SeanB23

Got the timing pin out by rotating the motor a little bit, it was easy. Good thing to have, that barring tool.

I have to figure out how to get the paper towel piece out, as it's in the top part of the head where the pushrods go in...I mean, it would not be good for that to get in an oil gallery and clog up. But, is there a way it could get pulled out the exhaust from in there ?

The oil cooler doesn't leak, I checked it today. Hmm, new head gasket, no leak in the oil cooler, where else could the fluids contaminate ? I didn't see any cracks whatsoever in the head or block.

Maybe the water in the oil was just left over from the original oil cooler leak ? It was a mighty big leak...

Crossy's son

Im willing to bet its the last sentence you said.leftover

Drain it all over again ($$)...new filter.... and maybe get some really cheap oil and run some quarts through it through the oil fill to kinda "flush" it ..... with the drain plug out of course..

and then put the good new oil AND filter in for the last time...

Benjamin b2

id run a small amount of ATF in there, its high detergent and would clean everything, i know mine is full of dieseldowned oil and im gonna run some atf to clean it up. ive done this in my nissan with hydralic lifters, sometimes they get plugged and start to tick, atf clears it right up and then i change the oil.

SeanB23

HoooHah ! It finally runs !



The motor flush got the water out of the oil, I haven't seen any since, but I'll probably check it again to be sure. I also drained a gallon out of the bottom of the pan after letting it sit a few days, this gallon was slightly "cloudy" looking. I'll add some Lucas to it tonight, too.

Still flushing the cooling system with whatever chemical comes in the bottle you do that with. Lots of nasty looking grayish oily water came out of the engine at the lower radiator hose.

Took it up on Portland Highway to get it up to operating temperature for the flush a minute ago...wow. I'm a gonna have to be careful, this thing is really fast with that 366 spring and the fuel screw turned way up. I mean, it's fast, like a muscle car...

Shakes somewhat when idling, I thought I saw a little fuel at the high pressure lines where they attach to the IP. This would be consistent with a little leak, right ? I'm going to inspect the entire fuel system later on or when it's light out, and tighten everything all over again, then bleed, to check for fittings that aren't completely air-tight.

Alwaysworking

good to hear, are you going to retourqe the head bolts?

if its running rough it might need the idle turned up after the leaks are fixed of course,since they might be the cause

SeanB23

When do you re-torque the head bolts, and to what foot pounds? I tightened all of them 90 degrees after further tightening the long ones to 89. Well, the last medium size bolt at the very rear of the engine got tightened another 45 or so degrees from 69 foot pounds, it's really difficult to get at. Tried flexible ratchet extensions, removing the wiper motor, everything, it's a tight spot back there.

So maybe I should turn the low idle up, this could cause the shaking if it's not up high enough ? I'm going to have to look at the fuel fittings on the IP in the daylight.

Alwaysworking

most guys are trying to go for 125 foot pounds or somewhere near the 100ftlbs area. hopefully someone else will chime in on the tq they use since i have had bad luck with gaskets.

if it idles to low it will shake, or if its missing because its not fireing right on one cylinder or more.

bigbaddiesel416

good job Sean knew you could hang in there and do it!!!!!! way to go!!!!

brainfade

Good on ya man.

I would agree with Always, shoot for about 750-800 RPM at idle. Often when you turn the fuel screw in the idle will drop and need to be adjusted.

SeanB23

Well, I've tried adjusting the idle up and down to try to find a happy medium. Maybe it's just that it's running so much stronger now, it sounds totally different.

Took it out for a drive after changing the thermostat, and it was running a lot hotter than it used to, about halfway up to 2/3 of the way up the dial after accelerating hard. It did something weird. I pulled off of the highway and the temp gauge went right down to 1/4 in about a second, I mean really quickly, right before my eyes. Never did that before.

Drained the water out yet again. No offense to those that suggested this, but I think it was a big mistake to put automatic dishwashing detergent in there, I'm having a much harder time getting rid of it than the oil I put it in there to get out in the first place. It's glommed on to the walls of the hoses, inside the radiator, everywhere. Globs of it are floating on the surface of the water every time I drain it and fill it again, like 6 or 7 times now.

I guess I need to get some more purple degreaser, that will probably get everything out of there...

BC847

If you're running stock head-bolts and installed them as per the FSM, you're done. No retorqueing.

wannadiesel

When the thermostat opens for the first time the engine gets a big gulp cold coolant. Mine does it every day.

SeanB23

I ran it without a thermostat several times to flush all the oil out. Drained the water several times a day, probably 9 or 10 times altogether. Thing is, without a thermostat in there, it would barely get warm, even if I drove it for like 4 miles. I thought without a thermostat they overheated ?

Anyway, I put a new thermostat back in today, with the little jiggle pin at 12 o Clock (it only has one.) The funky old thermostat had three jiggle pins.

Filled it with 50/50 coolant, and bled the little valve behind the thermostat housing once it began to get warm.

Now, it heats up to about 3/4 of the way up the dial, then rapidly cools to 1/4 of the way up, then heats back up to 3/4 after a few minutes on the highway, then the thermostat opens back up, and so on.

Is this back-and-forth normal for these motors ?

Got a small leak somewhere, dripping down below the lower radiator hose where it attaches to the block. Maybe the hose or it's clamp got worn out from pulling it off and on a bunch to drain oily water, who knows.

Thing runs strong, but still shakes at idle no matter what I do with the idle speed. I'm guessing this has to do with the small leak on the top of the now gutted fuel-shut off solenoid.

Crossy's son

It should run good now with the 16cm housing and the 3200 spring.

It really stinks you had to go through all that to get these two mods.

SeanB23

Oh yeah, it's fast as all get-out. I mean I'll have to watch it as I drive for a living, can't have any tickets. Does your cooling system do this back-and-forth I described ?