mhuppertz

Mine don't haze much at all, and with fuel conditional in the tank they don't haze. As far as mileage, if I drive resonably my milage is about the same it ever was, 17-18 combined which I think is on par with anyone. The POD's themselves won't smoke much more until you crank the fuel delivery up. Wanna says that grinding the AFC lever will give a "coal train" effect. I'm going to perform that mod as soon as soon as I can sneak in an hour or two. My wife won't understand!

Anyway, I have metric bolts and nuts that make pulling the injectors easy, so let me know. Glad to lend out anything I have!

Mark

rockjeep73

Go with the POD's, mine don't haze at all, and not even a hint of smoke under normal driving, and thats with the pump cranked. Now put your foot into it and thats another story

wannadiesel

You can tune the POD's not to smoke - much. If you don't want smoke, don't grind the AFC lever, and keep the star wheel pretty tight. Miy truck hazes a little at idle, you only notice it at night in the headlights of the car behind you. You can definitely smell it though, it'll make your eyes water when the engine is cold in the winter.

Mileage - my highway mileage didn't change when I went to POD's. Around town it dropped from mid 16's to mid 14's.

mhuppertz

I you live in a state with opacity smog check you probably don't want them unless you can fumigate a small amount of propane at idle to catalyze any unburnt dino. You will need to crank your idle down though because the propane will raise it!

NoSparkplugs

Hmmm sounds good. So these PODs only really smoke when you tromp on er'. Otherwise the smoke is a lot less? I guess I could turn the low boost screw out a bit to help with excessive smoke?

wannadiesel

Normal driving and light acceleration is clean. Step in it hard and it will smoke.

For low smoke, back the smoke screw (the one in the top of the AFC) out until it provides zero preload on the AFC cone, and set the star wheel back to stock or slightly stiffer. This ensures that you don't get AFC fuel until the turbo is welll spooled and you have air to burn the fuel. We who have ground AFC levers have to do this with our right foot when we don't want to fog the guy behind us.

NoSparkplugs

Thanks for the info Dave. Looks like I'm getting some POD's (woohoo). I just got to wait for that Alberta Government "spread the wealth check" from all the oil surplusses

DBF

You still have the adjustments you always had. You can restrict the fuel flow to where it seems the POD's aren't there if you want.

I'm adjusted to "haze" very minimally at warm idle, thanks to the Marks at Piers after installing the rebuild VE pump. It's at the point where you think it's there but you're not sure. When I decide to go somewhere quickly it gets sort of dark behind me, but not for too long since I can't keep that up for more than 20 or 30 seconds.

When the engine's cold or it's raining, or I'm at 8,500 feet, things change. Just have to set it for where I usually drive and how I usually drive.

Regards, DBF

mhuppertz

Hey DBF!
What is "KDP pinned" and how did you do the rear disc converson?

DBF

Here's the link to what the KDP is:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1

There are a couple of ways of ensuring that the dang pin doesn't get loose and fall into the gears on the front of the engine. One is called "tabbing", where you take off the front panel over the gear train, then use an bolt next to the pin to hold down a metal tab aligned over the pin. The other is called "pinning"; several jigs are available around the country that enable you to drill a hole in the right place into the top of the gear train cover. Then you tap the hole and screw in a "pin" that covers the KDP.

The note linked to above says it happens to 94-98.5 trucks. It also happens on First-Gens. Some luck out and have the KDP fall into the bottom of the case without harm, others have had real catastrophies as it gets chewed up.

Rear disc brakes:

Some folks installed these, then went back to the drum brakes because they felt the disc brakes feel mushy when you stomp on the pedal. I'm ok with it.

The kit came from a guy operating as EGR. The web site is:
http://www.egrbrakes.com/

The installation instructions can be found in the web site.

I got one of his early kits that were made from early Cadillac/Olds heavy auto disc brakes that he'd found a large stock of. After some 55,000 miles one side wore down and started grinding without warning (I should have been checking wear), requiring replacement of rotor, pad, and caliper. I had a h*** of a time finding anything (we were in Alaska towing a 5er at the time) that would fit, so I worked with Midas to find equivalent parts in their stock. I replaced both sides with Midas stuff so I can get them more easily the next time.

So I would make sure the kits EGR now supplies have a big stock of spares behind them before I installed one.

DBF