cLAYH

Well I have had my new gov spring in for a week now and all seems good.

I did not get the 3200RPM spring that most people here have been getting(part number 366). It was not available at my local supplier so they ordered me a 386 spring. Not sure what the difference is but I can easily hit 3000RPM with it.

Installation was very easy(I am a HD mechanic by trade and have a fairly well stocked garage). I simply followed the directions from this site. The only trouble i had was the linkage travelled farther and would bind up on one of the tubes coming off the top of the pump. Thought I had put the linkage back together in the wrong order ar first but review of the directions confirmed that I had it correct so a minute on the grinder and the linkage was properly clearanced.

Depending on where I set the high idle screw I can hit atleast 3200RPM by puttting it to the floor in Neutral. No sign of RPM flare or runaway. Rolls up nice and drops back just as easy.

Much more power in high RPM and on the highway. One hill I always drive on used to give me trouble as the enigine would defuel in 3rd gear(automatic) before the upshift into OD. It would struggle at the shift point not able to get that 2 extra KM/H to upsift. Now it just rolls right on up.

As someone else mentioned here I did need to rebend my gas pedal as it was bottoming out on the floor boards. I also had to clearance the stops on the throttle linkage bracket. Now I can take my high idle screw completly out and get full travel right to the stop on the throttle.

The only problem I have now is that because I have so much travel on my throttle linkage my TPS is way out of range and will not allow an upshift into OD if I'm more than about 80% throttle. Of course with the new spring I can roll right upto 120KM/h in 3rd.

Thanks to all who helped with this. The instructions were a great help as well. I NEVER would have thought to replace the gov spring. Its probably made as much difference as my 16cm turbo housing. Now hopefully the weather will let up so the roads won't be so icy and I can see what it will really do!

dodgeman01

where can I get this gov spring and how much $$ will it run me. Might be a good up-grade to the old girl.
DM01

Monty

Any pump shop authorized to service Bosch components will be able to order it. The spring will run from 11-20 bucks depending on where you are at. Check in the Tech Facts under first gen for the correct part number.

vinny

Monty,

Where are the 1st Gen tech facts?
They are no longer showing-up as the the third post on this forum for me.

Vinny

Monty

Here ya go sir

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1

vinny

And thank YOU very much Sir.

Is there a reason it was removed from the top of the forum?

Has it been moved somewhere else? How can I find it in the future?

Thanks again,
Vinny

Monty

Vinny,

Admins have the option to keep a thread at the top no matter who posts a new thread. After so long, I simply unstick the thread.

To get to the Tech Facts section. Look at the DTR banner on the top of the page. You will see options for , main page, classified, tech facts, members photos etc. Simply click on the tech facts section. Once you are there. Go to "1st Gen Dodge Ram All Topics"

BearKiller

This was the only reference I had seen to a 386-spring, until I found one installed in the son's VE the other day.

He has no tachometer, yet, so I have no idea how many RPMs his will turn.

How does this 386-spring compare with the stock spring and the 366-spring ??




Never see any mention of this :

Or this :


Thanks.

bgilbert

386 spring = 2800rpm spring, not worth the trouble. On edit: a bone stock truck can turn 4k rpm neutral no load, where it fuels to is a whole nother ballgame.

GO OVRIT

I've pulled 386s and 388s out of stock pumps. I don't really know what pumps came with what, but the 366 is a big upgrade from both.

sdstriper

Like bgilbert said, don't waste your money. It is the same spring that's in the non-i/c pumps from the factory. You can achieve the same result by taking out the high idle screw but you will not change the way it fuels under load. The 366 spring has a different tension and affects the gov' different. By-the-way, I have heard the same BS lazy advice from our local diesel shop, they are not thinking about the change in performance. Thinking outside the box is not part of the job evidently.

cLAYH

WOW you pulled up an old thread!

The 386 defiantly was an improvement for me over stock but I never put in a 366 so I can't compare the two.

On my truck more throttle travel was gained by re indexing the the shaft on the pump, bending the gas pedal up and messing with the throttle bracket. Sorry don't remember the particulars as its been awhile....

Without doing this I could only get about 85% throttle, also after it was done the throttle had a larger movement range than the TPS could handle and it effectively made the TPS useless so OD was then controlled by a floor mounted dimmer switch.

sdstriper

cLAYH, you should now dive into the potentiometer stickies and ditch the TPS.

If your impressed with the spring change, I would get after a 366 spring ASAP...

sdstriper

BearKiller, it's the same spring that was in my 114 pump. I would have to guess it's the stock non i/c gov' spring.

G1625S

All the pumps I've been into had 386 springs. That includes my '89, a '90 and a '93. They're all sitting in my toolbox and were worlds apart from the 366 that replaced them.