KB440

Excellent post & breakdown pics, thanks very much.

bgilbert

BK, get yourself the VE seal kit Bosch part number DGK121 ~$16. Has all the seals, o-rings and gaskets you'd need. Cummins, Bosch dealer/distributor is where the kit can be had.

BearKiller

By "Banjo", do you mean the hollow thing with the fuel-line made on it that goes down to the KSB valve?? meaning I don't have to mess with removing the flare-nut end of the line at the KSB??

The wife picked up the necessary Bosch seals at the FuelInjection shop in a neighboring county.

I had her get enough to do three trucks, one set for the present situation, one set for the next emergency, and one set for when I screw up learning how to do this.

Oh, and by the way, I still have no idea what KSB means or does.

Thanks.

torquefan

KSB means something in German, but I have never heard what it is. Its purpose is to advance injection timing and boost fuel pressure when intake air temperature is below about 65 degrees. There is an electric switch on the intake plate which accomplishes this, although I have found these switches to fail often. The KSB solenoid on the inj. pump should have power with key on, engine temp below approx. 65 degrees. If no power, suspect the KSB air temp switch. Its Dodge part number is 4713521. Note this description is valid only for intercooled trucks. The earlier trucks had a system that worked backward to this.

Jim Lane

Quote:
By "Banjo", do you mean the hollow thing with the fuel-line made on it that goes down to the KSB valve?? meaning I don't have to mess with removing the flare-nut end of the line at the KSB??

Correct you are..
The banjo is the block that the small fuel line is connected to and the control valve passes through. And you do NOT need to remove the flare nut or any part thereof. You only need to unscrew the valve, replace the O-rings, LUBRICATE them and reinstall it. I use silicone to lubricate the O-rings before I install them. You can get some at any hardware store like Home Depot it is in the plumbing department. It is used to lubricate faucet stems. The name Banjo fitting is because it looks like a BANJO.. The line enters where the neck would be and the bolt would go where the bridge is. It has the ability to rotate 360* and maintain flow.

When you replace the O-rings, do not stretch them into place, you need to roll them to their intended location.
If you do not have an O-ring pick you can use a straightened out paper clip with a small hook at the end, sort of like a long "L".

KSB?? Kick Some B--- Naw.. not really.

Quote from:
DJ Seems like a lot of new leaks, think ulsd is causing the problems like last time they changed.

This did come into my mind also. Maybe a conspiracy to make all of the older trucks break down so we have to buy newer ones?

Hey you will do fine.
Jim

wannadiesel

Kaltstartbeschleiniger

BearKiller

Mission accomplished.

It was much harder to find the source of the leak than it was to fix.

This task is next to impossible to accomplish, without the proper tool, or without a 10MM crow's-foot wrench.

A 10MM crow's-foot is not to be found in this little mudlick hole that I reside in; so, I first heated and bent a crook in a cheap 10MM open-end, no go, fuel line interference; then, I sawed off the "open-end" and stack-welded two 5/16" hex-nuts immediately over the opening of the open-end, thereby making a custom tool for servicing the pressure regulator.

I used my homemade tool in conjunction with a six-point 1/2" socket, extension, and ratchet.

Once loose, a pair of extra-long nose pliers finished the job.

NOW HERE THIS: If you own a Bosch rotary pump, go now and purchase a 10MM crow's-foot wrench and zip-tie it to an injector-line, near the pump, so when yours starts leaking, you will be prepared.

Many thanks to all who helped.

Jim Lane

Glad to hear you got it fixed.. It would be too easy if Bosch had cut a regular hex head into the top of the valve.

Wonder is Snap-On has a special socket for it?

When I worked on Detroit’s I had I drawer full of special tools and Go-NoGo gauges like for setting valves.

BTW if you zip tie a socket to the injector line be sure it does not vibrate and wear a hole in the line..

Jim

torquefan

Are you making that up?? If so, you get a couple extra points for creativity.

Ace

Looks like a real German word to me, maybe spelling a little off, translated: cold-start-accelerator.

rlyons

It's real, I checked with the wife to see if he was pulling our leggs.

shade_tree

Hi...i'm a new diesel owner and huge fan, I'm sold...the diesel is superior.

I have a leak at the VE pump, much like the original poster here had...however, I can clearly see that the fuel is cumming out of the "Hex head affair" as it was described. That is, I have a leak which spews fuel from the brass looking bolt that exists just below that skinny, lil' tube between the pump and timing cover. I wrapped a piece of masking tape around that lil' tube, fired up the vehicle, then carefully removed the tape after the leak had clearly developed...upon examination, the tape was dry, so, the leak is not from the tube...turned out to be a good leak test tho using the tape.

So I called the guys at Oregon Fuel Injection who told me that my '93 W-250 was built for the grade of fuel that was being refined at that time, he went on to say that there has been a change in the fuel grade since then, and, the new fuel does not mix well with the old school "O" rings and other gaskets originally installed at the factory. So, it was recommended that I purchase a pump. Of course they are in the business of selling pumps, so I do question the fixability....thanx to Mr. Lane, I now have a very nice blow up illustration of the pump! The part i am referring to, according to the drawings (thanx again) is the "governor shaft"

My question is...
do you folks think I could successfully get at that brass bolt (accordind to the drawing, it is actually a nut with a o-ring seal and a washer), and that means there is enough clearance to remove it without removing the pump. Of course, I must first follow all the steps that Mr. Lane so carefully logged for us here in order to remove that blasted lil' tube.

Also, does anyone here agree that leaks on the 1st gen. trucks could be the result of that fuel grade change that Oregon Fuel Injection mentioned?

thank you for reading

bgilbert

No. It's called 15 year old rubber.

That throttle shaft leak is an easy fix. If you follow the steps to doing a governor spring install, you can get at the throttle shaft and replace the o-ring on it. Inspect the shaft for wear or grooves in it. Replace if needbe. ~$50 for a new one. Usually all you need is a new o-ring, sometimes the shaft is worn bad and needs replaced. Get the VE seal kit Bosch part number DGK-121 ~$16, it will have all the o-rings and seals you need. Get it from the fine folks at that fuel shop you mentioned. Or any Bosch certified shop.

shade_tree

thanks for the tip and the confidance Mr. Gilbert. My assuption is, that in order inspect the govornor shaft, I must remove the pump. The shaft seems some three or four inches in length, yet there is only an inch of clearance between the mounted pump and the timing cover...one of them needs to get out of the way. I'm thinking to simply see if the nut has clearance to remove it, pump in vehicle, then dig out that old o-ring and the carefully (painstakingly) attempt to seat a new one...without pulling the shaft out at all...what do ya think?

on the other hand, if I get the kit you mention, and remove the pump, then replace all the o-rings and such, it would be a preventative measure rather than having to get in there only to fix another leak soon...not only is the rubber 15 years old, but the truck shows over 275,000 miles. Old worn out rubber does not seem out of the realm possibility as the cause of my current, fuel dripping woes. Thanx again, I'm schedualing fix the thing time for wednesday onward...I'll keep ya posted and most definately be back for more info...this place is awesome

bgilbert

I'm sorry, I thought I read your throttle shaft is leaking. Governor screw leak can only be repair with pump off the engine. Throttle shaft leak, you only need to remove the pump top, leave the pump on the engine.