I need cost-effective turbo advice.
#1
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I need cost-effective turbo advice.
So, you may or may not have read my recent 5 speed conversion thread.
Well, I have the lagmaster 21MM housing, and now have the Getrag in the truck. I turned the pump up a few turns back when I had the auto and now my truck is a smokey beast. I don't really even see much boost until I really get on it in 4th. Below that, I smoke like a chimney going into 2nd, then at every shift she poops out a cloud.
I'm pretty sure it's just because my turbo housing is too big and I need something that will spool faster and actually use that fuel.
Problem is...I'm broke. lol.
I have a few spare parts from another car related hobby I think I can sell, but if I spend much more on the truck right now, the wife will put my nuts in a vice...and squeeeeeeze.
As an aside, my EGTs regularly get up to 1k with normal highway driving.
Anyway, was wondering if you guys could offer some advice about my best bet as well as my best bet on where to find such a thing.
Thanks!
damon
Well, I have the lagmaster 21MM housing, and now have the Getrag in the truck. I turned the pump up a few turns back when I had the auto and now my truck is a smokey beast. I don't really even see much boost until I really get on it in 4th. Below that, I smoke like a chimney going into 2nd, then at every shift she poops out a cloud.
I'm pretty sure it's just because my turbo housing is too big and I need something that will spool faster and actually use that fuel.
Problem is...I'm broke. lol.
I have a few spare parts from another car related hobby I think I can sell, but if I spend much more on the truck right now, the wife will put my nuts in a vice...and squeeeeeeze.
As an aside, my EGTs regularly get up to 1k with normal highway driving.
Anyway, was wondering if you guys could offer some advice about my best bet as well as my best bet on where to find such a thing.
Thanks!
damon
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Put up a want ad for a 12cm exhaust housing stock off a 2nd gen. I had like 4 replies after like 2 days and ended up getting a good used 12cm exhaust housing for $50 !!!
They came stock on 94-98 12 valve cummins and on 98.5-02 24 valve stick shift trucks, 12cm
They came stock on 94-98 12 valve cummins and on 98.5-02 24 valve stick shift trucks, 12cm
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Thanks for the reply, btw.
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Yea it's a straight bolt up, but you'll have to climb underneath and loosen your downpipe and slide it back about an inch or 2 becuase the exhaust snout on the 12cm is a little longer than the 21.
oh and you're gonna have to use a BFH to get the old exhaust housing off your turbo....
oh and you're gonna have to use a BFH to get the old exhaust housing off your turbo....
#7
hey-Hey!!!,
I've put 16 cm housings on to baby H1C's. The housing is quite close to the turbine, so as you snug up the four bolts holding it to the cartridge keep spinning the wheels to be sure it isn't hitting and locking it up. I did final clocking on the truck. The bolt next to the oil line makes a fine spot to push the housing off with; loosen the bolt a turn or two and drive in a #3 flat-blade and apply a hammer to the housing. Consider also some penetrating oil and heat with a propane torch while you're at it. I've not had this process fail me yet. Be careful when separating as it is quite easy to get the housing cocked and put the turbine wheel at risk of damage from hitting the housing.
A used 16 cm housing should run ~$100 and is needing no modification at all( the non-wastegated one; a WG adds ~1-1/2 inches and requires moving the exhaust pipe backwards ).
cheers,
Douglas
I've put 16 cm housings on to baby H1C's. The housing is quite close to the turbine, so as you snug up the four bolts holding it to the cartridge keep spinning the wheels to be sure it isn't hitting and locking it up. I did final clocking on the truck. The bolt next to the oil line makes a fine spot to push the housing off with; loosen the bolt a turn or two and drive in a #3 flat-blade and apply a hammer to the housing. Consider also some penetrating oil and heat with a propane torch while you're at it. I've not had this process fail me yet. Be careful when separating as it is quite easy to get the housing cocked and put the turbine wheel at risk of damage from hitting the housing.
A used 16 cm housing should run ~$100 and is needing no modification at all( the non-wastegated one; a WG adds ~1-1/2 inches and requires moving the exhaust pipe backwards ).
cheers,
Douglas
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Damon: I'm pretty happy with the quick spool on my HE351. It lights hard! I was lucky and found mine for $250, But it seems she will need a rebuild/seal soon. Anyway, it also seems the 3rd genners are finding out we like them, so they jack the price! 04.0 and earlier 3rd gens use them as a bolt on upgrade over the HE341 as well.
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LOL...well, I need to find me one first.
Aside: What do you folks do with the WG? I'm used to gas turbo cars where the wastegate is hooked up thru a grainger valve to the manifold...but it's my understanding that it works differently on our trucks.
Aside: What do you folks do with the WG? I'm used to gas turbo cars where the wastegate is hooked up thru a grainger valve to the manifold...but it's my understanding that it works differently on our trucks.
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Figure out a way to keep it shut. LOL some metal wire works nicely, i wound it nice and tight with a pair of pliers so it looks decent. Not ready to hook up the gate yet....takes forever to get to 35psi so i think it's fine.
#15
I'm still concerned over the 1000 degrees at normal highway speeds, unless i read that wrong. Even with screw turned up it shouldn't be that high.
High EGT is a result of more fuel than turbo can supply air for, but at highway speeds it should have plenty of air but with EGT at 1000 its starving. The smaller housing has little effect on suppling once the turbos spooled if anything it restricts top end air.
Mine runs at 700 with pump turned up and injectors and i don't run a intercooler. Might want to pull air tube off turbo, see if it turns freely and do it when engines hot, those bearings can seize and turbo slows down dramatically. In ant event you need to lower that temp even if you have back off the screw a bit. And you can back off that T-25 screw under that cap in the center of the 'fuel-control device' atop the pump a bit to let boost build a tad more before fuel comes on strong, that help with train smoking effect. If you turned starwheel to far that cause excess smoke as well.
High EGT is a result of more fuel than turbo can supply air for, but at highway speeds it should have plenty of air but with EGT at 1000 its starving. The smaller housing has little effect on suppling once the turbos spooled if anything it restricts top end air.
Mine runs at 700 with pump turned up and injectors and i don't run a intercooler. Might want to pull air tube off turbo, see if it turns freely and do it when engines hot, those bearings can seize and turbo slows down dramatically. In ant event you need to lower that temp even if you have back off the screw a bit. And you can back off that T-25 screw under that cap in the center of the 'fuel-control device' atop the pump a bit to let boost build a tad more before fuel comes on strong, that help with train smoking effect. If you turned starwheel to far that cause excess smoke as well.