back and forth you can feel the resistance of the rollers\cam\spings.
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
I just got another quote via email:
"If we are doing r/r pump 1700.00. At the same time if injectors had not been done would be time. Due to pressure from pump overhaul and reveal. Around 1000.00 for injectors and labor."
I dont even know what to say Unbelievable
"If we are doing r/r pump 1700.00. At the same time if injectors had not been done would be time. Due to pressure from pump overhaul and reveal. Around 1000.00 for injectors and labor."
I dont even know what to say Unbelievable
#15
Registered User
Well some of this is right, some of it isn't. The pricing is crazy though, sometimes with a new sealed pump it will leak diesel from the injector base. Usually you can tighten them and it takes care of it. Other times you need to replace the o-ring(s) not really the case though. Actually I need to fix this on my truck as it's leaking around the injector base.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Czapla44
3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only)
10
05-07-2006 02:03 PM