BearKiller

Did you get the $169 MASTER or the $154 CARTER??

Thanks.

bgilbert

FWIW, I made 443rwhp with stock fuel lines and 3936320 piston lift pump.

banzaitoyota

The $169 Master

Ace

I got the GDP kit just to eliminate any restirction between the filter and the VE. I'm gonna put that in first and see what the WOT pressure looks like before I install the piston pump. Just checking stuff one thiing at a time to figure out what's going on here. I was pleased to see I got the right pump and the hard line to the filter is 3/8. Bill pointed me to that on eBay way back when, tks...

wannadiesel

Yep, I'm running one on my truck. Pull the banjo bolt out of the filter head, pull the flare adapter out of the VE, install the AN adapters, install the Pushlock fittings on the AN adapters, shove the hose on one end, cut to length, shove it on the other end and you are done.

wannadiesel

If you want to go this route, the fittings are M12x1.5 thread. I would ditch the banjos, they are a big restriction.

banzaitoyota

ok parts are on the way

BearKiller

Is this the fitting that replaces the metal line??

http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/pr...6MJICx12x1%2E5

What is meant by -6 AN when referring to these fittings??

What would be wrong with simple 3/8" hose barbs and plain old rubber fuel line??

Where can they be found with the correct male thread??

Also, the BIG LINE KIT gets me from filter to I-Pump; what is available to replace the hard-line from lift-pump to filter??

It seems like a flexible rubber line would make lift-pump installation a lot easier.

Bear with me; I'm learning.

Thanks.

Bookshelf

-6 refers to the AN fitting size that it is, which works out to be approximately 3/8. It would probably be very hard to find hose barbs w/ the required straight thread, every one I've ever seen has had pipe threads on it. Using push lock hose or braided line makes for a much cleaner installation, and you don't have to worry about the ends of the hose eventually getting screwed up from hose clamps.

wannadiesel

What he said. I've never seen a hose barb that wasn't NPT.

The fitting you linked to is the same thread as the banjo bolts and the flare adapter in the VE. Flare adapter comes out, new fitting threads in.

You could use hose from the LP to the filter head, just get another AN adapter and an AN adapter that matches the flare fitting on the LP.

The pushlok hoses are sweet.

banzaitoyota

Fuel regulator arrived today. Still waiting on Glacier Diesel (Its only been 2 days )


I also got a small gauge for the bay, A Fuel Isolator to run a mechanical gage into the truck

BearKiller

What is the size fitting I would need at the lift-pump??



How do I "un-lock" a pushlok hose, should I need it unlocked??

Also, can I get the pushlok hoses in that COOL looking braided stainless stuff??

Thanks.

bgilbert

Pretty sure the inlet and outlet of the lift pump is 1/4"npt. Taking one of the fittings or old fuel line into a good fitting/hose shop will tell ya for sure.

To 'unlock' a pushlok hose, you cut the hose with a blade. So no, you can't use braided stainless. You'll need hose designed for pushlok fittings. If you want to use braided hose, you'll have to get it all measured up and have a shop make the hose for you, then crimp the ends on. Or buy all the tooling and crimp it yourself . The Aeroquip 'pushlok' hose I used is rated for 300psi. Once it's on the fitting, it's on there. Lube the fitting and ID of the hose with clean engine oil before pushing together.

Bear, the fitting at the inlet of the VE can be had at a good hose/fitting shop such as a Parker Hannifin or Eaton/Weatherhead shop. I hear NAPA carries E/W products now. You don't need stainless $$. I think I might have some pics of my setup in my gallery, if not here: http://www.turbodieselregister.com/u...&albumid=18647. As you see, I used a -6an x 12mmx1.5 adaptor, then a -6an 90* elbow. A 90* pushlok can be used in it's place, but my local shop was out of them, so I 'built' a 90. The adaptor can be had for less than half of what you posted earlier.

Bookshelf

If you want to take a pushlock hose off of a fitting you probably have to cut it off. But here's the thing, with pushlock or braided line(cool looking braided stainless stuff) you put an end on the hose, that end gets tightened onto the fitting you just put in your pump, they are AN flare fittings. So there's the fitting that goes in the pump that's 12x1.5 on one end, -6 male on the other, then you have the fitting you put on the end of the hose, the hose goes in one end, -6 female on the other. There shouldn't be any reason to take the end off of the pushlock hose for servicing or whatever, the only reason you'd ever have to take it off would be to put a new piece of hose on it.

bgilbert

Sounds confusing, but once you get your hands on everything, it will make sense. Don't be afraid or shy to go in to a local hydraulic shop and ask questions, that's how I learned, for the most part.