Stamey

Just bought a 1991.5 D350, 2wd with a utility body on it. I'm gonna have to go completely through it, but to start, the ignition lock cylinder is falling out. I actually have to manually push it in to get it to engage enough to start the truck. I imagine I could just pull it out and not use it, but I wants a little security. Anyone know what needs to be done to fix this? Curiously, even though I know another fellow locally who says his 91 Ram does the same thing, I did not find anything about this in a few searches of the first gen forum.
Going out to look at the fuel system problem now.

Thanks,
Chris

Jim Lane

Chris,

There is a roll pin that secures the lock cylinder into the housing. If the cylinder has ever been replaced it might not have been installed correctly and it might have fallen out, or the switch housing might be broken.

Someone might have tried to pull the cylinder with a slide hammer as in trying to steal it.



You need to remove this pin to release the cylinder, but yours will probably not be there. When you pull out the cylinder is there a hole or is there a pin there?



This is what the replacement tumbler will look like, the pin is already installed and when installed correctly it will pop up and retain the cylinder.



This is how it retains the cylinder.
You can get a replacement lock cylinder with 2 new keys from Napa.

At this time also check your ignition switch for signs of burning.



You are going to need to get a long Security Torx bit to remove the screws from the bottom of the plastic housing to get to the switch. I have just seen these at Harbor Freight last week for about $12.00 for the entire set. Sure beats the $60.00 I paid for my set.

There will be 2 security Torx screws in the 2 small holes at the top of the housing.

The melted housing is directly related to the blower motor drawing too much current and melting the ignition switch and wiring.



You are also going to need it to remove the switch from the column



Get the lock first and follow the instruction sheet that comes with it if you have never done this before, there are several internal pieces that have to be installed correctly by turning the key to different positions or the shifter lock will not work.

It is not difficult, just take your time and read the directions first.
I hope this is of some help.
Jim

OldandRusty

Great pics...... My cylinder also fell out from time to time. The screw was missing. I found a really tough screw that fit, ground it down and inserted it with some force. A car thief tried really hard to pop the cylinder, bashed at it for some time and GAVE UP because of the hardened pin I had made. He did a real number on all of the plastic around the steering column but failed to get the truck going. I am sure it would have been stripped for the motor and I would never have seen it again.

MoparMarv

So thats what that burning on the bottom of my cover is. I just had my lock cylinder break on me so its all apart now.

Stamey

Thanks for the info, Jim. I have sec torx, but they are bits that fit into a screwdriver, and that assembly is too thick to get into the little hole, dang it. I guess I'll have to be making a trip to Harbor Freight.

Thanks,
Chris

MoparMarv

The Lock Assy's are on ebay. The cheapest I found them locally were 70 buxs and they were junk. Ebay ones are just like OEM and half the price. Worth the wait IMO. I'm putting mine in today.

Stamey

Well, finally remembered to stop at Harbor Freight to get the tamper-proof Torx bits, 3" long. Got home and found that I did NOT need them, dang it. I dunnow who's been in there before, but those were not tamper-proofs in it.
Anyway, got it apart and see a hole where the pin should be. Was going to try a roll-pin but don't have one the right size. I hate to get a new lock cylinder because it won't be keyed the same as the doors.
Any idea how much a lock smith would charge to make them all the same?

Thanks,
Chris

wannadiesel

Usually $25 will cover it.