How much to tighten up front end ?
#1
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How much to tighten up front end ?
So I'm about to drive 2300 miles, from Oregon to Texas. Engine is running great, the Getrag, well it still makes that groan in 4th but it works.
I replaced the front tires the other day, and now I'm noticing all kinds of new sounds from the front end. The old tires were really shot.
When I turn, especially if I have the clutch in, it makes these barely audible squeaking or slightly groaning noises. Rattles like crazy over poor roads that are really torn up, but rides smooth on new pavement.
I have neither the time nor specialized tools to repair whatever is going on with the front end...I have to be out of my place at the end of the month.
What is a fair price for a shop to "tighten up" the front end on one of these Dodges ? I understand that the Cummins motor is hell on front ends, but am I throwing good money after bad at this point ? Am I looking at like $800 or something ? I just want to make it to my destination on a very tight budget, not totally rebuild the thing.
Opinions ?
TIA.
I replaced the front tires the other day, and now I'm noticing all kinds of new sounds from the front end. The old tires were really shot.
When I turn, especially if I have the clutch in, it makes these barely audible squeaking or slightly groaning noises. Rattles like crazy over poor roads that are really torn up, but rides smooth on new pavement.
I have neither the time nor specialized tools to repair whatever is going on with the front end...I have to be out of my place at the end of the month.
What is a fair price for a shop to "tighten up" the front end on one of these Dodges ? I understand that the Cummins motor is hell on front ends, but am I throwing good money after bad at this point ? Am I looking at like $800 or something ? I just want to make it to my destination on a very tight budget, not totally rebuild the thing.
Opinions ?
TIA.
#2
I think you should do a little "checking out" before you condem the whole thing. There are lots of "weak" points to the steering and suspension of these trucks. But you may find there is something quick and simple that you could fix up. Most shops are gonna want to rebuild the whole thing and that will put the price way out there!
See if you can't give it a once over and see whats really wrong with it and report back.
See if you can't give it a once over and see whats really wrong with it and report back.
#4
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it ran me about $1300 for almost all new parts and i did all the labor myself to rebuild the front end. tie rods, center link, spindles, steering knuckles and lower control arms are originals. i bought new upper and lower ball joints, springs, shocks, wheel seals, idler arm, upper and lower control arm bushing kits. moog are the only parts that are recommended for our trucks because they last a long time. you'll notice the price is a little high for the parts but you get what you pay for!
93flatbed said, give everything a look-over. grease all the steering linkage points and ball joints and see where that puts you.
93flatbed said, give everything a look-over. grease all the steering linkage points and ball joints and see where that puts you.
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Look in the stiky...I have fixed every loose/worn part on my front end from the info there. Mine only ran me:
132 bearings/Dana socked/seals
17 coupler rebuild kit (big difference)
tighten up steering box free
132 bearings/Dana socked/seals
17 coupler rebuild kit (big difference)
tighten up steering box free
#6
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Darn, $1300 to $149, that's quite a spread.
The problem is, I'm running out of time and don't even have a tie-rod puller...
thanks so far...
The problem is, I'm running out of time and don't even have a tie-rod puller...
thanks so far...
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Dude, buy the tools. There isnt a lot that can go wrong under there.
Tie rod pullers are cheap. Way cheaper than what a shop is gonna charge you. Just my opinion.
Get somebody to turn the wheel back and forth while you watch whats goin on under there. You can check the steering coupler by yourself... Wheel bearings are quick and easy. Tape measure toe in gets it close enough to drive for a month or 2 as long as your meticulous about it.
Kingpins with stock tires last forever as long as they have been greased.
Do your axle shafts spin when your hubs are unlocked? What condition are your stub shaft u-joints in?
Shock bushings? Sway bar or sway bar end links?
If you absolutely have to take it to a shop, at least you will know what is bad and what isnt so if they try and gouge you, you got a little defense...
Tie rod pullers are cheap. Way cheaper than what a shop is gonna charge you. Just my opinion.
Get somebody to turn the wheel back and forth while you watch whats goin on under there. You can check the steering coupler by yourself... Wheel bearings are quick and easy. Tape measure toe in gets it close enough to drive for a month or 2 as long as your meticulous about it.
Kingpins with stock tires last forever as long as they have been greased.
Do your axle shafts spin when your hubs are unlocked? What condition are your stub shaft u-joints in?
Shock bushings? Sway bar or sway bar end links?
If you absolutely have to take it to a shop, at least you will know what is bad and what isnt so if they try and gouge you, you got a little defense...
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#11
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Dude, buy the tools. There isnt a lot that can go wrong under there.
Tie rod pullers are cheap. Way cheaper than what a shop is gonna charge you. Just my opinion.
Get somebody to turn the wheel back and forth while you watch whats goin on under there. You can check the steering coupler by yourself... Wheel bearings are quick and easy. Tape measure toe in gets it close enough to drive for a month or 2 as long as your meticulous about it.
Kingpins with stock tires last forever as long as they have been greased.
Do your axle shafts spin when your hubs are unlocked? What condition are your stub shaft u-joints in?
Shock bushings? Sway bar or sway bar end links?
If you absolutely have to take it to a shop, at least you will know what is bad and what isnt so if they try and gouge you, you got a little defense...
Tie rod pullers are cheap. Way cheaper than what a shop is gonna charge you. Just my opinion.
Get somebody to turn the wheel back and forth while you watch whats goin on under there. You can check the steering coupler by yourself... Wheel bearings are quick and easy. Tape measure toe in gets it close enough to drive for a month or 2 as long as your meticulous about it.
Kingpins with stock tires last forever as long as they have been greased.
Do your axle shafts spin when your hubs are unlocked? What condition are your stub shaft u-joints in?
Shock bushings? Sway bar or sway bar end links?
If you absolutely have to take it to a shop, at least you will know what is bad and what isnt so if they try and gouge you, you got a little defense...
thanks to everyone so far though.
#13
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Well, back to O'Reily to get their grease gun to work properly...for the second time now. This time it won't close on the grease tube. Maybe a proprietary grease brand thing, I dunno...
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Drunken employee, Friday afternoon at the factory, intentional sabotage, who knows...
Hey, all the Powerbuilt stuff is half price at Schucks while they change over to O'Reilly's, so I guess you get what you pay for.