Robofig

I have a 1992 W250 with stock springs and the stock 6" rear blocks.

I will be towing a trailer and I am short so I don't want to lift it.

If I replace the rear springs with a 4" lift spring and a 2" block can I carry the same load?

If so, which springs do you guys suggest?

Or is there a better way to do what I what.

Thanks for your time.

Rick 12v CTD

shackle drop may be easier/cheaper, I don't know.

Robofig

Won't a shackle drop change the pinion angle or is there a way to easily correct it?

Rick 12v CTD

a shackle flip would change the pinion angle. A proper shackle drop shouldn't. You'd just need fab up some new brackets or have someone do it.

I think DNRCustoms on here may have been selling them for a while. I don't know pricing if he is still. Probably not cheap but the ones he had on his truck looked real good

james1

How to lose the lift blocks is a great question. They're so large they almost look comical.

Not to confuse this thread, but if one were to remove the blocks altogether and install new 6 inch lift springs (i.e. significantly longer springs), would an anti-sway bar also be a necessity?

TIA.

THEBIGBULLY

First of all your going to alter your trucks suspension with adding a spring with a greater arch.

This will affect your ride as these springs will have greater side to side movement or sway, think of a lever, the longer it is the better it works. They will have a harder or softer affect depending on the brand you buy. Meaning your wheel travel will be greater or less than stock. You will have to do some homework to get the best possible package.

Also the higher the spring the more it will lengthen when it is compressed under load. This will affect how your shackles will preform.

Ask someone with a lifted truck to let you push and pull it over the rear tire grabbing onto the box. You will find you more often then not get more movement than you'd like.

I wouldn't be worried with pinion angle as you will just have to find 2" blocks with the correct angle or use shims

For what it's worth.

I bought new springs for each corner of my truck. Being as they were heavy duty. My tires would actually leave the ground driving down the highway and hitting large bumps. It rode like a rail car.

I took my spring packs apart and removed 3 leaves. This gave me the ride of a half ton, which was awesome but left me being unable to tow or haul anything.

I then installed a set of Firestone airbags on the rear packs.

I got them second hand for a steal and installed them. They came with an air compressor and a guage so I can adjust my ride quality from the cab as I'm driving.

AWESOME!!!!!

End state. Great ride empty, great ride loaded.

I have overloaded the truck 3 times to see if I would get failure and nothing but some slight crushed box mounts which I beefed up.

Hope this helps.

GIT-R-DONE

Why not just put in 3 inch blocks , like what is in the 89-91.5 trucks? Then only thing you might need then would be new U bolts for it.

J OOPS

Replaced my leaf springs and got rid of that stupid block. I went with 63inch Chevy 1ton 7 leaf pack, shackle flip and zero rate spring flip. Have slightly more carrying capacity, rides really smooth loaded or unloaded, increased my rear suspension travel by another 7 inches and only drops 2 1/2 inches when I hook up my 7,000lb bumper pull travel trailer. Truck has little more side sway with the trailer on it but I don't have the factory rear sway bar either, probably going to get it. Absoultly love it, Pain in the A** to set up and had to change my tail pipe to make it work. Wanted to change the tail pipe anyway cause installing a older chevy blazer fuel tank were the spare tire is for more fuel capacity.