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Injection plumbing

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Old 03-12-2006, 11:35 AM
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Injection plumbing

Right off, I realize one has to be VERY careful when working with the injector plumbing as the un-educated can possibly wreak a set of perfectly good injectors, screw up performance and smoothness of operation, if not burn the truck to the ground.


I'm the un-educated.

So if one were to want to run a set of new lines (re-routed), how/where would one be edumacated. Seems I've read one can't just bend up some pipe as the interior surface might slough off some particulate matter that would plug the injectors. Solid mounting is critical less one might make smoke in the wrong place.

And of course, length and ID toy with performance.


What's the scoop? Help me separate fact from fiction.
Old 03-12-2006, 11:47 AM
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Line diameter and length have to be the same for each cylinder. This effets timing. If you care to look at my photo gallery, you can see how one owner took all of his lines off and forgot how they went back. So, he just bent as needed, cut and flared the lines and installed a union as needed. No inulating clamps anywhere, only a small wadded up piece of paper to keep one line from rubbing against the head. It came into the shop running, barely, only above 1000 rpm and missing like a loaded up gasser.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...cat=500&page=1

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...cat=500&page=2

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...cat=500&page=2
Old 03-12-2006, 11:59 AM
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Thanks Monty.

It's my understanding that the line operating pressures are in the 8000psig range and with that, pressure pulsations will work loose any flakes of interior skin (if you will) that may become loose in the bending process.

Solid mounting with effective means of vibration control are important so as to stop anything from worrying a hole in the lines.

What options does one have typically in making custom lines?

Regarding length, etc. How critical is it? Do they need to be dead-on, or is one allowed say, 1/2" variance?


I simply want to move the rear three lines more toward the back of the engine and still have it appear factory.
Old 03-12-2006, 12:12 PM
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If you moved the three rear lines towards the back (lengthen), you'd have to lengthend the front lines as well. Got room for that too? My question, is why'd you want to do this? A good diesel shop such as Scheid's could custom make you a set of lines for around $350. I seen a 1st gen owner thinking 2nd gen wise and had them build a set of 3.0mm lines. Us 1st genners have no problem making big power with either the 1.8mm or 2.0mm ID lines that come from nonIC'd and IC'd 1st gen engines.
Old 03-12-2006, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Monty
Line diameter and length have to be the same for each cylinder. This effets timing. If you care to look at my photo gallery, you can see how one owner took all of his lines off and forgot how they went back. So, he just bent as needed, cut and flared the lines and installed a union as needed. No inulating clamps anywhere, only a small wadded up piece of paper to keep one line from rubbing against the head. It came into the shop running, barely, only above 1000 rpm and missing like a loaded up gasser.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...cat=500&page=1

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...cat=500&page=2

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...cat=500&page=2
Oh My, What would posess somebody to do that???
Old 03-12-2006, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bgilbert
My question, is why'd you want to do this?
Frankly, I'm re-hashing past power products that are, by themselves of little value. But in combination with others, the cumulative effect might be.

If you know me by now, I ain't skeerd of takin a hammer and tin snips to something.

Clear as mud?


. . . ..
Old 03-12-2006, 12:21 PM
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I dont know. Its been several years ago when I worked on this truck. But if I remember right, a wrecker company bought this FL70 site unseen Anyways, the total repair consisted of all new lines, insulators, new engine harness that they hacked on, and a new VP44 that had the keyway rounded off.
Old 03-12-2006, 12:27 PM
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Hey! That's something I would do.
Old 03-12-2006, 12:31 PM
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Absolutely amazing. My Momma could do that and it'd run just fine for a life time and a day.






You let me try that and . . . . .

. . .



Thanks folks. Let's go run the timing up some more.
Old 03-13-2006, 07:23 PM
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Well, I think I've got the IP timing where it should be now. Dropped the WOT no load boost from 38ish psig to 34ish psig. EGT went from 1250/1300*F to 1150ish*F. I can tell a difference in the way it accelerates from say 55mph to 70mph. Jerks a little ore when it comes to a stop.

Should I now add more fuel?

Anyhoot, . . . .

Would anybody know if the CAV injector pump outlet fittings (to the injectors) are compatable with the VE pump outlet fittings?

The CAV IP is used on the Cummins 6BTA5.9 as seen here ~ http://www.cumminsfirepower.com/legacy_6BTA-F.html

That set of Injector lines is exactly what I want.
Old 03-13-2006, 07:39 PM
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I dont know if the CAV delivery valve threads are the same as the VE's, however, you might check and see if the aftercooled VE equipped 6BTA's used a different bend on the injector lines to accomodate the aftercooler. I cant remember.
Old 03-13-2006, 07:43 PM
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Monty, would you know where I could find on-line info a such an engine? There's a billion applications for this engine. Marine maybe?
Old 03-13-2006, 08:08 PM
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For the CAV engine? I have unlimited access to quickserve but without a serial number it is like finding a needle in a haystack.
Old 03-13-2006, 08:16 PM
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Here is a pic of a CAV equipped injector line arrangement. Hope this helps.
Attached Thumbnails Injection plumbing-ft900gl.jpg  
Old 03-13-2006, 08:28 PM
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Thanks big guy.

This is what I'm looking at:



If I can resolve the question of the threading, then it should be a matter of changing the "3-over-3" format to "6-in-a-circle".


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