Bookshelf

The best thing to do would be to look at someone's setup, even if its braided line, because the only thing that differs is the type of line, and the way the fittings attach. You don't usually crimp braided together for something low pressure like this, you can get aeroquip, earls, or whatever fittings that are two piece and thread together on the end of the braided. The hoses w/ the crimp end, braided or not, are usually rated for hydraulic pressures. I've always used braided instead of pushlock just because IMO it looks nicer, they're both rated pretty much the same as far as pressure. Go on Summit Racing or Jeg's site, you'll see both styles of fittings there, they both have their own house brands, plus Earls, Russell, and Aeroquip.

wannadiesel

I don't know.

BearKiller

Which one?? the non-return one, or the return-line one??

Thanks.

BearKiller

Do you mean that the Advance pump for the P-pump engine can have the spring swapped to be the correct pressure for the VE pump??

Does anyone know the correct part number for this spring, and where to get it??

How difficult is swapping the spring??

Thanks.

wannadiesel

Actually neither. I missed the fact that the max input pressure on those is only 20 psi.

You wouldn't need a return-type regulator on a system set up like I described in this thread.

banzaitoyota

The part number I posted should work. We will see as soon as my Glacier order arrives

BearKiller

Looking at the information, it states "this regulator must use a fuel return line.........fuel pressures cannot be adjusted if the fuel return line is absent."

Are you going to TEE this return line into the existing return line, after the injectors.

If not, how do you intend to handle it??

Also, a gauge will be needed after the regulator, to measure regulated pressure.

Seeing as the filter will be upstream of the regulator, will a gauge downstream of the regulator monitor the condition of the filter; or, will a gauge also be needed between the filter and regulator??

Thanks.

wannadiesel

Jeez, I didn't know he was using a bypass regulator.

Banzai, if you are going to use that style of regulator, you might as well just use Glacier's bypass setup (like I'm using), or a Swagelok adjustable check valve. Does the same thing for less money - ether item just bleeds off excess pressure into the return. I was trying to save you the hassle of plumbing a new return or tapping into the stock return when I suggested an inline regulator.

Bearkiller, with his setup he'll just have to watch for the post filter pressure to drop. Pre filter pressure will be 30 psi (or whatever it is the spring in his pump is set to) at all times, regardless of filter condition.

On the Walbro systems it's a good idea to monitor pre-filter pressure because the pump is unregulated - they can hit 100 psi if flow is restricted. So a wax plugged filter could be dramatic. Pre-filter pressure is a good way to monitor filter condition on these systems - and it doesn't need to be in the cab. An underhood gauge is fine, since you have full flow whenever the pump is running. A quick peek under the hood at idle will tell filter condition just as well as a gauge in the cab.

I'm planning to add a "safety" bypass to my setup, this will be a pre-filter bypass set for 35 psi, which will allow the Walbro to run against a plugged filter without having the pressure get too high. It's a dummy-proofing measure.

BearKiller

How are we coming on this??

Do you have it in action, yet??

banzaitoyota

Just got in from Huntsville AL after a week of school. All my parts are here. So Saturday I will start installing.

As for the return line. I will make one using the same type fittings and line I used for my new inlet line. Pics will be taken.

And yes it will be an OVERKILL system

banzaitoyota

Just installed the Glacier big line kit with my fuel pressure gage. The new piston pump is putting out in excess of 30 PSIG.

Next step is to run the bypass line and install the Regulator.

bgilbert

Better watch it, you'll be making oil soon enough. 3936320

BearKiller

For the push-lok fittings, does the hose have to be anything special??

Can plain old rubber fuel hose be used??

If plain old hose won't "push-lok" on these fittings, can it be clamped on them??

I am just sampling all my options.

Thanks for everyone's patience with me on this.

W900A

You could use just plain parts house fuel line, might need a hose clamp I prefer "breeze" clamps with the inner liner. I would suggest using real push-loc hose (push-loc is actually a Parker brand name and decent stuff) as it's a better quality hose. I use quite a bit of the Parker stuff and have great luck with it running all automotive fluids (ATF, Diesel, etc.) and get it reasonable at the local hydraulic hose and supply house.

wannadiesel

You need Push-Lok hose for clampless connections, but you can slide regular hose on and clamp it.