Yes.

It is possible my torque converter is on its way out. What are the other symptoms of a worn out torque converter?

So here are the new ideas I got from this thread:

1. Timing
2. Water injection
3. Aux engine oil cooler
4. New torque converter

Any other ideas?

Do you have a transmission temperature gauge? how hot is the fluid getting when pulling hills?

if you have the factory F2F oil cooler your torque converter could easly superheat your coolant to over 300*

Did you keep the 1/2" cooler lines when you installed your transmission?

No exhaust restriction?

Since I installed a big aux plate and fin trans cooler and fan, 1/2 " lines, my trans temps on hard climbs have been staying around 210, measured next to the factory temp sensor. I also have the Derale oversized pan. The temps used to go around 260 hot before the cooler upgrades.

Still have the stock F2F exchanger. Should I bypass it?

I'm wondering if my temp gauge is accurate, what the 4 "normal" ticks at, and the overheat tick. Wanna find out but I hate to stop to measure when I'm climbing a grade :-) maybe it's time to get a digital engine temp gauge.

I'm leaning towards an engine oil cooler install, to start to mitigate the situation.

What do you all think? What are the drawbacks?

After rereading and seeing a couple newer things would have to think you have either an airflow issue, radiator issue, or cooling system is just plain undersized for that application. I would be leaning towards airflow, when you drop out of OD the engine(and fan) speed come up pulling far more air through the cooler stack. You mentioned the air flow path into the radiator area and it sounds pretty open hows flow on the way out? Do you have any pictures of the cooling system set up?

EDIT: I noticed you have the 47RH not a 46RH so as long as the lock up is working that should really help with how much heat the trans makes over the 46RH and its lack of lockup. Also what radiator are you running?

A too small of a radiator...blocked air entry to rad. has it always run hot since the conversion or is this new?..Mark

I see in one of your posts you have the engine cooling plumbed into a hot water tank or heating system. Is there an auxullary pump to handle the extra coolant flow.
In marine applications which are set up with the additional cooling line the original engine cooling pump does not have the capability on its own to circulate through the entire system.
In such cases an inline pump is added to give extra flow to the entire system.
Do you have shutoffs and bypasses on the in and out lines to the additional heaters etc, if so shut them off and use the bypass and check the temperture under normal load on the engine water pump.
If the hot wwater tank or any other accesories are above the level of the header tank that will also give you problems again due to the capacity of the engine cooling pump.
Del

i'm running the oem radiator for a 93 ctd. New from rockauto.

I thought the oem radiator was sufficient for a 12k# rig. At this late stage, it's gonna be difficult to retrofit a bigger or odd sized radiator.

It always ran on the hot side after the conversion when doing a long hard
climb.

The only stuff blocking the radiator are the intercooler, ac condenser, and aux trans cooler with fan., the grille is pretty wide open.

If the rad is undersized, i wanna look for a way to compensate or supplement it. I think airflow might be the problem - the doghouse design - but I can't do much about it, other than use external devices to aid the airflow and/or lower the temps.

How about installing down-facing exhaust fans underneath both rear corners of the doghouse? The fans would blow trapped hot air down to the sides of the trans bell housing.

does the new radiator look thick like what the diesel has? I remember reading something about auto parts stores handing out the wrong one saying it was a diesel application. I think those were quite thin though.

Just a dumb thought, is the aux trans cooler fan spinning the correct direction? I've seen overheating problems from someone putting the engine fan on the wrong way.

I agree with your thought of putting in an actual temperature gauge to see what your temps really are, might just be normal for the given size and aerodynamics. I'd put that in before adding anything else for fans or coolers.

Here's a photo of whats under the dog house. The front third is boxed 14 inches high; the rear 2/3 is boxed 6 inches high.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attac...nsidebay3a.jpg

Coolers behind the grille. Note the white partition above the coolers that separates the hot air in the doghouse from the incoming air.

Http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/membe...18610-rv1a.jpg

Yes, I'm sure the rad is for diesel, same old and new. Both crossflow, same number of cores, same dimensions. My old rad probably was ok since the new one did not improve the temps.

The fan blows into the cooler. I don't see why a front mounted fan would blow otherwise. Maybe it's blowing all the trans heat into the radiator :-) it'll probably help if i relocate the tranny cooler somewhere.