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HX35 swap any advice?

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Old 01-16-2014, 09:28 AM
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Mine is a '90 so to my understanding the H1c I have is the smaller one. In that case the HX35 would have a slightly bigger compressor and a smaller turbine housing?
Old 01-16-2014, 09:48 AM
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I think the stock 1990 exhaust housing is 18cm, a little smaller than the ic 92-93 at 21cm, the compressor wheel on the h1c is smaller than the hx35. the gated hx35 is 12cm.
Old 01-16-2014, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by sooty
I think the stock 1990 exhaust housing is 18cm, a little smaller than the ic 92-93 at 21cm, the compressor wheel on the h1c is smaller than the hx35. the gated hx35 is 12cm.
Thanks that is about what I thought. When I get to the exhaust that would be a good time to swap turbos.
Old 01-16-2014, 12:43 PM
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Thanks for all the advice guys. I was going to get my turbo from a friend of mine but he ended selling, of course. That's why I was asking about upgrading the h1c. But after reading all the post and threads I am definitely going with the hx35. I'm new to Cummins so forgive me if my questions seem redundant. How much on average does a good used hx35 sell for? And which companies should I look into for my dp I was planning on doing a straight pipe/muffler delete all the way back, but trying to do it on a tight budget. again thanks for all the help guys.
Old 01-16-2014, 01:24 PM
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I got my used HX35s for $200 and under.

I'm running a 2002 one with a plate I built myself.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...e-t299516.html

If you can't find a used plate, you can get an aftermarket one from BD Power for about $60 iirc. I think they call it an exhaust brake adapter.
Old 01-16-2014, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by u2slow
I got my used HX35s for $200 and under.

I'm running a 2002 one with a plate I built myself.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...e-t299516.html

If you can't find a used plate, you can get an aftermarket one from BD Power for about $60 iirc. I think they call it an exhaust brake adapter.
I thought about making one if I happened on a turbo with the elbow. The weld on V flanges are getting easy to come by.
Old 01-16-2014, 01:40 PM
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http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...dge/model/d250

These are about as inexpensive as you are going to get. I priced tubing and I can't build one for much less.
Old 01-16-2014, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by mknittle
http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...dge/model/d250

These are about as inexpensive as you are going to get. I priced tubing and I can't build one for much less.

Yea just checked them out on summit they really are the most inexpensive that I've seen, they had the 4" turbo back kit without muffler for $264 not bad at all. So if I get an hx35 with removable boost elbow I'll have to change out to a v clamp? And an exhaust brake adapter plate? Forgive for my lack of knowledge on the subject.
Old 01-16-2014, 05:42 PM
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You want the one with the rear plate that doesn't have the elbow.

Like these. they are pretty easy to swap. we like that for a change


If you look at the first picture in u2slows link you will see the one with the elbow cast on it.
Attached Thumbnails HX35 swap any advice?-%24-kgrhqv-g0e45mp0m6-bopdggn4-g%7E%7E0_12.jpg   HX35 swap any advice?-1413.jpg  
Old 01-17-2014, 02:48 AM
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Originally Posted by mknittle
You want the one with the rear plate that doesn't have the elbow.

Like these. they are pretty easy to swap. we like that for a change


If you look at the first picture in u2slows link you will see the one with the elbow cast on it.
Thanks very helpful. So what are some key issues that I should address when doing this swap, besides dp and exhaust size and turbo with the rear plate and no elbow. Is there anything else that needs to be changed in order to do the swap? You all have been great help I appreciate it.
Old 01-17-2014, 08:47 AM
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When you have the turbo off I would at least drill and tap for the pyrometer thermocoupler. You can install a plug until your ready for the gauge.
Old 01-17-2014, 10:36 AM
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[QUOTE=gyman98;3221264]When you have the turbo off I would at least drill and tap for the pyrometer thermocoupler. You can install a plug until your ready for the gauge.[/ QUOTE]



Good point. Some people put the pyrometer thermocouple in the manifold.
I put mine in the down pipe after the turbo. That is the way the big trucks and heavy equipment is.


both ways work but in the manifold will read hotter.
Old 01-17-2014, 10:38 AM
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double post
Old 01-17-2014, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by gyman98
When you have the turbo off I would at least drill and tap for the pyrometer thermocoupler. You can install a plug until your ready for the gauge.
Yea that's what I plan on doing. Where do you have yours in the dp or manifold?
Old 01-17-2014, 11:44 AM
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[QUOTE=mknittle;3221285]
Originally Posted by gyman98
When you have the turbo off I would at least drill and tap for the pyrometer thermocoupler. You can install a plug until your ready for the gauge.[/ QUOTE]



Good point. Some people put the pyrometer thermocouple in the manifold.
I put mine in the down pipe after the turbo. That is the way the big trucks and heavy equipment is.


both ways work but in the manifold will read hotter.
I know you said both ways will work but I'm guessing putting it in the dp is more accurate. But wouldn't you want to get the reading straight from the manifold?


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