NO_SPRK

I tore my whole dash apart last night and looked over everything. I left my volt meter at work so I all I could do is poke around. A few weeks ago I took my dash apart and was looking at the connections on the hvac controller and the blower motor suddenly turned on but quit after about 10 seconds.

NotEnufGarage

I had problems with mine until I replaced the ignition switch. The whole fan current runs through there (as well as the power window current) and the contacts can get burned out.

NO_SPRK

Did you have anything else not working or just the blower?

NotEnufGarage

Both the fan and power windows were intermittent.

NO_SPRK

Just replaced my ignition switch for the hell of it (truck came with a new factory switch) and nothing!! I have power at the fuse box but noting at the switch. I'm stumped. Its getting hot and I'd like to use my a/c. I'm not much of a electrical guy so if anyone could help I'd love it!! Thanks

NO_SPRK

Okay so I got the a/c to turn on. Just a switch on the h block by the firewall that was loose. But still no fan and yes the fan is good, I have jumped it

M1Lover

On my way to PHX yesterday, I'm in the same boat. NO blower power. This has got to be a common problem. HELP! Its HOT here! H.

NO_SPRK

I'm going to try and cut open my wires at the connector for the blower motor and see if I have power there. The connector might be burnt

M1Lover

I have 12.35 VDC at the plug, and could not get the fan to turn on, wired up hot. Could it be as simple as a bad fan!?! The more I look, the more I agree with everyone who's ever said that the wiring in these trucks SUCKS. The engineer who designed that cheezy fuse panel oughta be drawn and quartered. 'Course Chrysler probably said he could spend as much on it as he wanted, long as each unit cost no more than $.75!!! H.

NO_SPRK

That means a bad fan. They are cheap. 20-30 bucks

Jim Lane

If you have 12.35 volts at the fan connector add a load to make sure you have the current, I make a load bank out of a headlamp, they are good for about 5 amps.

Your high impedance digital meter will still show voltage through high resistance like a burned connector unless you check it with a load, was this with your DMM ground lead to the connector or to the chassis ground?

Check for voltage between both of the pins in the connector with the headlamp connected into the circuit. If you still have the 12.35 volts then the motor is probably bad, when the brushes wear down they will lose contact with the commutator because they are no longer long enough and the motor will stop.

Sometimes the motor will not work and then you can hit a bump and it will start up again for a while.



Jim