HX35 swap any advice?
#31
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[QUOTE=Mopar_Aaron;3221298]
I have been around logging trucks for all my life 53 years so when I installed mine. I put it in top of the downpipe just after the turbo. Same as the log trucks.
My reasoning is that If I put it in the manifold It would always be hotter than
what is normal on the big truck. This way I don't have a heart attack when the pyro reads 1500* Besides my pyrometer came with a weld on fitting.
I think it is relative to what you are used to.
My reasoning is that If I put it in the manifold It would always be hotter than
what is normal on the big truck. This way I don't have a heart attack when the pyro reads 1500* Besides my pyrometer came with a weld on fitting.
I think it is relative to what you are used to.
#32
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[QUOTE=mknittle;3221317]
Yea I get what you're saying. Seen some threads and pics and never saw anyone put it on the dp. But hey think I'll might try your way. Where can I get a pryo and gauge. Anyone else cheaper than auto meter? I need a pryo, tach, and boost gauge.
I have been around logging trucks for all my life 53 years so when I installed mine. I put it in top of the downpipe just behind the turbo. Same as the log trucks.
My reasoning is that If I put it in the manifold It would always be hotter than
what is normal on the big truck. This way I don't have a heart attack when the pyro reads 1500* Besides my pyrometer came with a weld on fitting.
I think it is relative to what you are used to.
My reasoning is that If I put it in the manifold It would always be hotter than
what is normal on the big truck. This way I don't have a heart attack when the pyro reads 1500* Besides my pyrometer came with a weld on fitting.
I think it is relative to what you are used to.
#33
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Mine is in the manifold. The reason for putting it in the manifold is quicker readings. You need quick response time with a hot rodded pump/engine. In the downpipe the pyro takes longer to react as the turbo soaks up some excess heat before the downpipe sees the drastic increase.
The cylinder temps are what you are monitoring and the closer your thermo coupler the better it is.
On big rigs, tractors etc they don't typically have quick spikes of egts as they are normally left stock.
The cylinder temps are what you are monitoring and the closer your thermo coupler the better it is.
On big rigs, tractors etc they don't typically have quick spikes of egts as they are normally left stock.
#34
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Mine is in the manifold. The reason for putting it in the manifold is quicker readings. You need quick response time with a hot rodded pump/engine. In the downpipe the pyro takes longer to react as the turbo soaks up some excess heat before the downpipe sees the drastic increase.
The cylinder temps are what you are monitoring and the closer your thermo coupler the better it is.
On big rigs, tractors etc they don't typically have quick spikes of egts as they are normally left stock.
The cylinder temps are what you are monitoring and the closer your thermo coupler the better it is.
On big rigs, tractors etc they don't typically have quick spikes of egts as they are normally left stock.
#35
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A couple years ago my dad melted a compressor wheel so quick there wasn't time to let off, he mashed the throttle to pass a slow car and the turbo went "Pop" then no power. That was empty in his 1952 Peterbilt with a big cam 2 Cummins. we always keep a spare turbo on the shelf
#36
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oh man that sucks. Those trucks are putting out some serious egt's. Speaking of egt's what range is the best for our first gens? I think about 1200 is the highest you'd want to see on the gauge?
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